Kettle To Cube Transfer Problems

[beerbog]

Truman - I'll show you how I whirlpool at the case swap but the advice to wait before whirlpooling then wait again is sound.

I owe it to Fents who showed me the method. Works a treat.

Work from the outside in. :beerbang:

 

[manticle]

I think this is one thing I was totally missing out on until now. My friend's wort, using ZERO whirlfloc/irish moss is clearer than mine... Actually, its clear enough to read through. Good ol 3v brewer, nothing fancy. I noticed he gave it a good whirlpool, put the lid on and walked away for a while, when we looked at it again it was clear, the trub was in a definite cone.

I wonder if using flowers will still leave me a good 'cone'. Last time it was a nice 'cake'. I think it soaked up a LOT of wort.

My understanding is that the irish moss/whirlfloc/carageegan simply coagulates the proteins which facilitates them dropping out of solution. Whirlpooling physically forces those particles into a compact shape in the centre. Therefore you can still form a cone without whirlfloc.

 

[Truman42]

You'll also need to steal invest in a top quality milk crate.

Every one knows you need a milk crate to be a decent brewer. Colour is very important. NEVER under any circumstance use a red one. They are really gay, and will mean your beer will be ****. Only use the black ones. The red ones will mean a faster brewday but you'll sacrifice quality in the end product.

You don't really need to use the crate per se, it just needs to be somewhere in your brewery. Mine supports my HLT.

my beers have damatically increased in quality, and my friends can tell the difference now that my milk crate is black.

Spray painting a red one black is also not an option.

Do green and grey ones make me a good brewer??

View attachment 50652

 

[Truman42]

I prefer to keep hot break out of my cube. I don't believe it's to do with clarity (although hot break can supposedly contribute to haze) - more staling compounds and off flavours.

Truman - I'll show you how I whirlpool at the case swap but the advice to wait before whirlpooling then wait again is sound.

I owe it to Fents who showed me the method. Works a treat.

Cheers mate, look forward to it.

 

[Rowy]

I've just realised what I've been doing wrong. Two milk crates both blue! How could I be so stupid. Thanks for the tip big Nath.

 

[JDW81]

I've just realised what I've been doing wrong. Two milk crates both blue! How could I be so stupid. Thanks for the tip big Nath.

I store my bottled beer in blue milk crates, will that affect the quality? I'd hate to let something as simple as using the wrong coloured crate to ruin my beer.

 

[Thefatdoghead]

Every one knows you need a milk crate to be a decent brewer. Colour is very important. NEVER under any circumstance use a red one. They are really gay, and will mean your beer will be ****. Only use the black ones. The red ones will mean a faster brewday but you'll sacrifice quality in the end product.

Bloody hell!! Mine is RED!!! It's just going to have to do for now.......it doesn't even make the day go faster either. Must have a shonkey crate or something?? Anyone else have problems with their red crates not making things go faster?? :blink:

 

[stux]

I use a black crate to support the handy pail under my mill. Hmmm I think it may be affecting the quality of the grind...

 

[pokolbinguy]

Ive got a few milk crates in the shed but f@#k me it didnt help me drain my kettle the other day. Might have to get them out and sit on them or something to make sure their "aura" is fulling surrounding the brewery.

 

[bignath]

I use a black crate to support the handy pail under my mill. Hmmm I think it may be affecting the quality of the grind...

Yeah but it will affecting it in a good way. It will be heaps worse if you switch crates, or god forbid decide not to use one at all.

 

[Bongchitis]

Cheers mate, look forward to it.

It was changing from using 1/2 tab to using 1/4 tab of whirlfloc per 23L batch and Manticle/Fents whirlpool method that finally got me a decent trub cone and reasonble settling times in my 50L keggle. I now own a BM but still wait ~20 mins from element off for convection to die and then whirlpool.... and then wait another 15-20min. Temp into the cube is still high 80's and no trub.

The method involved above is basically whip the spoon around the centre as fast as you can making as fast a whirlpool as possible. I was worried about breaking up the flocs of trub and break at first with such a violent action but worked a treat for me.

Experimentation with your system and a whole load of patience is advantageous in all ares of brewing, no less this area

Edit: Speelingk and to say that my crates are red h34r: