My First Meads

[Airgead]

I've been frantically reading Ken Schramm's book, and finding answers to much I have asked, and planned to ask.
However.
He gives his adding yeast routine as (roughly):
1. rehydrate the yeast.
2. pitch it.
3. after a short period mix/swirl the bottle.

Tonight I looked at my latest batch of leatherwood. The yeast had clearly not mixed, (as I had decided - prior to reading in Kens book - to try it differently)
The reaction was going well, a huge krausen had formed, and the top inch and a half of must was a lighter colour.
As I hadn't swirled it, I decided I should.
Now it's a consistant colour.
Most of the Kraussen disappeared.
BUT
I'm getting 1 bubble every 3 minutes.

The other musts I had made with this yeast pitched, are going great guns, the fastest fermentation I've seen so far. They did however have a larger amount of must (up to the shoulder) and also were of lower SG.

is this an HSM? or is this normal and should I leave it.
It's REALLY early days, I know, but is what I did wrong, should I be molly-coddling and babysitting this batch? Or just ignore it cos "she'll be right"? After all it is honey, it's unlikely it'll be 'apples' (ba-dum tish!)

She'll be right. Bubble frequency is a very poor indicator of fermentation activity.

It could be that the main fermentation is already finished and its just cleaning up the dregs or you could have knocked a bunch of gas out of solution when swirling so the gas is re-dissolving and not being expelled.

Once the yeast is in the vessel it will pretty much self mix in my experience. Swirling at the beginning will make it happen faster but after a few hours the yeast will be evenly distributed in suspension anyway.

Treat mead carefully... but you don't need to molly-coddle it. Yeast is pretty hardy stuff. The only thing you really need to watch is oxygen.

Cheers
Dave

 

[KudaPucat]

She'll be right. Bubble frequency is a very poor indicator of fermentation activity.

It could be that the main fermentation is already finished and its just cleaning up the dregs or you could have knocked a bunch of gas out of solution when swirling so the gas is re-dissolving and not being expelled.

Excellent.
I think this is what happened. It did go beserk and spit water out the lock when I swirled it.
It's WAY to young to have finished fermenting. It would be great if we could ferment in 48hrs... I'd be drunk already ;-)
Whilst we're on the topic of bubble frequency... what is a good indication of fermentation? (non-contact indication)
Also... 2 of my meads are bubbling small bubbles that cling to the bottom of the lock. These are high frequency.
The rest empty the entire tube between the two bubbles in one big "Galumph!" Is there any reason for this?
Is it the yeast I used? Is it because these bottles were filled past the shoulder and there's less gas?
This is not really important, but I'm interested.

Once the yeast is in the vessel it will pretty much self mix in my experience. Swirling at the beginning will make it happen faster but after a few hours the yeast will be evenly distributed in suspension anyway.

It was over 24 hrs, and the top inch and a half was a distinctly different colour to the rest. There was a big kraussen - something I've not yet seen on my meads. Is Kraussen a good sign? or just a sign of fermentation?

Treat mead carefully... but you don't need to molly-coddle it. Yeast is pretty hardy stuff. The only thing you really need to watch is oxygen.

By "watch oxygen" you mean ensure it doesn't get in? Or that there is sufficient at the start of the batch?

 

[Airgead]

Excellent.
I think this is what happened. It did go beserk and spit water out the lock when I swirled it.
It's WAY to young to have finished fermenting. It would be great if we could ferment in 48hrs... I'd be drunk already ;-)
Whilst we're on the topic of bubble frequency... what is a good indication of fermentation? (non-contact indication)
Also... 2 of my meads are bubbling small bubbles that cling to the bottom of the lock. These are high frequency.
The rest empty the entire tube between the two bubbles in one big "Galumph!" Is there any reason for this?
Is it the yeast I used? Is it because these bottles were filled past the shoulder and there's less gas?
This is not really important, but I'm interested.


It was over 24 hrs, and the top inch and a half was a distinctly different colour to the rest. There was a big kraussen - something I've not yet seen on my meads. Is Kraussen a good sign? or just a sign of fermentation?


By "watch oxygen" you mean ensure it doesn't get in? Or that there is sufficient at the start of the batch?

