Malt Shovel Kits

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Well, to be sure I also emailed MSB and Jess replied saying he didnt know, but Maltexo could help me.

I called them and spoke to some woman who said she didnt know which strain it was but that is was definitely a lager strain.

When I queried the specified high fermentation temperature she suggested maybe thats because its EuropeanOMG :lol: :eek: :unsure: :rolleyes:

I then said lager yeast is European and goodbye!

PZ.

That's disappointing, Fingerlickin, to say the least. You'd expect more from folks who purport to be craft brewers. Their customer service has obviously dropped off lately. Anyway, I really wanted to suggest to guys on the list not to automatically discard the yeast under the lid without knowing what it is (assuming we're buying fresh kits, of course). With some producers now supplying premium yeasts with their kits it doesn't make sense to throw it out and spend $4.50 or even $9.00 (for two packs) on what might be the very same thing! For example, I just bought a kit yesterday (Brewcraft) which is supplied with a US-56 yeast. Do some research. My experience has been that most producers are only too happy to tell you what they are using. Good brewing!
 
Well, to be sure I also emailed MSB and Jess replied saying he didnt know, but Maltexo could help me.

I called them and spoke to some woman who said she didnt know which strain it was but that is was definitely a lager strain.

When I queried the specified high fermentation temperature she suggested maybe thats because its EuropeanOMG

I then said lager yeast is European and goodbye!

PZ.

heh "maybe that's because it's european" :lol:

Jess is a she... i don't think any of the guys at the brewery will be able to help you because they don't make it there (maybe Chuck will but that's another story)

Anyway, correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe the lager yeast supplied with MSB kits is S-189.

S-189 specs
 
Well, to be sure I also emailed MSB and Jess replied saying he didnt know, but Maltexo could help me.

I called them and spoke to some woman who said she didnt know which strain it was but that is was definitely a lager strain.

When I queried the specified high fermentation temperature she suggested maybe thats because its EuropeanOMG

I then said lager yeast is European and goodbye!

PZ.

heh "maybe that's because it's european" :lol:

Jess is a she... i don't think any of the guys at the brewery will be able to help you because they don't make it there (maybe Chuck will but that's another story)

Anyway, correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe the lager yeast supplied with MSB kits is S-189.

S-189 specs

S-189...that rings a bell, DJR. I think we may have nailed it.
 
34/70 has shown signs of life :super:

Well that did take a while, but it's obviously working now.

PZ.
 
So that's around 36 hours since pitching? That's a long adaptive phase but then again, you didn't have a lot of yeast to begin with, did you? Occasionally the yeast may struggle with the trub and cold break in the bottom of the fermenter, unless you managed to syphon the wort off the break material in the kettle and that can result in stuck ferments as the bottom fermenting yeast struggles to have at the sugars in solution.

Just keep an eye on the fermenter; observe, sniff and have a taste in another 24 hours to make sure that it's the yeast and not a bacterial infection doing the job! Put it all down to experience!

Cheers,
TL
 
So that's around 36 hours since pitching? That's a long adaptive phase but then again, you didn't have a lot of yeast to begin with, did you?
15 grams for 11 litres didn't seem like "not a lot" to me, I normally pitch that much ale yeast into batches twice that size :huh:

Just keep an eye on the fermenter; observe, sniff and have a taste in another 24 hours to make sure that it's the yeast and not a bacterial infection doing the job! Put it all down to experience!

Looks good, smells good...it's definitely the yeast :beer:

Thanks for all you input too :)

PZ.
 
15 grams for 11 litres didn't seem like "not a lot" to me, I normally pitch that much ale yeast into batches twice that size :huh:

Yep, and that's one of the many differences between brewing lagers and ales...you normally use twice as much yeast in a lager - so one sachet for a half sized lager batch is normal. When using liquid lager yeast, it's important to make a starter - not just to confirm the viability of the liquid yeast, but to make a large population of yeast to go into the wort...Hence stepping up the starter over a couple of days before brewday - and as mentioned elsewhere, you can use room temps to do that since you're making yeast, not beer.

Cheers,
TL
 
Hey everyone,

I'm relatively new to the homebrew game - done 6 brews so far - but I'm getting to the point where I want to slowly build my brewing skills and jazz up some kit beers for something a little tastier.

I've got 2 cans of Malt Shovel Summer Wheat that I'm going to prepare as a 23L brew on Sunday. I've already got myself some K-97 to use instead of the kit yeast, but really want to add some aromatic/finishing hops. As a slow start I was thinking of just buying a 'teabag' of Saaz hops (as per Redback) to boil for 5-10 minutes.... What do you all think?

To follow up in a few weeks time, I've also got two cans of Malt Shovel Deep Roast Ale. Got some Safale S-04 instead of the kit yeast, but again, I think some extra aromatic/finishing hops might be nice. Any suggestions on what I should use, and for how long? Further, the guy at my local store suggested adding dry corn syrup to the Deep Roast Ale - maltodextrin I believe - I guess in an attempt to make it really smooth and creamy. Does this sound like a fair idea?

Cheers in advance for the help!
 
Hey everyone,

I'm relatively new to the homebrew game - done 6 brews so far - but I'm getting to the point where I want to slowly build my brewing skills and jazz up some kit beers for something a little tastier.

I've got 2 cans of Malt Shovel Summer Wheat that I'm going to prepare as a 23L brew on Sunday. I've already got myself some K-97 to use instead of the kit yeast, but really want to add some aromatic/finishing hops. As a slow start I was thinking of just buying a 'teabag' of Saaz hops (as per Redback) to boil for 5-10 minutes.... What do you all think?

