Fly sparging technique

[TheWiggman]

I'm new to AG and have recently rigged up a new PID controlled recirc sytem. Check out my gallery or other posts for some blunders and shenanigans.
I'm currently 'between pumps', but the only step in the all grain process I'm not sure about is sparging. I understand the different basic types, but one can get overwhelmed with the numerous contraptions and gizmos out there between setups. Not to mention the contentious issue of which is best, efficiency loss etc.

The first time I did it with my new setup I opened up the ball valve 100% to the boiler and literally ran hot water (78°C) straight into the grain from the pump at 8l/min or whatever. It disturbed the grain bed to high hell. Once the level dropped I fired again and maintained a water level at the top of the grain bed. Massive OG, had to actually water it down but worked out nicely. Not ready for tasting, but early samples indicate a fine beer.

2nd run I choked the drain valve and did the same method but pointed the water at the edges of the mash tun to avoid disturbing the bed. Took about 45 mins - 1h. Got excellent results all 'round.

3rd time was a comedy of errors thanks to a busted pump. Poured it on the edges using a saucepan and maintained water level height in the MLT. Took 45 mins. Got shithouse low OG but the mash cycle was stuffed up thanks to the pump. Fermenting. Taste test pending, but bets are on it's filthy thanks to me misplacing some bleach in there somewhere.

SO, for simplicity, I'd like to fly sparge by -

1. Choking the discharge to the boiler to guess at a 45 min process
2. Point the hot water so that it pumps in on top of the edge of the MLT level
3. Run the pump to match flow from the HLT

I have a 45° elbow straight into the MLT with some silicone tube off a barb. I can rig it to sit on the water level to minimise stirring/whirlpooling. The Blichmann Autosparger does this but more eloquently.

My basic question is - is this fine? Will it circulate/stir and am I better off simply batch sparging? I don't want to spend more money right now on a fancy sparge arm and want to make do with what I've got.

 

[Screwtop]

It's fine, sparging systems are overated, have tried quite a few. Been using this for years:

Fishing net float on the end of silicon hose and slow flow. With a few inches of liquid covering the grainbed there is no disturbance.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Put a plate/pie tin on top of the grain bed and your sparg arm on that. Allows a nice even dispersal of water

 

[Camo6]

In regards to fly sparging, is the preferred technique to start the sparge when the wort level falls below the top of the grain bed? I'm relatively new to the sparge and have been draining my mt completely then slowly refilling before balancing the pumps flow for an even transfer. Rarely get a stuck sparge, wort is clear and efficiency is good but is there a reason why I should not do it this way?

 

[Tex083]

Screwtop where do you get the fishing net floats? I looked at BCF but couldn't find them does eBay have a supplier?

http://bit.ly/1a2tqTM
This is almost the same as the auto sparge but $14.78 and free postage. If the link doesn't work search liquid water sensor

 

[SimoB]

In regards to fly sparging, is the preferred technique to start the sparge when the wort level falls below the top of the grain bed? I'm relatively new to the sparge and have been draining my mt completely then slowly refilling before balancing the pumps flow for an even transfer. Rarely get a stuck sparge, wort is clear and efficiency is good but is there a reason why I should not do it this way?

I normally start when I can start to see the grain bed be exposed, but I have no experience really and have just done it this way. Im not sure on the correct method either, keen for the reply on this one.

 

[Screwtop]

Screwtop where do you get the fishing net floats? I looked at BCF but couldn't find them does eBay have a supplier?

http://bit.ly/1a2tqTM
This is almost the same as the auto sparge but $14.78 and free postage. If the link doesn't work search liquid water sensor

Bought my float/s (on the second after 5 years of use) from a local fishing tackle shop. Had to drill out the centre hole a little to fit the silicon hose.

Recommended to keep the grainbed covered by a couple of inches and to maintain level during lauter/sparge by balancing runoff/sparge rates. It's easy enough, to manage and not that critical that you need anything like a tank float valve. Just set the MLT outlet valve to around a half to one litre per min, set the HLT outlet valve to about the same position and then check each 15 min and adjust to balance. Don't overcomplicate brewing at home, I've even missed checking and filled the MLT with sparge water, so long as the runoff is slow, efficiency will still be through the roof.

Be sure to have the exact amount of sparge water in the HLT. My 90L HLT allows me to prepare (filter and balance PH) all brewing water prior to brewing. After transferring strike water to the MLT the remaining sparge water is heated to 77C during the mash ready for sparging.

Screwy