Mash In With Cold Water
- Thread starter Joel
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Yob
Hop to it
Works for me too.. Mashed in cold last night, timers set to kick on at 4am.. Went out at 7:45 and ramped to knockout.. By the time I'm finished with kids breakfast I should be right to sparge.
It's a great option for the time challenged. My last few brews have been done like this. Love it.
It's a great option for the time challenged. My last few brews have been done like this. Love it.
Hi guys,
I started my all grain brewing with a HERMS simply because it looked like a really cool way to do it. I built a lot of my gear. It was great.
The only concern I would have with doughing in cold, is that you run the risk of not getting the expected unfermentables from a high mash temp. With modern malt having such good diastatic power as you ramp through 60 and up to 69 your starch is busily converting to sugar. They will be so well hydrated by then that you may have fully converted before you even get to the 69 degrees that you would aim for if you wanted more body and sweetness. Indeed one of the earlier posts stated that the porter mashed at 69 was a bit thin.
I reckon the best bet would be to run a cold mash for a porter at 69. Then run another batch where you dough in at 69 and compare the results. Who ever said 69 wasn't sweet?
I started my all grain brewing with a HERMS simply because it looked like a really cool way to do it. I built a lot of my gear. It was great.
The only concern I would have with doughing in cold, is that you run the risk of not getting the expected unfermentables from a high mash temp. With modern malt having such good diastatic power as you ramp through 60 and up to 69 your starch is busily converting to sugar. They will be so well hydrated by then that you may have fully converted before you even get to the 69 degrees that you would aim for if you wanted more body and sweetness. Indeed one of the earlier posts stated that the porter mashed at 69 was a bit thin.
I reckon the best bet would be to run a cold mash for a porter at 69. Then run another batch where you dough in at 69 and compare the results. Who ever said 69 wasn't sweet?
MartinOC
Insert something suitably witty here
Agreed, woodfired.
I asked Yob this question earlier today (ie. whether he's noticed any difference in the beers between a cold-start & a specified-temp. mash-in). He reckons it works for him & the beers he's making (& his current domestic situation).
I really like the time-saving aspect to the technique, but I wouldn't use it for everything. If I wanted a very attenuative wort (ie. Saison or a simple, dry summer-quaffer), then I'd definitely be using this technique. 'Wouldn't do it for something like a Mild or a Scotch Ale where you want some residual dextrinous body.
Horses for courses....
I asked Yob this question earlier today (ie. whether he's noticed any difference in the beers between a cold-start & a specified-temp. mash-in). He reckons it works for him & the beers he's making (& his current domestic situation).
I really like the time-saving aspect to the technique, but I wouldn't use it for everything. If I wanted a very attenuative wort (ie. Saison or a simple, dry summer-quaffer), then I'd definitely be using this technique. 'Wouldn't do it for something like a Mild or a Scotch Ale where you want some residual dextrinous body.
Horses for courses....
technobabble66
Meat Popsicle
You also might need to just adjust your steps' temp slightly, to balance the time spent ramping thru the lower 60's.
Eg: for the main sacch step you might up it a degree or 2 (again, as Martin says, depending on what you're after).
Also, many of us already do several mash steps. So especially if you do a 52-55 protein rest, you're used to ramping up to the appropriate sacch rests and already account for ramping time thru the lower 60's range. To go from 60 to 65 normally doesn't take a huge amount of time, so it shouldn't impact too much.
Eg: for the main sacch step you might up it a degree or 2 (again, as Martin says, depending on what you're after).
Also, many of us already do several mash steps. So especially if you do a 52-55 protein rest, you're used to ramping up to the appropriate sacch rests and already account for ramping time thru the lower 60's range. To go from 60 to 65 normally doesn't take a huge amount of time, so it shouldn't impact too much.
Yob
Hop to it
With the right PID there is no reason why you couldn't target anything you wanted, you just need a ramp / soak PID
Qldkev has the links on those, about $70 from memory and ultimately that's where I'll be heading.
One thing to remember to do cold though is to settle the grain bed. You don't want the pump firing up at full speed and sticking the mash while you're asleep.. I give mine about 3 starts just to check before leaving it to its own devices...
Cheaper off peak electricity use too.
Qldkev has the links on those, about $70 from memory and ultimately that's where I'll be heading.
One thing to remember to do cold though is to settle the grain bed. You don't want the pump firing up at full speed and sticking the mash while you're asleep.. I give mine about 3 starts just to check before leaving it to its own devices...
Cheaper off peak electricity use too.
MartinOC
Insert something suitably witty here
EXACTLY where I've been thinking recently.Yob said:
I can feel a mega-batch of saison coming-on.....
I got my PIDs for $16 and the thermocouples for $17 from china. Details below. They were so cheap I bought a second one just to monitor the wort temp as it comes out of the mash tun. this way I can monitor the lag in the HERMS. Thermocouple came with a 1/2 inch thread. I used this with a stainless tee and 1/2 inch barbs to hook up to silicone hoses. I have a picture of it all set up, but I can't work out how to attach a pic!
The PID controller switches an SSR relay that switches my electric kettle on and off. I get a lot of disbelief for using my $7.50 BigW kettle for a HERMS but if the coil in the kettle is sized appropriately it works perfectly.
PID PID REX-C100 Temperature Controll
er +max.40A SSR +K Thermocouple
Probe 0-400
thermo RTD Pt100 ohm Probe Sensor L 50m
m PT 1/2'' Thread with3 Lead Wire 6.
56ft
The PID controller switches an SSR relay that switches my electric kettle on and off. I get a lot of disbelief for using my $7.50 BigW kettle for a HERMS but if the coil in the kettle is sized appropriately it works perfectly.
PID PID REX-C100 Temperature Controll
er +max.40A SSR +K Thermocouple
Probe 0-400
thermo RTD Pt100 ohm Probe Sensor L 50m
m PT 1/2'' Thread with3 Lead Wire 6.
56ft
Don't stress peeps. I'm a sparky and that photo was taken during testing trials with water. Its all been made safe since.
The thermocouple wires are extra low voltage have very strong insulation and thus safe.
Thanks for the tip on the pump MHB. I worked it out not long after this photo was taken. I saw your old beer machine at Newy exotic beer dinner a while back. Is there any chance HUB can borrow it for Bitter and Twisted this year? I'll send you a message with my contact details.
The thermocouple wires are extra low voltage have very strong insulation and thus safe.
Thanks for the tip on the pump MHB. I worked it out not long after this photo was taken. I saw your old beer machine at Newy exotic beer dinner a while back. Is there any chance HUB can borrow it for Bitter and Twisted this year? I'll send you a message with my contact details.
