The dry weight of the G40 is about 25kg but the weight has changed a few types due to us changing the design. So it also depends on when your unit was manufactured.
-
If you have not, please join our official Australia and New Zealand Homebrewers Facebook Group!
Australia and New Zealand Homebrewers Facebook Group
KegLand Questions and Answers
- Thread starter KegLand-com-au
- Start date
Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:
It's important to remember the set temp on the G40 is not the set temp of the desired temperature of your fermenter. Your set temp needs to be significantly colder. For instance if you want to get down to 0C in the fermenter you need to make sure the liquid in the glycol tank is -10 for instance.
Then what you would normally do is have a separate temp controller that cycles the pump on and off so when the 0C is reached in the fermenter the pump is cycled off. Is this how you have it setup. It would be handy if you can send me some photos of the whole setup and also let me know what the temperatures set point is on each controller.
It sounds like your G40 has good ventilation but I have a funny feeling that something in the setup is not quite optimised.
Also if you can tell me:
1. The l/min the liquid is flowing through your chiller coil? So in other words if you get the return hose that goes back to the G40 stick this in a bucket for 10 sec and then measure how many ml of liquid is collected.
2. If you have a temp controller then if you measure the difference in the glycol going out of the G40 and back into the G40 can you please tell me the difference in these two numbers and I can use this to work out how much heat is being absorbed by your coil.
Snake Eyed
Member
I have done all these things! I ran through an external coil and the temp is 1⁰ higher than the tank. Whilst on the phone to Henry at your shop.
It takes 4 days to get to minus 10 without a load.
THE UNIT IS SET TO MINUS 25⁰.
So if the glycol comes out of the G40 and then returns back to the G40 only 1⁰ higher then it sounds like the G40 is not really absorbing much heat from your fermenter. Do you know the flow rate of glycol through the coil? If you only see a change of 1C we probably need to make the surface area of the cooling coil a bit greater in the fermenter. Do you know how many CM^2 surface area you have on the cooling coil immersed into the liquid in the fermenter? Can you please send us this information.
The more information we have the better we can help you. I know it's a bit of a pain to measure these things but the quality of our advice is limited by the quality of the information we can collect from you.
Snake Eyed
Member
Please read, I disconnected the fermenter and ran through a hermit coil.
The way I had it set up worked fine and could crash the unitank to 0⁰ easily. Now it doesn't.
******* hoop after hoop, your unit is ****** and you won't replace it, get ****** I'll suck up the $700 and buy a SS Brewtech when they are back in stock.
Snake Eyed
Member
malt and barley blues
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 3/3/12
- Messages
- 618
- Reaction score
- 239
Snake Eyed
Member
Should of, at least they would have replaced it.
@Snake Eyed, with the unit set at -25.3, what percentage/ratio is your glycol solution?
When it did work before Christmas, was the temperature at the preset temp (-25.3)?
Also, have you measured what your solution is now?
Daz
When it did work before Christmas, was the temperature at the preset temp (-25.3)?
Also, have you measured what your solution is now?
Daz
According to my calculations you would need to have basically a 50/50 solution.
Allowing for the roughly 8 degree difference between set temp and the systems allowance/operating temperature
Allowing for the roughly 8 degree difference between set temp and the systems allowance/operating temperature
Last edited:
Snake Eyed
Member
When it worked, I had it set to minus 8 and it kept the tank at 3 degree. Once the unitank level dropped and I had dumped all the yeast, I let the unitank raise to ambient and ran the beer through the beerlines, I ran through 2 of the tap coils and the beer froze so I raised the temp and the beers poured well, even filled a couple of kegs.
Now it doesn't chill.
onemorecell
Well-Known Member
Could you try upping your glycol ratio to 50-50 and see if it works?
Have you a means of testing what ratio of water to glycol you have in the reservoir?
This is important as too much of either can lead to problems. You need the water content to freeze, too little water and your solution will warm up too quick, and likewise, too much water and your solution will ice up.
This is important as too much of either can lead to problems. You need the water content to freeze, too little water and your solution will warm up too quick, and likewise, too much water and your solution will ice up.
