My brew controller box

[seamad]

The swa 2451 also has a timer function, which was why I got that one for the kettle, after reading the instructions I got a headache and decided my watch was easier.

 

[mrsupraboy]

Does the pid drop the voltage of the elements making them work at 90%

???

 

[mxd]

???

I would work on the theory it turns the power on fo .9 then off for .1

 

[seamad]

no the power stays on the whole time, I would think it works much like an ordinary stove element

 

[mrsupraboy]

Can you set the minimum and max percentage. Say min to 20% and max to 100%. Also is it only 240v it changes or cannu get ones that change 12vdc .

Can you set perimeters on it for e.g set point is 70degrees. It drops half a degree so its at 50% operations so after 30secs it doesn't reach temp so then it works at 100% till reached.

Trying to figure out if I can do the gas setup I want

 

[seamad]

no, just a set %
They make a 12vdc pid that could operate a solenoid valve http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1
If wanting to control at 70 I wouldnt use % output but the auto PID ( thats easy with electric elements)
Controlling gas sounds tricky

 

[stux]

If the PID is connecting to the element via an SSR, then its turning the SSR on/off in a duty cycle to control the power to the element, rather than varying the voltage to the element.

Which is why you use a Solid State relay, instead of an electro-mechanical one.

 

[krausenhaus]

Can you set the minimum and max percentage. Say min to 20% and max to 100%. Also is it only 240v it changes or cannu get ones that change 12vdc .

Can you set perimeters on it for e.g set point is 70degrees. It drops half a degree so its at 50% operations so after 30secs it doesn't reach temp so then it works at 100% till reached.

Trying to figure out if I can do the gas setup I want

You can set upper and lower % output limits, yeah.

The SYL-2352 has a 12V output, but it's not sending a variable voltage which it sounds like you want. It's basically switching between 12V or 0V at a rate dependant on the % output calculated by the controller.

You can't program specific response instructions like you asked, but you can change the aggressiveness/speed of error correction by adjusting the tuning constants. I wouldn't really recommend doing this unless you understand what they do, especially given the fact that you're planning to control fire.

I'm sure there's plenty of guys over at Homebrewtalk that have used PIDs on gas systems so it may be worth having an extensive look over there.

 

[Mardoo]

The Brutus 10 uses basic PIDs on a gas system. The build instructions can be bought from BYO as a reprint here. It's the first one at the top of the list. You can also find that same article on download doing a bit of searching, however BYO is a worthy magazine to support.

 

[Hopnsandles]

Hey guys , I had advise and bought 2 cheap controllers and got my uncle to wire it up (he's an electrician) , he said it may be a little weak though and he was right . After 8 all grain sessions it melted . I did notice a lot of heat in the plug connections . My local HBS says these units are great but I reckon they can't handle the 2 x 2400w elements I'm running. Any advise or experience regarding a better controller build and cost would be appreciated. I reckon my Electric Brewery is the bomb but without heat it's just a bunch of stainless

 

[lael]

What are you controlling? 1 element in HLT and 1 in Mash tun? or both in one kettle?

 

[Hopnsandles]

Yeah 1 2400w in the mash tun , it only needs to reach and maintain temp , no stress . The boil kettle also has a 2400w . I use the that to get sparge water to temp and then boil after transferring wort . So it works quite hard . As you can see in the pic only the LEFT controller is badly damaged (boil controller). Having access only to 10amp outlets I think I'm limited or am I ? OR should I go to GAS I'm fairly new to this style of brewing, have been doing kits and extract for years but thought I would step it up .

 

[lael]

The power socket on the right does not look happy either - you might need to get something with a higher rating. Maybe you could wire the power to an AC activated SSR (something similar to: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40A-24-480V-AC-to-80-380V-AC-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-40AA-/)%C2 that the STC1000 is only switching the SSR on and off (put them on a heatsink) and the SSR is carrying the main current load.

 

[MastersBrewery]

The power socket on the right does not look happy either - you might need to get something with a higher rating. Maybe you could wire the power to an AC activated SSR (something similar to: that the STC1000 is only switching the SSR on and off (put them on a heatsink) and the SSR is carrying the main current load.

