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Yes we are going to distribute the BrewBuilt fermenters and stainless hardware in Australia. We did contemplate stocking things like SS BrewTech but the price is high and I think the quality is not even as good as the BrewBuilt gear so we have decided to stock BrewBuilt instead.

Nice to hear, any ETA on when you expect gear to land? I'd also suggest an alternative cooling solution ... their Cool Stick thing doesn't seem adequate for local conditions, especially cold crashing larger batches.
 
I am all for more 4" TC compatible fermentation attachments - one with an inexpensive dry hop / fruiting port could be interesting.

For anyone interested in the Brewbuilt fermentation gear (they are a morebeer brand from the US), here's an entertainingly similar post to one you'd find on this forum: Spike CF5 vs Brewbuilt X1 Unti-Tank

In any case, that whole HBT thread is probably worth a read to anyone considering the BB unitank when it is available locally.

Yes this is an interseting thread. The BrewBuilt products are fairly new to the market in comparison to Spike and SS Brew Tech things are moving with BrewBuilt quite fast and even these commens in this older forum post are not correct anymore. More Beer is pretty much the largest distributor of home brew gear in America I the management at More Beer have already made it clear to us that they are continuing to develope the range and I am confident the sales of the BrewBuilt stuff will eventually surpass the SS Brew Tech and Spike as more accessories and better designs are released.
 
What sizes will you carry and which sizes will fit in the RAPT fermentation chamber?

We will stock the BrewBuilt X1 Conicals in the 7Gallon, 14Gallon, 27Gallon, 42Gallon sizes.


The 7 and 14 Gallon tanks should fit but I have not actually tried this myself but based on the dimensions these two should be fine.
 
Nice to hear, any ETA on when you expect gear to land? I'd also suggest an alternative cooling solution ... their Cool Stick thing doesn't seem adequate for local conditions, especially cold crashing larger batches.

More Beer will soon release a new cooling coil that will look very similar to the Temp Twister however it will be welded into the lid of the 4inch tri-clover. The same lids will then also be compatible with the Kegmenters as well.
 
@KegLand-com-au - regarding the use of your Core 360 Regulator. I have connected this with your 74g c02 cartridges, which works great right until it's time to disconnect the cartridge. Can you please tell me how to properly disconnect the cartridge? It's impossible to simply turn the thumbscrew anti-clockwise to release the pin and if I unscrew the cartridge with the thumbscrew pin still engaged I lose the entire contents of the bulb. What am I doing wrong here?
 
With the G20 Chillers We do have an isolated relay already on the board for these. So if you are ok with the wiring it's not that difficult to wire up a DC or AC device to this. Basically you connect the neutral/negative to the heating device then the active/positive through the relay and that's it. If you need more assistance with this best to probably email us with the parts you have with photos then we can give you some further advice over email to suit your particular wiring.
I don't have anything as yet. Planning if I want to go down that route.

If I was I would look at using your 30w heating wrap mat. That's not something you would look at selling with the wiring ready to attach to a G20?
 
@KegLand-com-au - regarding the use of your Core 360 Regulator. I have connected this with your 74g c02 cartridges, which works great right until it's time to disconnect the cartridge. Can you please tell me how to properly disconnect the cartridge? It's impossible to simply turn the thumbscrew anti-clockwise to release the pin and if I unscrew the cartridge with the thumbscrew pin still engaged I lose the entire contents of the bulb. What am I doing wrong here?
I thought those 74g bulbs were just like the 16g versions, one you puncture the bulb you can't remove it without the gas escaping as there's no valve. If you want be able to remove the bottle you need a soda stream bottle which has a valve in the top.
 
We will stock the BrewBuilt X1 Conicals in the 7Gallon, 14Gallon, 27Gallon, 42Gallon sizes.
The 7 and 14 Gallon tanks should fit but I have not actually tried this myself but based on the dimensions these two should be fine.
Do we know the minimum batch size for the 14 & 27 gallon X1 conicals?
And will you be offering the neoprene jacket and any form of heating element?
 
Is there somewhere that has all the dimensions of the modular font parts?

I was thinking when my keezer dies to get a series X plus, and hoping to have a U shaped font with six taps. So double T -> single extension -> single extension -> double T. Wondering if that would fit between the two holes in the top of the x plus.
 
We only have the 19L bladders in the pipeline at the moment. If the 19L bladders are successful we will then look to make other sizes down the track.

I really like the 2L kegs and much prefer them to the other mini kegs that we have. They are a bit more expensive to manufacture but a more compact and handy size to fit into an esky.

As the 2L kegs use the same ball lock keg lid size as the 19L kegs you could use the same bladder and reduce the size of the bladder with a standard heat sealer. So if you were really desperate you could do this at home yourselves. At least until we start manufacturing other sized bladders for you.
How would the bladders work, ie do you need to pre-carbonate or can that occur in the keg also? also, would the bladder increase the life of the beer in a keg?
 
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This has probably already been asked but does the nukatap push in counter pressure filler fit in the older intertap nozzle? Is it the same nozzle as the nukatap?
 
I hope this is the right thread, sorry, I'm a noobie.

Inline Regulator HELP PLEASE!

I have Kegland's duotight Inline regulator (KL15035)setup running my two keg setup. With the idea of forced carbonating one keg when I need too and the other is set to serving pressure (7psi).
My issue is when I try and pump up the pressure for force-carbing (say 30psi), the serving regulator jumps up! And I can't seem to dial it down. It's as if the pressure equalises between the kegs
Am I missing something? Or is my regulator broken?

Also a related question... Sounds stupid, but I can't figure when the regulator is closed?
When the dial is at it's 'highest' and twists all the way out? Or when the dial is turned all the way down?

