onemorecell
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did you try drilling the screws through the holes in the metal?
KegLand Questions and Answers
- Thread starter KegLand-com-au
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The screws aren't self tapping - they have a flattened tip. Thinking about slowly drill a self tapping screw in to get a thread started and then remove and continue with the proper screws.
Paranoid about clipping a wire and making the fridge live so I'm not 100% on this. If I do I will only drill the first screw in so it just breaks through the base plate. Or may just leave it with no castors.
Either way I'm not impressed.
Paranoid about clipping a wire and making the fridge live so I'm not 100% on this. If I do I will only drill the first screw in so it just breaks through the base plate. Or may just leave it with no castors.
Either way I'm not impressed.
malt and barley blues
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It definitely isn't good having to drill and tap the holes, easiest option is get self tapping screws the same length and just use them.
onemorecell
Well-Known Member
it will take thread by going into the metal... just try it?
onemorecell
Well-Known Member
Do you sell 562mm dip tubes (preferably straight)?
If not, do your dip tubes have a wider top (like little ears right near the o-ring) or are they the same width the entire way
If not, do your dip tubes have a wider top (like little ears right near the o-ring) or are they the same width the entire way
This type of flexi arm can be really useful and we have bent them quite a few times and it has not cracked yet. With that said they are designed to be bent into position and not changed regularly. The supplier of the tube has stated that they will fatigue eventually if you bend them back and forth enough especially if it's bending in a tight radius. So if you really want to move it around a lot every brew I would stick with the silicon hosing.
I have just updated the photos on the website so it's a bit more clear what we sell. So you can see that here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/stainless-keg-dip-tube-long-liquid.html
As you can see from the photos our tip tubes have a slight bend in them. If you wanted to straighten the dip tube out you can bend it straight by hand if you want to but we make them with this bend to suit our own brand new kegs.
The length is a bit longer than the 562mm so you would have to chop it down it you want it shorter and this tube cutter is the tool for the job:
https://www.kegland.com.au/tube-pipe-cutter-for-copper-stainless-aluminium-general-plumbing.html
Yes our dip tubes do have the "ears" on them and pretty much all the tubes with a bend like this have the ears so the tube is located in the correct position. Let us know if you need more info.
We have no wires in that part of the fridge so this is not an issue. Prior to filling with foam some parts of the mould are taped up to reduce the foam leaking out of the moulding. If you see either foam or this foil tap just push the screw through this and it will start threading itself. Perhaps it's best if you give us a call to explain but all the bases of the fridge have all had the base plate tapped and drilled but it might not look like it has. If you start putting the screw in it will start threading into the hole. So when you are next to the fridge can you please give us a call and we can talk you through the process over the phone.
We have already triple checked this and we are 150% sure that the holes are drilled and the thread is in place. You just need to push the bolt into the hole and this will puncture the foam and start threading into the steel. I think Because customers can only see the foam/tape they assume no steel is underneath but we can assure you that the thread is in place.
FarsideOfCrazy
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I'm not sure that you get what kegland are saying. The thread for the bolts is there, it's just been covered with foam. Just get a small nail and push it through the foam then screw the bolt in, don't put a self tapper in there as you'll damage the thread for the bolt. The foam shouldn't cause any problems with the bolt thread as it will just get squished.
Hope this helps.
Good to know there are no wires. For the record... the screws don't push through the tape. I needed to scrape it out with a sharp knife... something I was reluctant to do... and frankly shouldn't have had to do.
I understood what they were trying to say. My point is that they were
1. wrong. The screw just doesn't push through. And I wasn't about to stick a nail or screw in there without knowing what's behind it.
2. dismissive. They might have fewer issues if they listen to customers.
Anyhow, the problem got sorted eventually.
Thanks
sixfignig
Well-Known Member
@KegLand-com-au I'm running a 20A socket with 5m extension cord to power my BrewZilla. Would love a bit more "distance" (so I could brew outside), do you see any issues piggybacking 2 leads for a total of 10m of extension?
https://www.kegland.com.au/15amp-2-0mm-extension-lead-5m-with-led-light-australian-plug.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/15amp-2-0mm-extension-lead-5m-with-led-light-australian-plug.html
I am sorry if you have found us to be dismissive. We really do not want to be dismissive at all and we would like very much to resolve this. As mentioned previously if you give us a call it might be easiest and we can talk you through the process over the phone. We are quite confident that with two way phone conversation we will solve this quite fast. If we do a video call this would probably be even faster if you think we can facilitate this. Where are you located? If you are able to bring the fridge into us we could show you in person if that makes it any easier.
That is no worries at all. If you continue to lengthen the extension lead you will get slightly more losses over the cable itself but the power loss will not be significant enough to notice a difference.
No worries. I got it sorted in the end. I emailed a video showing how difficult it is to just push the screw through. I suggest you advise any other customers who have this issue to scrape out the tape and foam carefully with a sharp knife.
That's great news. To help other customers with this issue we will include this in the video that we will be releasing soon. We are going to make a video on how to setup the Series X kegerators. It's very similar to the Series 4 however things like this would be worth mentioning to assist other customers. Thanks for bringing this to our attention.
How about this product:
https://www.kegland.com.au/pco-1881-carbonation-cap-tee-piece.html
If you are using commercial keg couplers then you can use the ball lock disconnects on the end of your beer line then use the liquid and gas ball lock post on your keg coupler. This will enable you to easily switch between your home brew keg and the your wash out coke bottle.
This is by far the cheapest wash out bottle you will ever be able to purchase.
The other option is these stainless ones:
https://www.kegland.com.au/15l-wash-out-line-cleaning-keg.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/10l-wash-out-line-cleaning-keg.html
Thanks but I'm moving all my gear away from ball locks, mostly to k-lok type. So really looking for something basically identical to that micromatic one (but without needing to remortgage the house) to clean through the coupler as well as the lines. Your stainless one are fine but bigger than I need, a small cheap plastic one would be perfect.
theSeekerr
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So, speaking of those... are you still planning to bring in some bigger PET bottles? I've grabbed a few because I'm sure I'll find a use eventually, but they'd be 10x as useful with a 4L amber bottle.
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