Mash Temps

[Bizarre]

I've got a copy of "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy" by Dave Line,
and my confused(ish) brain has a quick(ish) question about mash temps and temp control.

I'm trying to figure which setup is best for me - the esky/braid setup which I know a lot of you guys use (successfully too I would assume! ), or whether I get a big s/s pot false bottom etc and regulate mash temp in the pot.

The reason I'm asking this (dumb?) question is that on reading through a lot of the recipes in Dave Lines book - he often uses 3 different temps through his process.

Start at 45C - add the grains - raise to 55C fo 1/2 an hour - raise to 66C and hold for an hour and a 1/2. This is how a lot of 'em seem to go. Is this really necessary and does it give any real advantage? Cause as far as I was aware the enzymes dont kick in till you hit the 60's. If this is all un-necessary methinks I might go the Esky/braid way.

One last thing - If I need to do smaller volume mashes / boils due to space restrictions/costs etc - probly about 15 litres volume - is this likely to have any impact on my efficiency of extracting the goodies from the grain (bearing in mind solution saturation points etc).

 

[hockadays]

I use the esky / braid method and am still learning heaps after doing 4 AG brews. I was told to first learn the single infusion method as excellent beer can be made doing it this way. You can also do step mashes in an esky by adding boiling water etc.. If I could afford it though I would have stainless for everything..

Matt

 

[Jye]

Hey Bizarre,

When first starting it is easiest to stick to a single infusion mash. You can then try a stepped mash which involves adding boiling water to the mash to raise the temp. What you described is an Acid rest, Protein rest and Saccharification rest. The acid rest it not needed because the grains are highly modified today (dont ask me to explain why), some people including myself do a protein rest for 30 min before stepping up to a sacch rest. I have it found it gives my beers better head retention, but that is something you have to find for your self as others have stated a protein rest will destroy the head because it helps to break down the proteins.

You will get lower efficiency because you will be using less sparge water.

Hope this helped
Jye :beer:

 

[Bizarre]

Thanks for the replies guys - specially Jye - I feel a bit less confused now!

 

[shmick]

I've got a copy of "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy" by Dave Line,
and my confused(ish) brain has a quick(ish) question about mash temps and temp control.

I'm trying to figure which setup is best for me - the esky/braid setup which I know a lot of you guys use (successfully too I would assume! ), or whether I get a big s/s pot false bottom etc and regulate mash temp in the pot.

The reason I'm asking this (dumb?) question is that on reading through a lot of the recipes in Dave Lines book - he often uses 3 different temps through his process.

Start at 45C - add the grains - raise to 55C fo 1/2 an hour - raise to 66C and hold for an hour and a 1/2. This is how a lot of 'em seem to go. Is this really necessary and does it give any real advantage? Cause as far as I was aware the enzymes dont kick in till you hit the 60's. If this is all un-necessary methinks I might go the Esky/braid way.

One last thing - If I need to do smaller volume mashes / boils due to space restrictions/costs etc - probly about 15 litres volume - is this likely to have any impact on my efficiency of extracting the goodies from the grain (bearing in mind solution saturation points etc).

[post="124810"][/post]​

I read that book a few months back and it was quite interesting to see how far the hobby has progressed.
The basic methodologies were ok for what he was trying to do with his equipment but I would take his recipes with a grain of salt and do a bit of research if you are trying replicate a particular beer rather than a (very) general style.
It was written some 30 odd years ago (before he passed on) when UK home brewers had a fairly limited supply of ingredients available - particularly hops and yeast.
IIRC he specs hallertau for Fosters Lager and non specific 'brewers yeast' for a few others. The proprietry cans of hopped malt extract get a run occasionally too which are next to useless from our point of view.

I guess every hobby has it's pioneers and you work with what's available.
He did invent, or at least popularised the HBU (Home-brewer bittering units) which also become popular in the US (AAU) but not so much here as it is based on imperial measurements (Gal x oz x AA).
Trivia time over :chug: