My New Mash Tun

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sama

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made a new mashtun out of an old keg cut down to 36l for single batches (infusion),check it out! Insulated with a removable jacket of aircell insulation i scored from a site.Drains via a skin fitting through the bottom,false bottom held in place with 2 welded in 5mm bolts and wingnuts.Couple bits of stainless angle for legs welded on.Bottom insulated with yoga mat,held firmly in place with foam backing rod.Holds temp great.. edit: the lid is off my 50 liter alluminium kettle,just had to flare the lip of the keg all around with a shifter a little,fits like a glove.

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Good bit of kit mate.............just makes me feel even more inadequate when I see blokes that can build stuff like this. Two left thumbs I'm afraid :angry:
 
Nice work Sama! Looks awesome! Are you thinking you should bracket the thread at the rim of the keg/pot/vessel?

Also, what are the other 2 holes gonna do? - I may be seeing wrong but is there not 2 other holes on the inside view?





Edit: Making words be... well, words.
 
Looks great!

I used to have a bottom draining mash tun (still have it, but hardly use it anymore), and my only gripe with it was that the drain sometimes blocked up with grain particles when lautering, which was a real pita as I had to blow into the hot ball valve to unblock it, only to have it blocked again a few minutes later.

A good way to prevent this is to put a few of those stainless steel pot scrub thingies between your falsie and the drain. And to drain the tun sloooowlyy.

Good luck with it, am sure it all runs well.
 
... Insulated with a removable jacket of aircell insulation i scored from a site. ...
Sorry to be a possible spoilsport - and a lot of people seem to use it - but I
wonder if aircell is the best way to insulate brewing vessels.

Aircell works mainly by reflecting radiant heat away (SEE) but in the brewing
environment, the aircell is in direct contact with the vessel we're trying to keep
heat in so conductive heat can transfer to the aircell and then radiate away as
if the aircell was not there at all.

I think nitrile rubber would be better since it actually blocks (or slows down)
conductive heat.
 
The holes are plated and welded up.the aircells prob not the best,and it does transfer heat,it gets a little warm.the campmat on the bottom,i believe is better.it remains cool to touch.overall 1deg c lost over the hour has me not concerned.if its a prob in winter weather i reckon ill go all campmat.its cost for insulative performance is awesome.
 
turn the aircell around so the reflective face is against the vessel,it will work better by .....cheers.....spog
The holes are plated and welded up.the aircells prob not the best,and it does transfer heat,it gets a little warm.the campmat on the bottom,i believe is better.it remains cool to touch.overall 1deg c lost over the hour has me not concerned.if its a prob in winter weather i reckon ill go all campmat.its cost for insulative performance is awesome.
 
I'm impressed.

You've given me some ideas. I have the stuff lying around to do one similar. I just need to bribe my boiler maker bro in law to do all the hard work.

Lucky for me he loves a beer.
 
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