bugger.iralosavic said:The plan was to change the outlet from the HX from the MLT input to just hanging over the side of the boiler (until I get the appropriate fitting to allow underletting), however, the LBP did just not have the guts to pump that far, which is interesting, as it manages quite fine to the MLT return and the boiler is only another 15cm higher (due to the burner platform).
Obviously I could possibly solve this by instead redirecting the flow from the pump outlet and not involve the HX at all, but I was a little suprirsed/disappointed by this and it did mean I had to batch sparge to a pot on the ground and lift it to tip into the boiler 6 or so times, which was a bit risky and a PITA.
Also i swear I heard the pump stop operating for a while when flow had slowed down or stopped (it was definitely still primed [liquid full on in and out hoses]).
G'day. When you say to run hot water through the pump at the "end of brewing", you mean at mash out? The pump will recirculate during all mash steps, then immediately switch to fly sparging (with HLT gravity feeding the top of the MLT) right up until the pre boil volume/gravity is achieved, THEN the pump is no longer required.Adr_0 said:bugger.
may have your problem... not sure that the LBP is rated for wort, as when it the wort cools in the pump it probably clogs the sealing mechanism up.
since you are using it to recirc wort, I would suggest that if you use the LBP to push hot water from the HLT to the MLT as well, I would run this for 2min at the end of your brewing to move some water through the pump to flush out any sugar. this water can go back into the HLT if you want, or as sparge into the mash. If you don't have this setup, I suggest a 3-way valve to plumb it in.
what do you reckon? this may also explain why it initially worked ok and has deteriorated each time you try to use it.
EDIT: just for clarity, definitely still run the pump inlet from the bottom of the HLT/MLT -
I'll give it a go! Even with the Chugger on the way, I have big plans for that LBP!Truman said:Pull the pump apart and soak all the bits in pbw.
The shaft bearing/cogged looking thingy will have dried wort in the middle joint which is pushing the shaft against the body and stopping the pump from working.
Do this and run the pump with the body at the top and vertical and your LBP will pump wort until the cows come home.
What Truman said.Truman said:Once Ive mashed out and sparged I hose out my MLT then fill it with 5 litres of hot water (Gravity fed from the HLT, and have allowed for this in my original top up of the HLT). I put some PBW in and then recirculat this throug the pump, hex, and back to the MLT for about ten minutes. I then put the MLT return hose into a bucket and stick the garden hose into the MLT and let that recirculate, rinsing the pwb out of the MLT, pump and lines then hang my hoses and hex coil up to dry.
All done as I reach boil in the kettle and now only have a kettle to clean at EOBD.
There is a metal bush in the middle of the cogged wheel that holds the pumps shaft straight inside the pump body. If this gets wort in it the bush twists slightly and pushes the magnet against the side of the housing it sits inside and slows or stops the pump completly. So it needs to be cleaned out with hot water and kept vertical while running.
Thanks for the break down, mate. Makes a lot more sense and it will cut down time on my brewday. Any tips on getting the hot grain out of the MLT!? I've just been scooping it out by hand into a 20L pot and dumping it in the bin (until I get chooks).Truman said:Once Ive mashed out and sparged I hose out my MLT then fill it with 5 litres of hot water (Gravity fed from the HLT, and have allowed for this in my original top up of the HLT). I put some PBW in and then recirculat this throug the pump, hex, and back to the MLT for about ten minutes. I then put the MLT return hose into a bucket and stick the garden hose into the MLT and let that recirculate, rinsing the pwb out of the MLT, pump and lines then hang my hoses and hex coil up to dry.
All done as I reach boil in the kettle and now only have a kettle to clean at EOBD.
There is a metal bush in the middle of the cogged wheel that holds the pumps shaft straight inside the pump body. If this gets wort in it the bush twists slightly and pushes the magnet against the side of the housing it sits inside and slows or stops the pump completly. So it needs to be cleaned out with hot water and kept vertical while running.
I do the same using a plastic scoop. But I have an industrial sized wet and dry vac so was thinking of giving that a try next time. Then I can just empty the vac into the garden bin. (No chooks either)iralosavic said:Thanks for the break down, mate. Makes a lot more sense and it will cut down time on my brewday. Any tips on getting the hot grain out of the MLT!? I've just been scooping it out by hand into a 20L pot and dumping it in the bin (until I get chooks).
How exactly do you remove this bush?Truman said:Once Ive mashed out and sparged I hose out my MLT then fill it with 5 litres of hot water (Gravity fed from the HLT, and have allowed for this in my original top up of the HLT). I put some PBW in and then recirculat this throug the pump, hex, and back to the MLT for about ten minutes. I then put the MLT return hose into a bucket and stick the garden hose into the MLT and let that recirculate, rinsing the pwb out of the MLT, pump and lines then hang my hoses and hex coil up to dry.
All done as I reach boil in the kettle and now only have a kettle to clean at EOBD.
There is a metal bush in the middle of the cogged wheel that holds the pumps shaft straight inside the pump body. If this gets wort in it the bush twists slightly and pushes the magnet against the side of the housing it sits inside and slows or stops the pump completly. So it needs to be cleaned out with hot water and kept vertical while running.
I'll have a fiddle tonight, but I assume you only really have a few options: pry it out, knock it out or suck it out lol and by suck I mean use a strong magnetDarkman said:How exactly do you remove this bush?
The last time I pulled apart my LBP I could only get as far as removing the impeller wheel. I really did want to force it but I pressume you need a small screw driver to force it out.
You've designed a very similar solution that I have come up with pending my new pump, only I haven't go tthe HLT flow diverted to the inlet (as it seems like it would be fine to just start the flow in the MLT if I have to clean it out first anyway and I've added a bleed/purge valve and have chosen two separate valves instead of a 3-way on the output side so that I can control flow speed to the kettle without letting the balance back through the HX. Good to see another mind come up with the same design more or less!Adr_0 said:This may achieve what you want:
Really depends on your layout. You can use two-way/normal ball valves on the HLT drain or a 3-way... makes zero difference; just use what you have. A 3-way would be good on the LBP outlet though. You can mount it vertically if you want, I think the 'casing' of the pump will still fill up with wort though and you will still need to flush.
If you can pull out the MLT when the boil is on and your 30kW flames of hell burner is going strong, that's great - and just look after the spent grains how you normally do. Not sure what your setup is, but regardless the valve under the MLT should be closed at this point. If you can remove your MLT the MLT return from the Hx can just go to a bucket of water for e.g. Obviously the Hx should have no power/heat to it at this point. I guess you should turn the LBP off after your transfer to the kettle and while you pull the MLT out.
EDIT: Technically the inlet and outlet on the LBP aren't drawn correctly, but you can see the basic process flows which is the important bit.
Cool. As long as you're making delicious delicious wort for the yeasties, you're set.iralosavic said:You've designed a very similar solution that I have come up with pending my new pump, only I haven't go tthe HLT flow diverted to the inlet (as it seems like it would be fine to just start the flow in the MLT if I have to clean it out first anyway and I've added a bleed/purge valve and have chosen two separate valves instead of a 3-way on the output side so that I can control flow speed to the kettle without letting the balance back through the HX. Good to see another mind come up with the same design more or less!
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