Thanks in advance.
 
I hope this is the right thread, sorry, I'm a noobie.

Inline Regulator HELP PLEASE!

I have Kegland's duotight Inline regulator (KL15035)setup running my two keg setup. With the idea of forced carbonating one keg when I need too and the other is set to serving pressure (7psi).
My issue is when I try and pump up the pressure for force-carbing (say 30psi), the serving regulator jumps up! And I can't seem to dial it down. It's as if the pressure equalises between the kegs
Am I missing something? Or is my regulator broken?

Also a related question... Sounds stupid, but I can't figure when the regulator is closed?
When the dial is at it's 'highest' and twists all the way out? Or when the dial is turned all the way down?

Thanks in advance.
Below is video showing what happens after.
My setup
 
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I hope this is the right thread, sorry, I'm a noobie.

Inline Regulator HELP PLEASE!

I have Kegland's duotight Inline regulator (KL15035)setup running my two keg setup. With the idea of forced carbonating one keg when I need too and the other is set to serving pressure (7psi).
My issue is when I try and pump up the pressure for force-carbing (say 30psi), the serving regulator jumps up! And I can't seem to dial it down. It's as if the pressure equalises between the kegs
Am I missing something? Or is my regulator broken?

Also a related question... Sounds stupid, but I can't figure when the regulator is closed?
When the dial is at it's 'highest' and twists all the way out? Or when the dial is turned all the way down?

Thanks in advance.

Agreed had the same issue of which way to control the inline instructions non existent.

Can't see your video.
But make sure the inline is setup to have gas flowing from cylinder to keg with the arrow on side of the reg.
To increase the pressure setting of the inline reg turn clockwise ( same as for your cylinder reg).
If the inline regulator is downstream of the cylinder regulator ( it has to be ) and the right way round spur the line before this to the force carbing keg and the cylinder reg is your force carbing pressure.
The inline going to your serving keg you dial to your serving pressure.
 
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Agreed had the same issue of which way to control the inline instructions non existent.

Can't see your video.
But make sure the inline is setup to have gas flowing from cylinder to keg with the arrow.
To increase the pressure setting of the inline reg turn clockwise ( same as for your cylinder reg).
If the inline regulator is downstream of the cylinder regulator ( it has to be ) and the right way round spur the line before this to the force carbing keg and the cylinder reg is your force carbing pressure.
The inline going to your serving keg you dial to your serving pressure.
Thanks for the reply! Here's the video of my setup. I think I have it as you suggested.
 

Attachments

  • Regs_1.mp4
    38.7 MB
I hope this is the right thread, sorry, I'm a noobie.

Inline Regulator HELP PLEASE!

I have Kegland's duotight Inline regulator (KL15035)setup running my two keg setup. With the idea of forced carbonating one keg when I need too and the other is set to serving pressure (7psi).
My issue is when I try and pump up the pressure for force-carbing (say 30psi), the serving regulator jumps up! And I can't seem to dial it down. It's as if the pressure equalises between the kegs
Am I missing something? Or is my regulator broken?

Also a related question... Sounds stupid, but I can't figure when the regulator is closed?
When the dial is at it's 'highest' and twists all the way out? Or when the dial is turned all the way down?

Thanks in advance.

Is there any chance you can email us a video. This would make it much easier to determine the issue. If the video shows the whole setup that would be good. I am sure we can work it out but we don't quite have enough information. With regulators when you remove the adjustment knob from the regulator this is closed (ie. the no gas will pass through the regulator from the high side to the low side however it's possible at this position for gas to go in the reverse direction still unless syou have a check valve in place)
 
@KegLand-com-au - regarding the use of your Core 360 Regulator. I have connected this with your 74g c02 cartridges, which works great right until it's time to disconnect the cartridge. Can you please tell me how to properly disconnect the cartridge? It's impossible to simply turn the thumbscrew anti-clockwise to release the pin and if I unscrew the cartridge with the thumbscrew pin still engaged I lose the entire contents of the bulb. What am I doing wrong here?

With any of the disposable bulbs such as the 74gram or 16gram CO2 bulbs you cannot disconnect these once they are punctured an no spring loaded pin is inside this bulb. Once they are punctured you cannot re-seal them. These have no valve which is why they are so cheap and disposable. If you really want to be able to disconnect and reconnect a cylinder to the CORE 360 regulator then I would recommend you use one of our reusable cylinders like this sodastream type one.
 
Is there any chance you can email us a video. This would make it much easier to determine the issue. If the video shows the whole setup that would be good. I am sure we can work it out but we don't quite have enough information. With regulators when you remove the adjustment knob from the regulator this is closed (ie. the no gas will pass through the regulator from the high side to the low side however it's possible at this position for gas to go in the reverse direction still unless syou have a check valve in place)
Thanks for the reply! I'll email you the video now.
My setup
 
I am thinking of getting two Series X Kegerator base models just to use as fermenter chambers. Do you think it would be ok to stack one on top of the other?
Currently using a very large chest freezer that takes up to much space in my laundry.

 
I am thinking of getting two Series X Kegerator base models just to use as fermenter chambers. Do you think it would be ok to stack one on top of the other?
Currently using a very large chest freezer that takes up to much space in my laundry.
Why don't you go with a purpose built ferment fridge. It will be much more energy efficient with 1 single compressor operating and has the added feature of wifi if you want to use it.

https://www.kegland.com.au/rapt-temperature-controlled-fermentation-chamber-fridge.html
 
I want to have one brew conditioning while the next one is fermenting
Fair enough mate, I have a series x using as kegerator, works well. I saw reviews of them being "noisy". Not at all from my experience. Good luck, the ministress of finance would not allow me to buy equipment like that for fermentation, im jealous.
 
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