Agree with above, however I believe the heat issue is down to the guage wire used. Get some decent 2mm cable, I think you'd then be giving the stc a fair go. I used a 15 amp heavy duty tradies extention cord. Event at 10m it don't warm up. I also run two 2400w elements.

 

[Camo6]

+1 to above. If that's only 1mm2 flexible cord it's really only rated to 10A. Even 1.5mm2 is limited to 16A which is probably the size of the breaker it's running on.
You could get your electrician to wire it with 2.5mm2 but I'd be dubious on the stc's ability myself. I used one without issue on a herms and hlt but they were in separate units and never working as hard as a kettle element.
I'd be considering looking into SSR's and even PIDs if you're wanting to upgrade. Definitely research the electric brewery (it doesn't need all the bells and whistles but they are nice).

 

[Benn]

I'd like to use an STC-1000 to control a keg King 2200w element for mashing temps only, I've got an AC activated SSR (+heat sink & paste) on order. The 10A STC I have should be fine without the SSR but it's posts like the above with the pic of a melted STC that are freaking me out.
Has/does anyone use an STC+SSR combo? I thought I was on the right path the the AC activated SSR but just watched a YouTube clip of a pommy chap talking about removing the relays from the STC, bridging some circuits and then using a 3-32V DC SSR...

...I've been avidly following the various controller threads and at this point in time PIDS are not for me,

Cheers.

 

[Dae Tripper]

I'd like to use an STC-1000 to control a keg King 2200w element for mashing temps only, I've got an AC activated SSR (+heat sink & paste) on order. The 10A STC I have should be fine without the SSR but it's posts like the above with the pic of a melted STC that are freaking me out.
Has/does anyone use an STC+SSR combo? I thought I was on the right path the the AC activated SSR but just watched a YouTube clip of a pommy chap talking about removing the relays from the STC, bridging some circuits and then using a 3-32V DC SSR...
...I've been avidly following the various controller threads and at this point in time PIDS are not for me,
Cheers.

In the electrical world just because something says 10amp doesn't mean it can run things up there all day. Anyways you sure can run a ssr off an stc or a separate and more appropriate relay/contactor. You can also switch anything from a 240v stc as the relay contacts are separate, eg dc power supply. Hope that helps ya.

 

[TwoCrows]

Benn, Just found this clip to give you an idea of wiring in a relay. This is not an SSR relay but uses a 12 volt powered contact switch, Gash explains it all in his video.

I am not a sparky and I am only passing on information found on line, so I cannot state this is wired the correct way, but is a good start.

Link is below and stc1000 and rely description starts at 5:15 minutes.

 

[Hopnsandles]

Thanks for your comments , I've been researching over the last couple of days and all above are issues with BUDGET controllers . I tried to be a tight ass on a budget build and keep costs low . For the money I've spent I'm really happy , makes great beer but I'm thinking GAS HLT and Electric Mash Tun combo . My brother who's been brewing like me for years has a GAS single tier system and he swears by Gas . I have another controller I bought New from my HBS (professionally wired ?) , so given low temp load on the controller is low ( only needing to reach 75deg c ) I'll modify to a combo system . Give it a go and wait for more reliable controllers to hit the market. But I'm still a tight ass .
Thanks again for your comments

 

[Ditchnbeer]

While your controllers are rated at 10 amp this does not mean that they can handle 10 amp continuous load. This is why we have the temp controller control an SSR, which in turn switches the voltage to the element on and off. If the SSR controls a 2400W element (10A) then buy a 20A SSR, so it can def handle the load.

In the photos there are issues with heat and quality of fittings. Cable should be 2.5mm. Solder connections where you can. The 10A 3 pin sockets used are same as above, cannot handle long time 10A loads. Use industrial types which are way better quality, like:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Panel-Mounting-Socket-IEC-250vAC-10Amp-10-Pack-CN109b-/160656713912?hash=item2567e2e8b8:m:mZ1IvGBJNP1NTE7-2tBGueg

Regarding heat, I recommend at least one air vent to allow hot air to leave the interior. If you wanna get serious install a small fan (like PC cooling fan) to draw cool air across electrical components. And SSRs need to be mounted on heatsinks,
Goodluck.