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I've been looking at the 10in beer filtering system and have a question or two.
The info says its best for filtering cold un- carbonated beer. Does this mean it wouldn't be suitable for filtering beer from the new FermZilla thats been fermenting under pressure? I assume there would be some carbonation.
If its not suitable is there a product that is?
Thank you
Yes you can filter this beer from the FermZilla that is partly carbonate. The only thing to remember is that you need some head pressure on the vessel that you are receiving into.
 

Meddo

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I haven't looked at the specific construction, but if you had a solution for the fermzilla to adapt to a 4" tri clamp port on top, and 1.5" or 2" or whatever it is on the bottom, that would make it a lot more flexible and compatible with existing conical fermenter accessories and solutions.

It seemed to me (never got to test/confirm though) that the old fermentasaurus could accept a 4" end cap under the screw top, and hence an end-cap adapter down to 3" or smaller would be an option, unfortunately 3" is a bit of an in-between size - being able to use a 4" part directly would be ideal.
 

sp0rk

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Thanks for that. We do have an internet connected temp controller on the way and a smaller glycol chiller too so this is in the pipeline.

Yes some 3V vessel stuff is probably something that we should put some time into. It's a shrinking market with all the single vessel breweries but it's still something we should have some optoins for.

Thanks.
I think a setup that has a tall stand, but a small floorspace footprint would be great
The only reason I've switched to a single vessel brewery is a lack of space right now (had to make room for my powerlifting gear)
If I had the space, I wouldn't have changed my system
 

brewermp

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Just want to write a good review about Kegland. I had an item that I returned where I technically shouldn’t have gotten a refund but they helped me out. True customer service!
 

tanked84

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Do you really have leaks with the MFL thread? I find these to be definitely the way to go. I love MFL.

So you want us to make this one exactly the same but with barb?
https://www.kegland.com.au/premium-...mfl-grey-gas-with-integrated-check-valve.html
Yes that’s correct, I have a kegfridge setup through a fridge door. It requires secure fittings because of the tention caused when I open my fridge door. I find the mfl(not yours was years agoi tried and failed)not up to my purpose whereas the barbs have never let me down.
 

ABG

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@Reg Holt posted this on another thread, but one of these available in Oz would be awesome, especially if you can get it to fit to the Fermzilla with an adaptor and your work in progress unitank natively.



One end attaches to a mason jar with a silicon seal, the other end to a unitank via a tri clover fitting to a valve. Perfect for O2 free dry hopping,
 

Meddo

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Hi @KegLand-com-au , I've just had a look at your old video for the Fermzilla from last year, by the sound of it and looking at the parts diagrams it appears that the top port is 5" BSP, the spigot and top side of the butterfly valve is 3" BSP, and the bottom side of the valve and the collection jar I'm not sure. Are the first two correct? And could you tell me please what the collection jar thread size is? If these are standard BSP threads then that makes it easy enough to adapt to tri-clamp, although not sanitary.

Assuming those thread sizes are correct it would be ideal if you could fabricate a first-party tri-clamp cone fitting (ideally as a concentric reducer down to 2" or 1.5" TC) with no threads exposed to beer, and a 5" BSP to 4" TC top fitting with a gasket. With those two fittings and especially with the high-temp body it becomes a really serious alternative to a stainless unitank.

Also a reduced height stand would be great for using without a collection bottle or through a shelf with a hole in it (i.e. to allow the collection bottle to utilise the space adjacent to a compressor hump) - this might even allow two of the small versions to fit in a single large domestic fridge.
 
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donald_trub

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You just gave me a good idea - fitting this into a bar fridge by building a custom shelf and stand out of wood... Time to do some measurements!
 

Peter can box

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Hi after 4 yrs and 100+ brews I upgraded today from robobrew mark 1 to brewzilla 3.1
Unpacking the box was exciting, no instructions- No worries I can live with this.

But really it would be good to see how the manufacturer suggests the equipment be operated and used, and what the intent of all the parts and functions are


For example what is the intent of the bottom screen? It’s coarse as the holes look much larger in dia compared to robo v1 , hop material is going to pass thru, and the pump is underneath. Sure your going to whirlpool anyhow so is the idea to remove the false floor after mash out? How do you reach it? If not what’s it doing there and shouldn’t it have been part of the floor of the grain basket?

