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Hi @KegLand-com-au -- I've got the RAPT Pill and fitted the wireless charger. I've recalibrated twice, first a simple and now a two-point, but the readings are way off. The first brew I post-fitting the Pill was 25 points low. The current brew after a two-point calibration is now sitting about 55 points high. Once the current brew is done I'll do another thorough recalibration, but any tips?
With respect to the RAPT Pill Hydrometer generally speaking it's highly accurate once you do the two point calibration process but this statement has two exceptions:
1. If you have dried up crap stock on the surface of the pill. Clearly this will effect how it's floating. Also if you dry hop and the pill is sitting in a big crust of dry hops that have floated to the top of the fermenter this will effect results too.
2. The other major thing that can effect accuracy is when you open and close the housing. As you have stated you are using the wireless charger so now that this is the case you should never ever have to open up the pill housing at all. Clearly if you open and close the housing and it's not done up to the same "tightness" or the board or battery is in a different position this can require you to re-calibrate. Sounds like this is not the issue for you as I doubt you would have opened up the case if you are using the wireless charger.
 
Can you send us a photo of the pill in the fermenter?
I'll do this tonight. No dry hops involved, and can appreciate the krausen crud effect might have changed the degree out. Is there a recommended difference between the two points for calibration? My two were 1.000 and 1.004 so wonder if it needed to be wider. I haven't opened the pill since i put in the charger and replaced the big magnets with the two smaller ones from the kit - once fermentation is done I'll check if one or both havent come loose too. The pill is feeding data to a RAPT controller via Bluetooth so there shouldnt be any network issues I'd hope.
 
I'll do this tonight. No dry hops involved, and can appreciate the krausen crud effect might have changed the degree out. Is there a recommended difference between the two points for calibration? My two were 1.000 and 1.004 so wonder if it needed to be wider. I haven't opened the pill since i put in the charger and replaced the big magnets with the two smaller ones from the kit - once fermentation is done I'll check if one or both havent come loose too. The pill is feeding data to a RAPT controller via Bluetooth so there shouldnt be any network issues I'd hope.
Ideally you want the two points to be around OG and FG. So 1.000 and 1.040-1.060 ish. I normally use the sanitizer at 1.000 and the hydrometer reading of the wort just before pitching.
 
Ideally you want the two points to be around OG and FG. So 1.000 and 1.040-1.060 ish. I normally use the sanitizer at 1.000 and the hydrometer reading of the wort just before pitching.

Yes that is correct. This is a much better process.

Your previous calibration points of 1.000 and 1.004 are way too close together.

https://www.kegland.com.au/cdn/shop...rometer_and_Thermometer_Quick_Start_Guide.pdf

I would follow the "advanced calibration" method in the manual above
 
Certainly a bunch of krausen crud, wyeast 1728 does go off. The pic where you can see red is after a shake, and I've given it another one since. It's changed the reading a bit. I'll recalibrate before next pitch but it does seem to not like the change to cordless. And i did make the coil dead centre.
 

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Certainly a bunch of krausen crud, wyeast 1728 does go off. The pic where you can see red is after a shake, and I've given it another one since. It's changed the reading a bit. I'll recalibrate before next pitch but it does seem to not like the change to cordless. And i did make the coil dead centre.
Even after a decent shaking of stuff off the Pill, it's dropped back to reading pretty much what it did when it was covered in krud. Given that the fermentation was almost done when i did the shake, at best the krud was worth maybe 2 points difference.
 
Even after a decent shaking of stuff off the Pill, it's dropped back to reading pretty much what it did when it was covered in krud. Given that the fermentation was almost done when i did the shake, at best the krud was worth maybe 2 points difference.

To keep the instruction manual simple we say use the two point calibration method with 1.000 being one calibration point and 1.040-1.060 being the second calibration point. With that said if you want a more complete answer then:

Calibration point 1
- best to use the 1.000 as stated previously

Calibration point 2
- ask yourself what is the highest gravity beer you can see yourself doing and then choose this as the second calibration point.