The only really accurate indication is checking the gravity and watching it drop. After a while you geta feel for it but the gravity is the only sure way.

Every fermentation is a little different. Some throw a big kraussen some don't. It depends on the foam stability of the liquid, the strain of yeast, the weather, position of mars in aquarius... Mostly the foam stability and the yeast strain though.

Oxygen - yes to both. You need enough to start with but once fermentation goes anaerobic and starts producing alcohol, oxygen contact should be kept to an absolute minimum.

Cheers
Dave

 

[KudaPucat]

Thanks Dave,
I don't want to be theiving out enough for my hydrometer everytime I get inquisitive...
Has anubody ever checked the progress of their fermentation simply by using a set of scales?
if it's only delta g surely this would be an effective non-contact solution?
I mean we're looking for at least a 50g/l change over the whole fermentation. in a 1 gal demi, that's a scale that needs to read from 6kg down to 5kg (1.20 - 1.00 sg)
Unfortunately I don't have one, but is this a worthy enough idea to go out and purchase one?

 

[Airgead]

Thanks Dave,
I don't want to be theiving out enough for my hydrometer everytime I get inquisitive...
Has anubody ever checked the progress of their fermentation simply by using a set of scales?
if it's only delta g surely this would be an effective non-contact solution?
I mean we're looking for at least a 50g/l change over the whole fermentation. in a 1 gal demi, that's a scale that needs to read from 6kg down to 5kg (1.20 - 1.00 sg)
Unfortunately I don't have one, but is this a worthy enough idea to go out and purchase one?

You know... that's a pretty darn good idea. Once the yeast has stopped dividing and the liquid is saturated with co2 any change in gravity will be reflected in a change of mass.

If you have the right sort of scales that give it a go. My kitchen scales only go to 5kg and I don't think the bathroom scales will be accurate enough.

Good thinking 99.

Cheers
Dave

 

[KudaPucat]

OK. Buy something like this: scales on ebay

Take your SG before pitching yeast.
Take your weight immediately after pitching yeast.

divide SG/kg

enter this factor as the 'unit price'

now the scales will read SG for you in 'total price'

all for $35 delivered.

If you want more accuracy (the scales only give 2 decimals, as they're designed for cash) then multiply the factor by 10 ot 100 and remember that the result will be 10 or 100 times higher.

I think I'm going to buy one and give it a try.
This scale will handle 1 gal - 7 gal (4 litres - 28 litres)
If it works, I may just buy one for each of my (as yet non-existant) demijons and carboys.

 

[Airgead]

OK. Buy something like this: scales on ebay

Take your SG before pitching yeast.
Take your weight immediately after pitching yeast.

divide SG/kg

enter this factor as the 'unit price'

now the scales will read SG for you in 'total price'

all for $35 delivered.

If you want more accuracy (the scales only give 2 decimals, as they're designed for cash) then multiply the factor by 10 ot 100 and remember that the result will be 10 or 100 times higher.

I think I'm going to buy one and give it a try.
This scale will handle 1 gal - 7 gal (4 litres - 28 litres)
If it works, I may just buy one for each of my (as yet non-existant) demijons and carboys.

Its certainly worth a try.

Cheers
Dave

 

[KudaPucat]

OK Things are suddenly happening.

Batch No 1011210 has drastically slowed bubbling.
I took a sample and tested the gravity. So here's the data: *CG is current gravity at the date this was written

Prepared: 21/11/10
Volume: 1 gal
Style: Dry Show Mead
Yeast EC-1118
Honey: CB10 - mountain honey with gum, teatree, lavender and orchard influence.
Nutrient: 1 tsp DAP - added on day 4
OG: 1.085
CG: 1.000
ABV: 12% --not too sure on this calc.


So... does this mean it's time to rack?
I tasted it.
Wine like bouquet.
Rather dry, but not offensive.
Nasty twang of some sort - hopefully time will fix this
Definite feeling of Lemon.

What do I do now?

 

[KudaPucat]

Oh. And the tasting induced a sneezing fit. Of all things!
Please tell me I'm not allergic to mead!!!!

 

[Airgead]

OK Things are suddenly happening.

