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It'd be nice if you could consider some additional features as well, I'd love;
  • A purpose built gas board, or the option to mount a gas board with secondary regulators that doesn't involve penetrating the internal liner (and perhaps damaging something)
  • Multiple gas bottle external mounting, for 6kg bottles (or 1 6kg and 1 2.6kg). It'd be great to have a CO2 bottle and N2 etc mounted
  • Energy efficiency, highly insulated and default non-glass door

Yes these are good points. The multiple gas bottle mounting config would be nice. Yes I would also agree with non-glass door as default. The foam filled doors have higher tooling cost to begin with but they generally have lower unit cost once production is scaled up to reasonable volumes. So we would be keen to do foam filled door. They definitely save power too.

Gas board would be not a bad idea either. The commercial gas boards are really expensive to build however we can make a gas board like this one and the main difference with this type and the large commercial type is that the flow rate is slower:
kl15035_-_duotight_inline_regulator_-_with_integrated_gauge_-_mounted_to_gas_board_medium_.jpg


These use the inline regulators.
KegLand Questions and Answers

I don't think the slower flow rate is really a big issue as most guys at home are not pulling many beers at once at the same time one after the other so if the keg takes 5 seconds to recover after you pour a pint it's probably not a big deal.

Do you think you would be happy with a 4 output gas board like this?
 
I really liked the idea of the gas line-in with the PET carb lid, however this only allows one line-in.

Many users will want more than one line-in and won't want to drill a hole in the unit to do this.

E.g. Sparkling water line-in for the carbonation reactor, multiple externally mounted secondary regs, nitro etc. It sounds like CJW is talking about mounting this in the fridge, but why not outside with a better bulkhead configuration?

What about a fermzilla lid on the back of the unit? You could make an insulated replaceable insert that goes inside the fermzilla lid (already in your arsenal) to mitigate heat loss. This would provide, as a starting point, 2x line-ins with the carb cap method, and no-one would have qualms about drilling additional holes in this replaceable lid to install duotight bulkheads for additional line-ins.

This is not a bad idea but the issue with having these hardware in the lid is that it means the lid needs to be thicker. One of the issues that we always have with the standard kegerator format is to meet the minimum 710mm internal fridge height (so you can take all keg types) while also ensuring that the external of the fridge is not higher than 900mm. This height constraint is important for customers who want to build them under bar so they can have the font sitting ontop of the bar. With the RAPT Fermentation chamber this is an upright format so we do not have the height constraints so this is possible.

We could mount the gas board onto the inside or outside of the fridge door. This would take up some fridge space but it would be possible solution too.
 
I am in the process of building a large fermenting cabinet that can carry 8 plastic fermenters. My problem is buying a refrigeration unit that can keep the unit at a constant temperature for fermenting.
Is this something you guys can get your hands on? It would be like stand alone refrigeration unit that you could install into any box or unit for cooling.

It's something we have been asked for before. We will look into it.
 
I do really like the idea of KegLand making a larger multi-keg fridge. Personally I really liked the look of the RAPT fermentation fridge/chamber as a multi-keg unit. The flexibility to hold multiple kegs of different sizes and in different configurations is really nice. Four full size and I think either 2 or 4 additional half size kegs? It seems like that’s a unit that’s already designed and almost in production so adapting that for a multi-keg Kegerator would be really easy. The downside is how tall it is. But I would love to see a Multi-tap font (6 or 8?) mounted to the door of one of those!View attachment 117881

Yes we have some more compact through door taps that we are looking to produce soon. I think they will be released shortly after the RAPT fridge is released then you would have to drill holes in the door for the taps yourself.

Kee
 
Ta. Not sure they're available in NZ. More wondering if KegLand might be doing something nearer 10L in the future

Yes we will have some 8L plastic ones available soon. We will sell these 8L plastic kegs for less than $5 each. They will not be released until the end of the year.
 
Hey @KegLand-com-au, any chance of a low-profile A-type keg coupler, along the lines of the Micromatic or Krome Dispense D-type ones?

D System - Keg Coupler - Low Profile

Cheers

This is a bit more tricky to make than the d-type ones. As you know the a-type keg coupler doesn't rotate to engage like the d-type coupler. With that said a lower profile one should be possible but it might require a significantly different design.

With that said all the kegerators that we make all fit the a-type kegs at the moment as long as you use the low profile elbow.
 
Do you think you would be happy with a 4 output gas board like this?

Yep, that would be great. And if anyone wanted a commercial secondary they would have the mounting points for a gas board of their own design (bonus points if you sold "blank" boards too). :p
 
Hi Kegland, I've had a BZ35 3.0 for a year and a bit and the bottom screen (pump filter) has never really sat right. If I whirlpool using a spoon, it will lift up off the bottom and sort of float around. I've also noticed that it dances off the bottom while running a full boil. It seems the fit isn't quite snug enough (there's a few mm either side). Are there any solutions to this? I remember Gash mentioning in one of his videos that some people tie weights to the bottom of it, but I'm hoping there's a better alternative.
 
Yes these are good points. The multiple gas bottle mounting config would be nice. Yes I would also agree with non-glass door as default. The foam filled doors have higher tooling cost to begin with but they generally have lower unit cost once production is scaled up to reasonable volumes. So we would be keen to do foam filled door. They definitely save power too.

Gas board would be not a bad idea either. The commercial gas boards are really expensive to build however we can make a gas board like this one and the main difference with this type and the large commercial type is that the flow rate is slower:
kl15035_-_duotight_inline_regulator_-_with_integrated_gauge_-_mounted_to_gas_board_medium_.jpg


These use the inline regulators.
KegLand Questions and Answers

I don't think the slower flow rate is really a big issue as most guys at home are not pulling many beers at once at the same time one after the other so if the keg takes 5 seconds to recover after you pour a pint it's probably not a big deal.

Do you think you would be happy with a 4 output gas board like this?
Yes we have some more compact through door taps that we are looking to produce soon. I think they will be released shortly after the RAPT fridge is released then you would have to drill holes in the door for the taps yourself.

Kee
Yep, I think that would just about do it. A RAPT fridge able to hold 6-8 kegs, mounts for both C02 and Nitro tanks, a gas board able to accommodate multiple PSI ranges, good insulation in the door, multiple compact taps in the door, have it plumbed through the wall into the kitchen sink for my carbonated water... that would be a worthy successor for my current Kegerator!! I would probably then turn the V4 kegerator into a fermentation/cold crash fridge.
 
Hi Kegland, I've had a BZ35 3.0 for a year and a bit and the bottom screen (pump filter) has never really sat right. If I whirlpool using a spoon, it will lift up off the bottom and sort of float around. I've also noticed that it dances off the bottom while running a full boil. It seems the fit isn't quite snug enough (there's a few mm either side). Are there any solutions to this? I remember Gash mentioning in one of his videos that some people tie weights to the bottom of it, but I'm hoping there's a better alternative.

We generally do not whirlpool as the screen tends to prevent most of the solids from exiting via the pump. We also notice the same thing and the screen does float up a little during vigorous boil but with that said it doesnt seem to prevent the screen from filtering a lot of the hop material out. Yes you can weigh the screen down but if it just jiggling around a bit while large bubbles are pushing it up I probably would not be too concerned about it.

I also continue to keep re-circulating the pump even after the boil and I find that even if a small amount of solids get under the screen they are often picked up by the pump then put back into the top of the boiler where they get filtered out.
 
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