Liquid Vs Dry Yeast - Im Converted - Should I Be?

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I thought I read somewhere that when using dried yeasts you don't need to aerate but there you go, will be aerating now.
 
A lot of micro's over here in the UK are using dry yeast; some just sprinkling in when transferring into fermenters. They are making beers that people are going crazy over, can't make enough to sell - a notable one is even mixing US05 & Nottingham when pitching, crazy. Dry yeast might not flocculate that well (given the strain) but almost all micros are fining when racking to cask - crystal clear pint!
 
On a side note I do not rehydrate dried apple, apricots, sultanas or other varieties of fruit. :rolleyes:
To quote the doc you attached: "Yeasts are living organisms" ... apple, apricots, sultanas and other varieties of fruit are for eating and as such are not live little critters that you need to encourage, care for and looked after so they ferment your beer well.
 
To quote the doc you attached: "Yeasts are living organisms" ... apple, apricots, sultanas and other varieties of fruit are for eating and as such are not live little critters that you need to encourage, care for and looked after so they ferment your beer well.

Umm.. I was just being a clown. I do understand the difference between yeast and fruit... Could bring a bit of fun though bobbing for apples in a fermenter!!

Sorry if you took it as a serious point and in direct relation to the yeast topic.. More of these next time.. :blink: :huh: :D :p Unless I can find the "Asshat comment" font..

Cheers, Mat.
 
My 2c...

I think its not a Dry vs Liquid yeast issue. I think it has more to do with pitching rates and lag time. The fact that dried yeast has to re-hydrate in the sugary wort and then get going vs liquids up-and-go I think plays a bigger part.

I've made some good beers with both liquid and dry. I find if you hydrate the dry in some boiled and cooled water (I just use water that's left over in the tea kettle), it makes dry comparable to liquid.


Agree with the pitching rate viewpoint.

My last beer I made a starter with the US-05 as it was fairly old (though still in a fridge), and I wanted to get decent viabile numbers up prior to pitching into the APA wort I had made. I think it worked very well, with a nice clean, hop forward flavour in the beer as I was expecting.

I think the most important aspect of brewing is pitching enough yeast. I am of the opinion that the lack of reliable testing to understand how much viable yeast we are pitching at the homebrew level means that people apportion blame of off tastes, or requirement to have 1 week primary, 2 week secondary, 3 weeks bottle condition (the motto for some american forums) is due to insufficient yeast pitching.

For your next few brews, take what you would normally pitch for your yeast, and double it and see if you taste an improvement in your beers. Commercial breweries pitch straight after primary a far higher rate than we do, and this is not just for reducing lag times (an active starter will give you a quick start to primary ferment), but also for getting a "clean" flavour straight after primary is complete.

Rant over and sorry to take it off topic. Dry, liquid, doesn't matter, just pitch the right amount.

1318 is my yeast of choice.. top cropping is too easy to preserve top quality ale yeast.

Cheers

:icon_chickcheers:
 
I thought I read somewhere that when using dried yeasts you don't need to aerate but there you go, will be aerating now.

I think you may be mistaken between aerate and rehydrate. All yeasts need oxygen for their primary growth stage. Liquid yeasts do not need to be rehydrated because they are already liquid.

Cheers.
 
After switching to liquid yeasts a few years ago and making my stir plate I've used maybe two dry yeasts in that time. For the range liquid yeasts just can't be beat and by harvesting them and stepping up in starters they work out cheaper to use too imo.
 
(jlm @ Mar 2 2011, 08:36 PM)
I thought I read somewhere that when using dried yeasts you don't need to aerate but there you go, will be aerating now.


I think you may be mistaken between aerate and rehydrate. All yeasts need oxygen for their primary growth stage. Liquid yeasts do not need to be rehydrated because they are already liquid.

Cheers.


No, Jlm is correct, dried yeast has enough oxygen stored in its make up that it does not require additional aerating - That said, it won't do it any harm either.

Cheers Ross
 
For the record, I obviously have access to all the liquid yeasts I could want, but I still use dried when their is one that gives the character I'm after.

I've been talking to a very senior brewer who has strong contacts within the Belgian beer industry & he informs me that dried WB-06 is becoming very popular there (including trappist breweries) for a multitude of beer styles.


cheers Ross
 
For the record, I obviously have access to all the liquid yeasts I could want, but I still use dried when their is one that gives the character I'm after.

I've been talking to a very senior brewer who has strong contacts within the Belgian beer industry & he informs me that dried WB-06 is becoming very popular there (including trappist breweries) for a multitude of beer styles.


cheers Ross

I have just brewed a dark belgian strong ale using your dry Belgian ale yeast Ross, it turned out pretty nice, if a little high in gravity with a rich silky mouth feel. Overall happy but next time I will have to watch the temperature, it leapt to 28c overnight and was spewing CO2 out the airlock the bubbles almost didnt form!

1.100 SG, 1.029 FG. Going to rack it onto a saison yeast cake to bring it down a few more points.
 
I have just brewed a dark belgian strong ale using your dry Belgian ale yeast Ross, it turned out pretty nice, if a little high in gravity with a rich silky mouth feel. Overall happy but next time I will have to watch the temperature, it leapt to 28c overnight and was spewing CO2 out the airlock the bubbles almost didnt form!

1.100 SG, 1.029 FG. Going to rack it onto a saison yeast cake to bring it down a few more points.

OT: fraser_john, at that gravity and temperature, did you find the yeast produced a quite spicy/peppery flavour? I've used it in beers pale in colour and thought a darker beer may be a better option with this yeast.
 
A "please explain" maybe whats needed speedie
 
how can i prerach to the non believer
it makes no differance what i post as can be percieved from other posts
if you all seem to adhere to liquid inoculation so be it
please do us all a justice and check who=s beer won medals using pisshand powered lowerly yeast
you may be totaly :lol: freraking suprised
 
how can i prerach to the non believer
it makes no differance what i post as can be percieved from other posts
if you all seem to adhere to liquid inoculation so be it
please do us all a justice and check who=s beer won medals using pisshand powered lowerly yeast
you may be totaly :lol: freraking suprised

lol, are you going to try and turn this into a "dry yeast won comps, so it's clearly awesome" thread?

I've used both and they both have their place.
 
WTF, please explain speedie.

Start a thread yourself and ask that very question. Maybe you will be the one who is surpised. Or read this thresd in it's entirety, no-one has bagged either method from memory.
 
without pointing fingers the likes of boss ( or any other bussiness provider )has more to gain by the sale of a smack pack than piss hand poorly rated dried yeast
just ask mr chris white
 
For the record, I obviously have access to all the liquid yeasts I could want, but I still use dried when their is one that gives the character I'm after.

I've been talking to a very senior brewer who has strong contacts within the Belgian beer industry & he informs me that dried WB-06 is becoming very popular there (including trappist breweries) for a multitude of beer styles.


cheers Ross

I have used the wb-06 a few times and many times different liquid yeasts to try produce a good weizen, sometimes I do sometimes I dont with liquid, the few times I used 06 it was outstanding.
:icon_offtopic:
These dry yeasts are becoming very expensive though at around $6-7 a packet, no slanting no splitting doesnt seem to make much sense when one can split a liquid and have 1st gen yeast over and over again, for a dry one has to run the risk of slurrying.
 
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