My brew controller box

[MastersBrewery]

I think a line of flashing LEDs along the bottom would finish it off


Looks bloody awesome!!!

 

[Hawko777]

I am impressed with everyones effort in building their own control boxes.
I too have a basic pid controlled HLT with a HERMS setup.

It seems some people have spent considerable money on their controllers and I was wondering whether it would of been worthwhile buying a BCS-462 control module as the brains to your box. It links to your ipad/ipod/touch screen/android/laptop etc and can be monitored from anywhere.
I am seriously looking at this as an option but would like to hear your opinions as the pro's and con's of pid vs BCS-462 or Brewtroller.
You guys are inspirational for what you've achieved and your experiences would really help someone like me.

cheers

 

[pedleyr]

With BCS and Brewtroller you still need the exact same parts as a "normal" PID setup, apart from the PID itself - you need an enclosure, SSRs, plugs, elements etc. BCS just controls it all instead of the PID(s).

Well actually you could do it without switches for every element and pump on the panel if you wanted to, but again that's the same with a normal PID system if you wanted, in both instances you just surrender the ability to control the system manually via those switches.

Depending on your setup BCS may be cheaper but for most it probably won't be.

 

[Hawko777]

Thanks Pedleyr

I do like the idea of the BCS462 controller and have seen control boxes with just a few switches.
The switches were 3 ways, off, auto, manual so you can interupt a process if needed.
I have a few spare computers I can use to link up but wifi enabled will allow me to do everything via my tablet and or phone.

I would like to know if you can use remote sensors on dispensing and fermenting fridges. Especially since they are not in the same room.
Now to just figure out what I need and purchase.

Keep up the good work

 

[mrsupraboy]

Here is a rear view showing the XLR connectors for the probe sockets.

rearbrewcontroller.jpg

And finally here it is running. The mash Pid isn't connected yet as I only just realised the probe Kev sent me has a male XLR connector and so are my sockets. So I have a female connector I will have to solder on.

pids light.jpg

Question

How come you used to different types of pids. Is it cause only 1 really needs to be programmable. Or something else

And also why are people using heat sinks. Can the pids adjust the elements via a heatsink or are the heatsinks for manual control of the elements.

 

[Camo6]

SSR's get hot. Heat decreases efficiency and lifespan. Heatsinks disperse the heat.

 

[mrsupraboy]

And how is the heat sink wired up. Is it always powered

 

[Camo6]

Nah. Just a chunk of alloy with fins. Heat energy from the ssr is transferred to the heatsink (with the help of thermal paste) and the fins help dissipate the heat preferably outside the box. Like the block of an air cooled 2 stroke. An alternative is to use internal fans to blow across the ssr like some in this thread.

 

[spog]

Nah. Just a chunk of alloy with fins. Heat energy from the ssr is transferred to the heatsink (with the help of thermal paste) and the fins help dissipate the heat preferably outside the box. Like the block of an air cooled 2 stroke. An alternative is to use internal fans to blow across the ssr like some in this thread.

As Camo6 said,the heat sink with thermal paste helps dissipate the heat,but the paste works best when it is used with a metal enclosure ? Although it can be used in a plastic enclosure ( again my understanding).
The easiest way to make sure the guts of the control panel is kept cool,and not having to worry about sizing a heat sink is to use an old 12volt computer fan that is hooked into you control panel so it is running whenever the control panel is fired up.
The fan can be mounted inside or out,with vent holes or screens for circulation.
My 2 cents worth.

 

[Camo6]

Spog, my SSR's screw straight to the underside of the heatsink allowing good contact with the paste. Then I cut holes slightly larger than the SSR's into the enclosure so the heatsinks could be screwed to the enclosure. The only place there is paste is between ssr and heatsink. Which is good as it's nasty shit and not good to get on your skin!
I wanted to avoid running a stepdown transformer plus fans, vents etc for a few reasons but mainly because I like the look of the heatsink on top. It's like a little toupe!

 

[QldKev]

Question

How come you used to different types of pids. Is it cause only 1 really needs to be programmable. Or something else

And also why are people using heat sinks. Can the pids adjust the elements via a heatsink or are the heatsinks for manual control of the elements.

Bit of terminology

pid is the controller
SSR is a solid state relay which accepts a small 12v dc feed from the pid to control the high current to the element, ie the 240vac 10/15/N amp load.
heat sink is just a metal block that sucks excessive heat away from the SSR

most pids cannot switch the full 240vac 10amp load, so we use it to send a signal to a SSR to do the work.

 

[mrsupraboy]

All good. I understand most of it from being an electrician. Just getting my head around how it works to build my system. Anyone can put things together but to make them work efficiently an understanding is needed. I'm also trying to find the limitations of what I can do. Pids arnt far of from BMS or plc's which I work on all the time. But seem to be a lot more basic.

Also learning a lot of the short terms e.g SSR solid state relay

 

[seamad]

As for the different types of PID, I have 3 different models of the Auber units on mine:
Normal one for the HLT as I just want it at a set temp
Ramp/soak for the RIMS for step mashing
Kettle has one that you can set output as a % to control boil easier

 

[mrsupraboy]

So how does the percentage one work

 

[seamad]

Works like a normal PID in that you can set it at a set temp or change it to a % output. I've 2 X 2400W elements, set at 100% to get to boil and then drop down to 90ish% once boiling to give a less vigorous boil ( 11% boil off rate at @ 90% ), depending on the brew volume .

 

[mrsupraboy]

Does the pid drop the voltage of the elements making them work at 90%

 

[Mardoo]

And where did you get it? That's pretty cool.

 

[seamad]

As far as I know it's something to do with leprechauns .

This maybe more helpful:
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SWA-24x1%20v1.pdf

 

[Camo6]

As far as I know it's something to do with leprechauns .

This maybe more helpful:
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/SWA-24x1%20v1.pdf

Is this the actual model you use Seamad? I think the standard 2352 in manual mode will output a percentage to the element. It's a pity the 2352p doesn't have the same feature or it would be great for simple 1v setups with step mashing.

 

[seamad]

It's the SWA 2451