FarsideOfCrazy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 21/6/08
- Messages
- 700
- Reaction score
- 196
If the unit isn't getting the solution that's in there cold how is adding more glycol going to make it cold?
Read all the posts and watch the video.
Read all the posts and watch the video.
Snake Eyed
Member
I drained all the glycol yesterday because it went yellow and stank.
When it was working it was like a hard slushy.
It only has water now but it still won't chill water
It wouldn't, too much glycol and not enough water to freeze would result in not getting anywhere near the cold temperatures you need.
I personally would do a 30-33% glycol to water ratio.
The g40 has a 30Ltr capacity. So 10ltrs of glycol and 20ltrs of water. This would mean that the solution would freeze at -15'c, and allowing for the 8'c differential you can bring the solution down to -7'c to put through the fermenter.
My experience is that you need around a 5'c differential to cool, so a -7'c solution should/could be able to get your fermenter down to -2'c.
But obviously all this is moot if your chiller is not cooling the solution down to start with, which is the problem you are having
I am sorry that you feel this way and we certainly have not given up on you. With any issue that a customer has with anything we have this approach which is documented in our staff procedures:
1. Assure customer that we will find a solution
2. Diagnose the problem
3. Offer solutions:
3.1 - Return for closer diagnosis/repair if over the phone/email support cannot determine the issue
3.2 - Offer replacement or product alternative.
3.3 - Partial refund if the product has been damaged but the customer still wants to keep the product
3.4 - Full refund
So at the moment we really need to get to the bottom of stage 2 as we cannot proceed to stage 3 without proper diagnosis of the problem.
I will also add that from what I have just been told is that you did not purchase the unit from us either. Normally the first point of call would be to go to the retailer that you purchased the unit from as we also do not have any of the purchase details for the original purchase and we can't refund you if you did not purchase from us.
With that said if you have purchased a unit elsewhere we are still happy to give you whatever after sales support we can. We don't want to make you jump through hoops more than we need you to but we do need to gather information from you so we can complete stage 2 of the process above.
FarsideOfCrazy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 21/6/08
- Messages
- 700
- Reaction score
- 196
Again read the post. It doesn't have to get to -25. The unit won't even chill water do there's no chance of it getting near freezing.
Hello Snake Eyed. Apparently your email bounced last night. It would appear that we do not have your correct email. We also can't look up your email on our system as the unit was not purchased from us. To my understanding a phone message was left for you to email or call us back this morning.
Would you be able to call us when you have a chance and speak to Kee so we can resolve this. It's best to keep this to one person as if you speak to another new customer service member they will probably get you to explain the whole situation from the start again. Ideally if you could send us proof of purchase at the same time this would be ideal as it would save the back and forth.
Bump please @KegLand-com-au?
I was about to pull the trigger on one of these (Edit, was referring to G40). Glad I didn't.
Thank you for taking a bullet for the team Snake Eyed.
It shouldn't be up to the customer to diagnose a fault, past a few basic questions, which have been answered multiple times. Kegland should have had it shipped straight back for diagnostics by their own techs.
If it's ******, send a new one out. If it's user error, send it back and charge the customer shipping both ways. Pretty simple.
Using the excuse that Snake Eyed bought it from a retailer and not direct is ********. It's YOUR product and YOUR name and the way you handled it has cost you sales.
Thank you for taking a bullet for the team Snake Eyed.
It shouldn't be up to the customer to diagnose a fault, past a few basic questions, which have been answered multiple times. Kegland should have had it shipped straight back for diagnostics by their own techs.
If it's ******, send a new one out. If it's user error, send it back and charge the customer shipping both ways. Pretty simple.
Using the excuse that Snake Eyed bought it from a retailer and not direct is ********. It's YOUR product and YOUR name and the way you handled it has cost you sales.
With regards to CIP we have decided to go a different direction. The CIP on such a small tank we felt was not that necessary as most of the small tanks like FermZilla units can easily be flipped upside down by hand. CIP (cleaning in place) is absolutely necessary for large brewery tanks that simply are logistically too heavy and difficult to move.
