Kegmenter transfer to keg: excessive foaming in transfer line

[mtb]

I have a few of these 26L Kegmenters from iBrew (no affiliation but for $180 a pop I'm seriously considering selling my cornies and using these for fermenting as well as dispensing, eliminating the need for keg transfer at all.. but I digress). Currently I ferment in the Kegmenter with a spunding valve set to 10psi @ 18C, so a relatively low carb level, and then transfer to a purged corny keg. When I do a keg transfer using 1m beer line with beer disconnects at both ends, I get excessive foaming in the line - as soon as the beer exits the Kegmenter - and results in excessive foaming in the destination keg.

Items of note;
- Temp of all equipment is relatively equal, ie room temp
- Diameter of beer line is 6mm
- I de-pressurise the Kegmenter and gas it back up to 30kPA, my logic there being that I want to minimise splashing in the destination keg
- I tried upping the pressure in the Kegmenter but this didn't reduce the foaming (not sure why it would but I tried it anyway).

What am I missing? If somebody wants to tell me to simply sell my cornies and buy more Kegmenters, I'll be happy with that as a solution too. SWMBO can't argue with the collective advice of AHB* h34r:

*she most certainly will but to no avail

 

[pcqypcqy]

If I get foaming in the line when transferring, it's usually a sign that something is clogged somewhere in the kegmenter.

I've had the following issues on various transfers, even after snipping 20mm off the bottom of the tube.

• loose dry hop clogging dip tub / poppets
• bagged dry hop (in nylon stocking) getting sucked halfway up dip tube
• deeper than anticipated yeast cake clogging bottom of dip tube

So I'd be looking for culprits on the supply side and see if anything shows up.

 

[Maheel]

have you crashed chill or are you transferring at 18C ?

i transfer at less than 3 and have not had issues....

my kegmenter is a 50lkeg and line is maybe 10mm OD coupler to a ball lock

 

[2cranky]

I gravity feed from bottom of FV to keg through beer out.

But if you are doing a pressurized setup would you do it the same way they transfer to minikegs etc.
pressure both the same,
connect beer out to beer out & gas in to gas in,
put empty keg low and give the release valve a short lift to start the flow.

then it should transfer under gravity and no foam.

 

[blotto]

Is your target keg also at pressure? I think you need both at the same pressure and slowly bleed off the pressure in the target keg.

 

[mtb]

All very fair points.. I think I'd best do some tinkering, particularly with pressurising the destination keg. Hadn't thought of that.

 

[2cranky]

There's a post here some where on filling mini kegs

The gas connection between the two lets the gas from the target keg move into the origin keg as it fills.
So the whole lot transfers in a closed system.
The amount of height between the two kegs will determine the speed of the flow.

 

[Danscraftbeer]

re- blotto's question. Do have spunding valve on the receiving keg? I set that to release at say~ 6-7 psi ( ~43 KPA) and reg on the co2 bottle can be up to 15 psi. The spunding valve can vary a bit and need adjusting for a while at first then finds and equilibrium.
Transfer cold or warm but cold is better. It shows the condensation line of the beer. Warm transfer I place keg on bathroom scales as a beer weight reference.

ah, didn't see last coincided posts I think we found the problem. Pressure ferment finished carbonated beer needs pressure transfers.

 

[mtb]

I think part of my problem is transferring warm beer, I'd best cold crash it before transferring. Will be doing so this weekend

 

[Danscraftbeer]

http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/89407-kegmenter-are-they-good-to-use/page-2

 

[Danscraftbeer]

I think part of my problem is transferring warm beer, I'd best cold crash it before transferring. Will be doing so this weekend

Actually I'm now opting to transfer warm, at ferment temps now because it takes a shitload of electricity to chill my 50lt kegmenter in the temp control fridge I have. I often store the kegs at room temps for longer time conditioning anyhow. Then chill them in the more power efficient beer fridge/kegerator and good to drink on tap.

This is a better option as in I can 2 different brews at different stages because I can fit a slim 23lt corny (kegmenter) in the temp controlled fridge as well. So now my guzzling temp controlled fridge is only minimally powered for stable Ale temps. No cold crashing in the guzzler fridge it can take a week to properly cold crash a 50lt kegmenter. Maybe $50 bucks worth of electricity on top your Ingredients bill etc.

 

[2cranky]

I think part of my problem is transferring warm beer, I'd best cold crash it before transferring. Will be doing so this weekend

Yeah I chill to 5 and then gel and chill to 2. then I transfer. Last couple of batches I've left the gel out so just chill to 2. Just about to go keg my session IPA.

 

[Danscraftbeer]

Re- the transfer at all question is yes IMO. Get it off the lees/yeast cake etc.
I know people do ferment, naturally carbonate, chill and serve it all in the one vessel. That's what the pricey little Beer machines do but as for longer storage and conditioning goes then transferring off the yeast cake/Lees is the better, more professional way to go.

 

[Grott]

Your on the right track mtb, great as fermenter - dispenser all in one. I've invested too much in kegs to change and my current set up suits. Any party kegs if you sell? You know the 10 litre ones that shrink to 9.5. Ha ha

 

[Grott]

Ps :- with night time temps in Canberra these days you could crash outside overnight?!

 

[mtb]

Your on the right track mtb, great as fermenter - dispenser all in one. I've invested too much in kegs to change and my current set up suits. Any party kegs if you sell? You know the 10 litre ones that shrink to 9.5. Ha ha

If you'd like a refund on that keg.. let me know and I'll be happy to facilitate
I'll have a few party kegs, definitely. Picked up a brand new 10L stainless keg for $60 off Gumtree recently so I'd say my keg needs are covered

 

[Grott]

No it's a top keg thanks. Bargain new one for $60, you must have seen it as soon as advertised.

 

[mtb]

Good ol' Gumtree saved searches. It retails for ~$160 so definitely happy with it.

 

[Maheel]

Maybe $50 bucks worth of electricity on top your Ingredients bill etc.

Ive got one of those plug in power meter things at work, next ferment i will run it the full length and test that...

yeah pressure the receiving keg then put the spunding onto it at "closed / high pressure".
go easy or you shoot gas into the kegementer
set everything up and open the spund to let beer "into" the keg


I have popped the PRV open on the rec-keg to speed up once running and not noticed foam

 

[Danscraftbeer]

I have popped the PRV open on the rec-keg to speed up once running and not noticed foam

Yeah me too. Its a user judgment thing. Near filled I take off the spunding valve so if there is a bit of foam (head) on top of the transferred beer (as there should be) then it wont spit through the spunding valve. Just let it fill pressured until it stops. Then little releases of the PRV to get the last maximum fill.