Why is the floor of the grain basket not welded like the previous versions? I don’t like trying to jam the bottom in every time, scratching the internal surfaces of both the grain basket and kettle. Regardless of material being SS scratches and gouges seem to encourage corrosion from my experience. Remember 304 is low grade comparatively speaking.

What are the clips on the outside doing? Are these intended for still purposes? I don’t see the need to clamp the lid while mashing.

Many thanks for your answers to my dumb questions but I expected a manual to be included. I know how to brew but I need to know how you think I should run this gear.

Then again no manual was provided for my Robo 1 and I can’t seem to even find this online. Tell me how do I reset the robo1 & don’t say press the + and - at the same time as that does nothing.

Peter
 

nathanvonbeerenstein

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Hi after 4 yrs and 100+ brews I upgraded today from robobrew mark 1 to brewzilla 3.1
Unpacking the box was exciting, no instructions- No worries I can live with this.

But really it would be good to see how the manufacturer suggests the equipment be operated and used, and what the intent of all the parts and functions are


For example what is the intent of the bottom screen? It’s coarse as the holes look much larger in dia compared to robo v1 , hop material is going to pass thru, and the pump is underneath. Sure your going to whirlpool anyhow so is the idea to remove the false floor after mash out? How do you reach it? If not what’s it doing there and shouldn’t it have been part of the floor of the grain basket?

Why is the floor of the grain basket not welded like the previous versions? I don’t like trying to jam the bottom in every time, scratching the internal surfaces of both the grain basket and kettle. Regardless of material being SS scratches and gouges seem to encourage corrosion from my experience. Remember 304 is low grade comparatively speaking.

What are the clips on the outside doing? Are these intended for still purposes? I don’t see the need to clamp the lid while mashing.

Many thanks for your answers to my dumb questions but I expected a manual to be included. I know how to brew but I need to know how you think I should run this gear.

Then again no manual was provided for my Robo 1 and I can’t seem to even find this online. Tell me how do I reset the robo1 & don’t say press the + and - at the same time as that does nothing.

Peter
The instruction manual is here my good man: https://www.kegland.com.au/media/pdf/BrewZilla 35L - Instruction Manual.pdf
 

fdsaasdf

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Hi after 4 yrs and 100+ brews I upgraded today from robobrew mark 1 to brewzilla 3.1
Unpacking the box was exciting, no instructions- No worries I can live with this.

But really it would be good to see how the manufacturer suggests the equipment be operated and used, and what the intent of all the parts and functions are


For example what is the intent of the bottom screen? It’s coarse as the holes look much larger in dia compared to robo v1 , hop material is going to pass thru, and the pump is underneath. Sure your going to whirlpool anyhow so is the idea to remove the false floor after mash out? How do you reach it? If not what’s it doing there and shouldn’t it have been part of the floor of the grain basket?

Why is the floor of the grain basket not welded like the previous versions? I don’t like trying to jam the bottom in every time, scratching the internal surfaces of both the grain basket and kettle. Regardless of material being SS scratches and gouges seem to encourage corrosion from my experience. Remember 304 is low grade comparatively speaking.

What are the clips on the outside doing? Are these intended for still purposes? I don’t see the need to clamp the lid while mashing.

Many thanks for your answers to my dumb questions but I expected a manual to be included. I know how to brew but I need to know how you think I should run this gear.

Then again no manual was provided for my Robo 1 and I can’t seem to even find this online. Tell me how do I reset the robo1 & don’t say press the + and - at the same time as that does nothing.

Peter
Agree that a link to the manual would have been helpful with my robo65 purchase, if not including a paper version.
Personally I find the removable malt pipe bottom screen to be very helpful for cleaning. Easy to disassemble, I just throw the cylinder and screens in the dishwasher with PBW (top rack removed). I would agree the scratching of metal on metal is not ideal and could do with a silicon gasket, but for the price I can't complain. If you're worried about corrosion then make sure you passivate well.

The bottom screen below that is to stop large grain/hop matter collecting on the element below. Again, I find this is a useful addition and my trub cone tends to sit mostly on this screen if I whirlpool for more than 15mins.
 

Rick88

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Can you please share some info on the planned thermowell for the Fermzilla, including an ETA?
 

KegLand-com-au

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I haven't looked at the specific construction, but if you had a solution for the fermzilla to adapt to a 4" tri clamp port on top, and 1.5" or 2" or whatever it is on the bottom, that would make it a lot more flexible and compatible with existing conical fermenter accessories and solutions.