Also on a small scale and with relatively small pumps the CIP spray balls do not work well. So if you really want the CIP spinning spray balls to work you have to get a large pump and this also seems from our perspective to be cost prohibitive and quite bulky and just not really necessary for domestic use. CIP spray balls are great for tanks 200L in size and larger or tanks that are 70cm in diameter or larger. We don't really feel they are the best solution for smaller tanks where we have found a single jet coats the whole inside of the vessel at least as well if not better.
For this reason we have decided to start selling the "Bucket Blaster Keg and Fermenter Washer Kit" and this is more versatile as it can be used for many different vessels rather than just a FermZilla attachment for just that fermenter type.
Our blow moulding plant is really busy at the moment and we had to prioritise between finishing the 8L PET plastic kegs that we will be making and also the high temperature FermZilla body. We seem to have more interest for the 8L kegs at this stage so these will be finished first and the high Temperature FermZilla body has been pushed down the list of priorities as a result.
OK no worries. I personally have a big-arse pump to use for such a purpose but understand that that's not the case for everyone. How about the tri clamp adapter for the base of the unit?
It might be worth mentioning a few points here. We don't want to disagree with Snake Eyed says but I think it would help other people on the forum to get a bit of background on the situation:
1. In order to get claim warranty claim we would normally direct the customer to the place they purchased the item as the first point of call. Generally if a retailer sells an item they would be the first point of call and the retailer would do some trouble shooting with the customer. In this instance the customer came directly to us and we have no problem with this as we support all customers who purchase our gear irrespective of where they purchased it from or which country they purchased it from. If it's got our name on it and it's genuinely our product then we will support it. Even if you purchased in America from a completely different importer then wanted assistance from our Australian office. With that said to claim warranty we still require some basics like proof of purchase.
2. We are yet to get proof of purchase from Snake Eyed so replacement without this piece of paper is not even an option yet. If you purchase from our website then the purchase information is stored in our database. If the item is purchased from another retailer you need to keep your hard copy of the invoice/receipt.
3. Diagnosis needs to be done in any warranty claim. Even though we have not got proof of purchase our customer service staff tried to assist with diagnosis anyway. The diagnosis over the phone was not conclusive as they were not able to collect the necessary information from the customer over the phone to work out what was going on. It appeared the configuration of the pump and temp control were not suitable. The customer insisted that they get a replacement sent to him. (NOTE: we have not yet even got proof of purchase and had not done proper diagnosis). This call was made on Wed and was the first correspondence with the customer.
4. Two days later we received another call on the Friday (day 3). The diagnosis process continued and once again the person who took the call was not able to get key information from the customer to diagnose the system. At this stage the customer was quite frustrated and this customer service staff recommended that the customer talk to an engineer at KegLand who might be able to resolve the problem more easily.
5. The following Monday the Engineer called and assisted with some trouble shooting over the phone. Even though no proof of purchase had been received the engineer said we would offer to get the unit shipped back to Melbourne (at no cost to the customer). To get this process started shipping labels need to be sent and this process is normally done over email. The shipping labels bounced from his email address. Tue (4 business days after the first call had been made) the engineer realised the email had bounced and made a phone call to the customer and left a message on the customers answering service to call or email back with the correct email details.
We are open to criticism just as any retailer/wholesaler/manufacturer should be and we are constantly looking for ways we can improve the customer service.
Given the above circumstances we would like to put the question out there to you guys on the forum what particular parts of our customer service do you feel need reform and what area have we failed in?
Grmblz
Well-Known Member
Proof of purchase is mandatory for any warranty claim, which is why Bunnings advise you to scan and print their receipts (which are thermo and fade with time) I do wonder why the retailer/re-seller wasn't the first port of call. I'm not accusing snake eyed of any wrong doing but it does seem a strange way of going about it, and lets not forget not everyone out there is honest or honourable.
As for your customer service I've had 3 separate issues with your products and on all occasions it was dealt with promptly and fairly, that's just my experience.
