Nasa Burner Leaking Gas

[oldbugman]

yep, works for me

 

[Guest Lurker]

NRB,

Any gas fitter worth his salt should be able to fix your NASA in 5 minutes. A small business working from home is usually cheaper & more obliging.

:beer:

I'm not sure Pete. The metal on the thread of that gland nut is very thin, and once it lets go the thread is gone. I guess they could find a screw in fitting with no valve to match though.

Even when the valve at the burner wasnt leaking, I never used it, just leave it open and get complete control using the reg at the bottle. Ive also thrown away that air plate, and I can take it down to a simmer just using the reg. The araldite is still holding fine.

 

[NRB]

Can you try opening the needle valve fully then adjust the flame with the reg?

Nope, it leaks even more and burns at the knob :huh:

I'm not sure Pete. The metal on the thread of that gland nut is very thin, and once it lets go the thread is gone. I guess they could find a screw in fitting with no valve to match though.

Yep, so I've found out. It leaks even worse now than before I touched it!

The araldite is still holding fine.

That's reassuring. Pity Bunnings isn't open today.

 

[domonsura]

That's reassuring. Pity Bunnings isn't open today.

It isn't? Damn, there goes some of my plans. I HATE long weekends, they give you all this time to get projects done, and then everything closes on ya....

 

[NRB]

According to my old man, Bunnings IS open today! My brew plans have been shot down by injury though

 

[TidalPete]

I'm not sure Pete. The metal on the thread of that gland nut is very thin, and once it lets go the thread is gone. I guess they could find a screw in fitting with no valve to match though.

Even when the valve at the burner wasnt leaking, I never used it, just leave it open and get complete control using the reg at the bottle. Ive also thrown away that air plate, and I can take it down to a simmer just using the reg. The araldite is still holding fine.

I must have been lucky GL? When my gland worked loose the thread didn't strip. :super:

NRB, have you tried a few turns of Threadseal over the stripped thread? That might still do the trick if there is a little thread left to grip?

:beer:

 

[NRB]

TP I can't even see any thread. Here's a picture of what it looks like behind the knob.



As you can see, there's very little room to move behind the knob. Is it possible to remove it easily? If I can get better access, I can do a better job. I'm leaning towards the Araldite seal at the moment anyway...

 

[domonsura]

According to my old man, Bunnings IS open today! My brew plans have been shot down by injury though

Yep, gave up on my bunnings plans and gave into a day with the missus shopping instead.......drove past bunnings on the way home and WTF!?!?!?! It's OPEN. Oh well.....went to Ikea and got some dinky little sealing glass bottles for yeast keepers.......and some wicked 'ladies waist' glasses for $6.90 a 6 pack, really good deal! bought heaps of them.

 

[TidalPete]

TP I can't even see any thread. Here's a picture of what it looks like behind the knob.
View attachment 12038View attachment 12039
As you can see, there's very little room to move behind the knob. Is it possible to remove it easily? If I can get better access, I can do a better job. I'm leaning towards the Araldite seal at the moment anyway...

NRB,

Look closely directly behind the knob & you will see the hexagon head of the gland nut. There is little room for a spanner behind the knob I know. If you do not have the correct sized spanner then make one up out of a scrap piece of 1/8" mild steel or similar. 15 minutes work, max. Drill a hole & file the flats to fit.

It is only a fine thread so go softly, softly & don't forget the Thread-seal.

:beer:

 

[NRB]

I knew the nut you were talking about as that's what I tightened. I pulled it apart TP and have attached a picture for all to see. I originally thought that the thread was broken when it came apart.

I smeared the threads with Araldite, screwed it together and sealed the outside with Araldite. Fired up the burner about 30mins later and although it was still leaking, it was much improved and didn't trip the Gasmate.

I can't get over how fine that threaded piece is!

 

[TidalPete]

I knew the nut you were talking about as that's what I tightened. I pulled it apart TP and have attached a picture for all to see. I originally thought that the thread was broken when it came apart.

I smeared the threads with Araldite, screwed it together and sealed the outside with Araldite. Fired up the burner about 30mins later and although it was still leaking, it was much improved and didn't trip the Gasmate.

I can't get over how fine that threaded piece is!

View attachment 12045

Perhaps, as Araldite needs 24 hours to obtain maximum curing, the pressure of the gas forced it's way through after only 30 minutes of curing??

:beer:

 

[NRB]

After 2 minutes of use it was sealed. I even have full control of the knob. Interesting, huh?

I knew Araldite needed about 16 hours for curing, but its initial set of 90 seconds seems to have been of reasonable strength. I needed to brew... you know how it is... some people do heroin, I get a hit out of smelling the malty sweet wort!

 

[TidalPete]

After 2 minutes of use it was sealed. I even have full control of the knob. Interesting, huh?

I knew Araldite needed about 16 hours for curing, but its initial set of 90 seconds seems to have been of reasonable strength. I needed to brew... you know how it is... some people do heroin, I get a hit out of smelling the malty sweet wort!

The heat from the boil must have done it :super:

:beer:

 

[oldbugman]

I've got boiler plants at work pushing 100L/s of 70 odd deg water round buildings, you should see the pipe work leak on this sucker when it's been off and has cooled down to 30deg.

 

[TidalPete]

I've got boiler plants at work pushing 100L/s of 70 odd deg water round buildings, you should see the pipe work leak on this sucker when it's been off and has cooled down to 30deg.

Tell them they need to apply "Stag" to the joints & you may get a bonus? (If it works???)


:beer:

 

[blackbock]

Seeing as it looks like you were able to unscrew the section which the knob goes into- it appears that there is a thread on one end, if you have any more problems, I would try to ditch the thing altogether. Replace the knob with a direct connection and consider adding a needle valve onto the other end of the hose - it's a much more convenient location anyway.