This is probably a more complete answer and if you take this approach then this will give you the highest accuracy. The only reason we say 1.040 - 1.060 in the instruction manual is because that is the highest gravity that most home brewers use.
 
To keep the instruction manual simple we say use the two point calibration method with 1.000 being one calibration point and 1.040-1.060 being the second calibration point. With that said if you want a more complete answer then:

Calibration point 1
- best to use the 1.000 as stated previously

Calibration point 2
- ask yourself what is the highest gravity beer you can see yourself doing and then choose this as the second calibration point.

This is probably a more complete answer and if you take this approach then this will give you the highest accuracy. The only reason we say 1.040 - 1.060 in the instruction manual is because that is the highest gravity that most home brewers use.
Thanks, I didn't go back to the instructions after I fitted the wireless unit. I have just had another look and will see how I can work this ahead of the next batch. Thanks for your help.
 
Hi I’ve recently purchased a couple of KL20749 black/yellow duotight disconnects which fit perfectly on the Beer outposts. I also picked up a couple of KL29756 grey/red disconnects which fit both gas (in) and beer (out) posts is this normal please ?
 
As I understand it, they are all interchangeable, the colour coding is just to help you with keeping those lines separate when you brew.

Yellow for beer, as beer is yellow and red for gas
 
As I understand it, they are all interchangeable, the colour coding is just to help you with keeping those lines separate when you brew.

Yellow for beer, as beer is yellow and red for gas
The disconnects and posts are NOT interchangeable. Liquid is for liquid. Gas is for Gas.

The carbonation caps are the ones that are interchangeable....
 
Yep that’s what I thought but mine are ???

https://www.kegland.com.au/products/red-ball-lock-plastic-carbonation-cap-x-6-35mm-duotight
https://www.kegland.com.au/products/yellow-ball-lock-plastic-carbonation-cap-x-6-35mm-duotight

These red and yellow carbonation caps are designed to be interchageable with black and grey disconnects.

We have specifically done this so customers using the fermenters and other products are able to do things like push gas down the liquid dip tube to clear it out and dose liquid into the gas post. The colours red and yellow are really only so customers have some way to indicate which one they have connected the dip tube to.
 
https://www.kegland.com.au/products/red-ball-lock-plastic-carbonation-cap-x-6-35mm-duotight
https://www.kegland.com.au/products/yellow-ball-lock-plastic-carbonation-cap-x-6-35mm-duotight

These red and yellow carbonation caps are designed to be interchageable with black and grey disconnects.

We have specifically done this so customers using the fermenters and other products are able to do things like push gas down the liquid dip tube to clear it out and dose liquid into the gas post. The colours red and yellow are really only so customers have some way to indicate which one they have connected the dip tube to.
Discussion was on the disconnects not the carb caps. There is confusion out there because the colour coding of the carb caps has only been for indication purposes (i.e. they have always been interchangeable).

The newer disconnects (black/yellow - liquid and grey/red - gas) themselves you/kegland have previously confirmed are not designed to be interchangeable (unless the post/carb cap itself accepts both gas and liquid). As per DJ_L3ThALs post
The disconnects and posts are NOT interchangeable. Liquid is for liquid. Gas is for Gas.

The carbonation caps are the ones that are interchangeable....
 
https://www.kegland.com.au/products/red-ball-lock-plastic-carbonation-cap-x-6-35mm-duotight
https://www.kegland.com.au/products/yellow-ball-lock-plastic-carbonation-cap-x-6-35mm-duotight

These red and yellow carbonation caps are designed to be interchageable with black and grey disconnects.

We have specifically done this so customers using the fermenters and other products are able to do things like push gas down the liquid dip tube to clear it out and dose liquid into the gas post. The colours red and yellow are really only so customers have some way to indicate which one they have connected the dip tube to.
My question is in relation to the red/grey duotight disconnects mine fit both the in and out posts of kegland corny Kegs ?
 
I see Keg King are now going to produce their own FWK's. Is there any chance you are going to follow suit?
With Grain and Grape I heard that Kegland have bought their brewery and rights to their FWK so I expect the answer is yes.

Maybe they can confirm or correct any misunderstandinig.
 
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