@KegLand-com-au You're making it hard for me to give you money guys, I tried to put in an order and my password was "wrong" ok no worries I'll just open another account, nope "that email is already in use" ok I'll hit the reset password and get an automated link to do that, well that was 2 hrs ago and no link received, please don't tell me it's being done manually, and of course joy of joys your site timed out and my basket is now empty. the "contact us" leads to a page that requires filling out a fair bit of info, no problem there but then gives you an ineligible captcha and when you get it wrong it clears the bloody page, ahaa but at the bottom of the page you see "FOR MULTIPLE ATTACHMENTS PLEASE EMAIL
DIRECTLY" yeh great I'll click on that, nope it's an image, how hard would it be to make it a link.
Please send me a reset password link or delete my email from your data base so I can open a new account,
Oh and while you're at it sack the muppet that's administering your web site, this is all first year web design 101 stuff.
Cheers G
As for your customer service I've had 3 separate issues with your products and on all occasions it was dealt with promptly and fairly, that's just my experience.
@KegLand-com-au You're making it hard for me to give you money guys, I tried to put in an order and my password was "wrong" ok no worries I'll just open another account, nope "that email is already in use" ok I'll hit the reset password and get an automated link to do that, well that was 2 hrs ago and no link received, please don't tell me it's being done manually, and of course joy of joys your site timed out and my basket is now empty. the "contact us" leads to a page that requires filling out a fair bit of info, no problem there but then gives you an ineligible captcha and when you get it wrong it clears the bloody page, ahaa but at the bottom of the page you see "FOR MULTIPLE ATTACHMENTS PLEASE EMAIL
Please send me a reset password link or delete my email from your data base so I can open a new account,
Oh and while you're at it sack the muppet that's administering your web site, this is all first year web design 101 stuff.
Cheers G
malt and barley blues
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 3/3/12
- Messages
- 618
- Reaction score
- 239
I think ole Snake in the Grass should have known better seeing some of the posts on his own website about KL's handling of warranty claims. RE the no worky kegerator.
MetalRooster
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- 19/1/11
- Messages
- 85
- Reaction score
- 11
Suggestion:
I have the Kegland Double Tap Cooler Jockey/Magic Box. I freaking love it, a very awesome bit of kit. Now the recommendation is to leave the drain plug open so the water drains out and ice is always in contact with the chiller plate. This isn't always convenient to do, especially when camping and water would be leaking out in areas that I don't want it to. So I thought to connect a hose to the drain and then I can direct that where I want. As everyone comments that this thing "looks just like a Yeti" I just bought their drain plug with hose connection and am hoping that will do the job. BUT... bloody Yeti... the most freaking expensive stuff, so maybe you want to look into stocking this/supplying it with the cooler.
Link for reference. This thing is going to be $25 delivered. yikes.
https://au.yeti.com/products/drain-plug-w-hose-connection
I have the Kegland Double Tap Cooler Jockey/Magic Box. I freaking love it, a very awesome bit of kit. Now the recommendation is to leave the drain plug open so the water drains out and ice is always in contact with the chiller plate. This isn't always convenient to do, especially when camping and water would be leaking out in areas that I don't want it to. So I thought to connect a hose to the drain and then I can direct that where I want. As everyone comments that this thing "looks just like a Yeti" I just bought their drain plug with hose connection and am hoping that will do the job. BUT... bloody Yeti... the most freaking expensive stuff, so maybe you want to look into stocking this/supplying it with the cooler.
Link for reference. This thing is going to be $25 delivered. yikes.
https://au.yeti.com/products/drain-plug-w-hose-connection
Throw a bunch of industrial designers and product engineers in a room and you have got yourself a NON tech savvy bunch.
Looks like they outsource their site out to India... Having been in the e-commerce industry myself for a few of the big players in Aussie online shopping, outsourcing to india sux balls!! and is generally a big no no unless you know how to manage it. You can essentially throw any communication out the window and in return you will get shoddy work.. It is cheap though.
Keep your site built within Aussie shores and you will have a better time.
Similar threads
