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FYI

I'd think there'd be a pretty decent market for pre-wired PID control boxes, for both the homebrewing and distilling worlds.

The "sweet" spot would be a 20A capable device, a decent PID with rotary knob, appropriate safety switches/breakers, with two individual output circuits (to drive an element and a pump).

Basically something like this:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=64_65
 
"Dual Exposed Element Control (2300w & 1000w) Step timing and delay start feature." is quoted on their page.
But the pic shows switches for 500w, 1000w and 2000w.
upload_2018-11-13_10-24-27.png
 
Ahh I see. Does that mean they might be dodgy with a boil over?
They have some kind of rubber seal on them for protection so are probably less dodgy than my switches if there's a boilover.
But wort and electricity don't mix well in direct contact.
 
I recently got a triple tap kegerator and was setting it up today. I tried to attach the regulator to the CO2 bottle, with the outlet connected to some line and a gas disconnect. The regulator knob was screwed all the way off. When I open the gas bottle valve the outlet pressure shoots way up and the regulator relief valve continuously pops open. Is this faulty, or have I made some rookie error?

I have raised this issue through your website. Hopefully get a response.
 
That unit Kee has in the vid might be a prototype. That was one of the causes of the delays, they couldn't get low enough density elements to be concealed so they had to go exposed.

The other advantage of exposed elements is they can be replaced easily. Magicalpancake put up a vid of him replacing his element in his guten (which he had to get from the manufacturer under warranty). It involved a bit of mucking around so it can be done but you can't buy the base that the element is attached to. So unless you can get the parts it becomes a throw away item.

The down side for exposed elements is that it makes cleaning a bit harder.
 
That unit Kee has in the vid might be a prototype. That was one of the causes of the delays, they couldn't get low enough density elements to be concealed so they had to go exposed.

The other advantage of exposed elements is they can be replaced easily. Magicalpancake put up a vid of him replacing his element in his guten (which he had to get from the manufacturer under warranty). It involved a bit of mucking around so it can be done but you can't buy the base that the element is attached to. So unless you can get the parts it becomes a throw away item.

The down side for exposed elements is that it makes cleaning a bit harder.

They're not exposed elements, they're low watt density concealed elements.

The site hasn't been updated as they are flat out trying to keep up with the Christmas rush.
 
Any feedback on how long the neoprene parka for mini kegs keeps beer cold for? Is there space to put ice packs down the side of the kegs, or is it pretty snug?

https://www.kegland.com.au/glow-in-the-dark-mini-keg-neoprene-keg-parka-jacket-8-10l-kegs.html

Not Kegland, but the cooling properties vary depending on ambient temp, whether your keg is in sun or shade etc. etc.
They look pretty snug so most likely no room for ice packs but you could stack them around it.
I use part of an old neoprene camp bed underlay with tie straps so can put ice packs inside if I like.
 
I recently got a triple tap kegerator and was setting it up today. I tried to attach the regulator to the CO2 bottle, with the outlet connected to some line and a gas disconnect. The regulator knob was screwed all the way off. When I open the gas bottle valve the outlet pressure shoots way up and the regulator relief valve continuously pops open. Is this faulty, or have I made some rookie error?

Regulators are the opposite to taps. So what we mean by that is when you turn the regulator clockwise this would normally close the tap but with a regulator this means maximum pressure. I think you will find a +/- sign on the handle also showing this too. So it's best to start with the knob of the regulator out of the regulator then once you have it connected to the gas cyliner and the gas is turned on then gradually turn the knob clockwise to increase pressure.
 
@KegLand-com-au What is your warranty for kegerators? i think the compressor on my 2 tap system has died.

The thing is barely 6 months old.

Edit*** Phew... false alarm, being that it was a warmer day in Adelaide it must have been working flat out, the sides were hot to the touch and went up to 9°C. After about half an hour the compressor kicked in again and now everything is sweet as.

As it's currently out in the man cave/ shed i may have to bring it inside before summer really kicks off.

Are both sides well ventilated. We recommend both left and right hand side of the fridge have 100mm clearance to get good airflow. If you have good airflow you will get much better electrical efficiency and cooling performance. The fridges can cool in quite hot ambient temperatures. Can you send us a photo of the setup? Are you sure the door was not open? Do you have excessive ice on the back plate of the fridge.
 
Ahh I see. Does that mean they might be dodgy with a boil over?


Sure does! Thanks

We went with these switches as they were more waterproof than the previous ones. So although we would never recommend getting liquid on any of the electrical switches these have proven to be more resistant to moisture and they have been the best switches that we have found.

We did do a lot of testing with elements and this was one of the reasons why the 65L Robobrew took so long to come out. One of the major advantages with the Robobrew 65L is the ultra low watt density. It's probably the lowest watt density out of any of the single vessel breweries in Australia. The first units that we made had exposed elements and this was the only way we could get the watt density low enough but it made cleaning harder. So eventually new tooling for the concealed element was made and a new ultra low watt density casting was manufactured for this brewery and this tool a lot of time and testing to get right.
 
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