To follow up in a few weeks time, I've also got two cans of Malt Shovel Deep Roast Ale. Got some Safale S-04 instead of the kit yeast, but again, I think some extra aromatic/finishing hops might be nice. Any suggestions on what I should use, and for how long? Further, the guy at my local store suggested adding dry corn syrup to the Deep Roast Ale - maltodextrin I believe - I guess in an attempt to make it really smooth and creamy. Does this sound like a fair idea?

Cheers in advance for the help!

Beefy,

Welcome, fill out your location so someone may be of assistance close to you in the future.

For the wheat, use either a Hallertau or Tettnanger tea bag if you use them, for the Ale try East Kent Goldings or Fuggles. Saaz are more traditionally used in Pilsner/Lager styles. Watch the teabags though, try and check if they are fresh and kept refridgerated. If they are just sitting on the shelf give them a miss as they will probably be stale and lacking flavour. Depending on where you are there are a number of good sources of hops that you could add to finish.

Cheers.
 
Beefy,

Welcome, fill out your location so someone may be of assistance close to you in the future.

Done and dusted.

For the wheat, use either a Hallertau or Tettnanger tea bag if you use them, for the Ale try East Kent Goldings or Fuggles. Saaz are more traditionally used in Pilsner/Lager styles. Watch the teabags though, try and check if they are fresh and kept refridgerated. If they are just sitting on the shelf give them a miss as they will probably be stale and lacking flavour. Depending on where you are there are a number of good sources of hops that you could add to finish.

Cheers.

Yeah, I got a PM from Ross suggesting that teabagged hops could be a poor choice. I'm quite sure my local home brew store (Westbrew Osborne Park) refridgerates everything, but maybe 'loose' pellets is a more reliable choice.

I was thinking Saaz because that's what is in Redback - a favourite of mine. But I see Hallertau come up frequently for wheat beers, so I'll trust your judgment and grab some of those and a hop sock. The method I have for finishing hops is to boil 12-15g for 2-5 minutes in half a litre of water, let sit for 10 minutes, then add to the fermenter with the kit. Is there anything you'd alter with this?

Goldings or Fuggles for the ale? Sounds good. My next cab-off-the-rank will be a stout - those should both be good for that as well I believe so maybe a large pack is in order. But how long will hops keep fresh opened in the fridge?

So anybody with opinions on the dry corn syrup in the ale before I write up my final shopping list?
 
I find Northern Brewer in small doses are beautiful in stouts and brown ales as a finisher.
 
So anybody with opinions on the dry corn syrup in the ale before I write up my final shopping list? /quote]

Maltodextrin doesn't ferment out fully so it will add body to your beer. It would be a good addition in something like the dark ale you've mentioned.
 
I find it leaves an ice sugar and flour taste but I believe others swear by it. Probably a palate thing. It certainly builds body and promotes head. I personally prefer a combination of powder malt, wheat malt and a really good sugar such as Demera, Raw etc... (Dark is good but has molasses so better in an old) You can invert the sugar. I keep it too around 350 grams for 3kg mix. The wheat malt promotes a head and leaves a nice lacing on the glass when drunk.
 
Beefy,

Welcome to AHB........

Things will never be the same ......................... :eek:

Cheers,
Jase
 
Thanks for all the advice everyone.

I'm still not quite decided on a lot of things. Hallertau comes up frequently for wheat beers, but Saaz is present in Redback and Grumpy's Belgian witbier recipe....... its the sort of things where you can't really go wrong.

Fuggles, Goldings, Northern Brewer - all used frequently, and in the end its a matter of taste and habit. Same with maltodextrin - won't kill the brew, won't necessarily make it 'better'.

At least the advice I've been given is sound, and the choices I'm considering aren't all that bizarre. Guess I'll just make a trip to the store and decide spur-of-the-moment. Its never let me down before!

Thanks again! :)

Beefy,

Welcome to AHB........

Things will never be the same ......................... :eek:

Cheers,
Jase

Erm, thanks, I think?!? ;)
 
Oh I know where you are coming from. I still agonise over decisions. With hops I stuck to the common ones for the style, then I experimented a bit then went back to ones for the style then I experimented a bit etc... :)

One non standard combo I like is goldings in a malty 4x style lager. I'm convinced the original 4x is the half brother lager equivalent of an English Bitter.

Someone said check the freshness, are they in the fridge. If your brew shop man is passionate about beer, he'll treat them like his own kin. I know my supplier in Toodyay W.A would rather go broke than sell you an inferior product.
 
Beefy - give the 3kg ESB tins a go also that do 23 litres from the one tin. They are probably half the price of buying two cans of the malt shovel stuff everytime to make up 22 litres.
Cheers
Steve
 
Beefy - give the 3kg ESB tins a go also that do 23 litres from the one tin. They are probably half the price of buying two cans of the malt shovel stuff everytime to make up 22 litres.
Cheers
Steve

Hey Steve,

I got the Malt Shovel at a really good price - $60 for 4 cans, with a free copy of the book 'Brewing Crafts'. The book is just an excuse to promote Westbrew products more than anything else, but it does contain a huge amount of useful information and recipes.

I'm definitely planning to try the ESB kits in the near future after all my current brews are done......
 
The ESB cans are quiet simply sensational. Munton's premuim gold I find equally as good for a british ale but twice the price.
 
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