Batch No 1011210 has drastically slowed bubbling.
I took a sample and tested the gravity. So here's the data: *CG is current gravity at the date this was written

Prepared: 21/11/10
Volume: 1 gal
Style: Dry Show Mead
Yeast EC-1118
Honey: CB10 - mountain honey with gum, teatree, lavender and orchard influence.
Nutrient: 1 tsp DAP - added on day 4
OG: 1.085
CG: 1.000
ABV: 12% --not too sure on this calc.


So... does this mean it's time to rack?
I tasted it.
Wine like bouquet.
Rather dry, but not offensive.
Nasty twang of some sort - hopefully time will fix this
Definite feeling of Lemon.

What do I do now?

OK... The twang should age out. Meads really do need some waiting time.

Your gravity has hit 1 so you can be pretty sure fermentation has finished now. You can rack if you like and that will help it clear faster. I usually don't though but wait and rack once it has cleared (or started to clear) in the primary. The more often you rack, the more chance there is of oxygenation (unless you use sulphates). If you rack now you will certainly need a second racking. if you wait you might get away with just one. Up to you though.

If it were me though, I'd wait a while till it clears. If you want to hurry things along you coudl try crashing it in the fridge to get the yeast to floc out sooner.

Cheers
Dave

 

[KudaPucat]

I'm going to rack into 2 secondaries, and am hoping to rack at least one over the fresh plums in the street.
Therefore i think I will rack now, I've also heard EC-1118 can give off flavours if left on the lees, so I'm going the impatient route ;-)

 

[Airgead]

I'm going to rack into 2 secondaries, and am hoping to rack at least one over the fresh plums in the street.
Therefore i think I will rack now, I've also heard EC-1118 can give off flavours if left on the lees, so I'm going the impatient route ;-)

If you are going to rack onto fruit that will be OK and I'd do that now before the yeast settles. What you want is the yeast to pick up and start fermenting the sugars in the fruit. This also sucks up any oxygen that was introduced so you should be safe from oxidisation. Freeze, thaw and crush the plums first for maximum yield. you may also want to wash in your sanitiser of choice to kill off any wild yeast - that white bloom on plums = yeast.

I have found EC1118 fine when left on lees for up to 5 months. Autolysis happens slower in a homebrew setting than commercial as the vessels are smaller and there isn't so much hydrostatic pressure on the cells. It can still happen but it takes much longer. Fine if you want to take the time and let it clear in the primary. Keeping it cool also helps delay autolysis.

If you are racking ointo 2 secondaries, watch the head space in the one with no fruit. You want as little head space as possible. You can use marbles or somethign (well cleaned) to fill the volume and minimise the head space. The more head space the more oxygen sitting above the mead and the more chance of oxidisation. If you have a kegging setup you can also purge with co2 (careful with glass carboys and pressure though... that can get ugly real quick).

Cheers
Dave

 

[Chookers]

what is the best Honey to water ratio (honey/kg:water/L), to produce a good mead with excellent body (I'm not talking about syrup or sickly sweetness)

I did a batch of mead and think I didnt add enough honey initially S.G 1080- F.G 1000), its currently aging with oak chips but was very watery when I had a taste.

I want to try again as I have 3kg of Woolly Butt honey just sitting here (it wants to be Mead)

 

[Airgead]

what is the best Honey to water ratio (honey/kg:water/L), to produce a good mead with excellent body (I'm not talking about syrup or sickly sweetness)

I did a batch of mead and think I didnt add enough honey initially S.G 1080- F.G 1000), its currently aging with oak chips but was very watery when I had a taste.

I want to try again as I have 3kg of Woolly Butt honey just sitting here (it wants to be Mead)

Adding more honey won't generally add body. All it will do is make the finished mead stronger. The body comes from things like tannins and other compounds. These often come from aging, especially if you can add some of them through oaking first. Honey naturally has lower levels of these compounds than grapes so meads will generally be a lighter body than wine. It will improve with aging though as the compounds bind together.

The only way adding extra honey will add body is to add so much that you are left with residual sugars.

The type of honey is also important - darker honeys often have more of these useful compounds in them than lighter honeys. They take longer to age because they don't taste so good until they all age together but once aged they give a very good bodied mead. Lighter honeys give a quicker drinking mead but one that is light in body.

Cheers
Dave