It seemed to me (never got to test/confirm though) that the old fermentasaurus could accept a 4" end cap under the screw top, and hence an end-cap adapter down to 3" or smaller would be an option, unfortunately 3" is a bit of an in-between size - being able to use a 4" part directly would be ideal.
Fair enough. We will look into this. We could just make all the accessories you require to fit the existing cap. The existing caps have been made specifically to be versatile allowing for more attachments. Did you have a specific accessories that you wanted or ones that are a high priority for you.
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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@Reg Holt posted this on another thread, but one of these available in Oz would be awesome, especially if you can get it to fit to the Fermzilla with an adaptor and your work in progress unitank natively.



One end attaches to a mason jar with a silicon seal, the other end to a unitank via a tri clover fitting to a valve. Perfect for O2 free dry hopping,
Yes we should be able to make something like that fairly easily. So what do you use to dry hop with this?

One of the reasons why we put the threaded posts on the 1L collection container is so customers can purge O2 out of the collection container before opening the butterfly valve.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Hi @KegLand-com-au , I've just had a look at your old video for the Fermzilla from last year, by the sound of it and looking at the parts diagrams it appears that the top port is 5" BSP, the spigot and top side of the butterfly valve is 3" BSP, and the bottom side of the valve and the collection jar I'm not sure. Are the first two correct? And could you tell me please what the collection jar thread size is? If these are standard BSP threads then that makes it easy enough to adapt to tri-clamp, although not sanitary.

Assuming those thread sizes are correct it would be ideal if you could fabricate a first-party tri-clamp cone fitting (ideally as a concentric reducer down to 2" or 1.5" TC) with no threads exposed to beer, and a 5" BSP to 4" TC top fitting with a gasket. With those two fittings and especially with the high-temp body it becomes a really serious alternative to a stainless unitank.

Also a reduced height stand would be great for using without a collection bottle or through a shelf with a hole in it (i.e. to allow the collection bottle to utilise the space adjacent to a compressor hump) - this might even allow two of the small versions to fit in a single large domestic fridge.
I am sorry but the threads are not standard threads so you probably will not find stuff to couple hose threads easily. As you would probably know the first model had standard BSPP threads on them. The issues with the BSP thread form is that it's not designed for plastic. You can get away with it sometimes especially on small diameters but for the larger diameters they can easily jam up. This is one of the issues that some customers found with the first model and they would jam the threads so hard they would not be able to take the fermenter apart for cleaning. With the large diameter opening at the top and bottom we had to be very careful to avoid this, so in this design we have specifically made the diameter of the threads suit plastic by using a much chunkier thread that doesn't bind when it's done up tight as much.

The current plastic butterfly valve is a really high quality valve made from fairly expensive plastic that are thick and/or over-moulded over stainless steel. None of the threads have been designed to come in contact with the beer. Also bottom dump valve, collection container and lid can all handle boiling wort. It's just the tank itself at the moment that can't handle the boiling temperatures. So if it's temperature tolerance you are after the change to stainless steel dump valve would not actually be necessary.

The current stand is already quite compact only allowing a couple spare cm below the collection container clearance. We do have a custom made fermenting fridge that will take both the FermZilla 27L and 55L and these hopefully will not be too much longer for us to complete and this will have heating and cooling built into the unit. If you really wanted a more compact fermenter we have two other models without the dump valve and collection container. One of them will take 2.5bar pressure and the other model will have almost flat bottom and only take 0.3-0.4bar. These both will be quite a bit cheaper than the FermZilla. So perhaps these other two fermenter shapes might suit you better than the conical shape
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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Hi after 4 yrs and 100+ brews I upgraded today from robobrew mark 1 to brewzilla 3.1
Unpacking the box was exciting, no instructions- No worries I can live with this.

But really it would be good to see how the manufacturer suggests the equipment be operated and used, and what the intent of all the parts and functions are


For example what is the intent of the bottom screen? It’s coarse as the holes look much larger in dia compared to robo v1 , hop material is going to pass thru, and the pump is underneath. Sure your going to whirlpool anyhow so is the idea to remove the false floor after mash out? How do you reach it? If not what’s it doing there and shouldn’t it have been part of the floor of the grain basket?

Why is the floor of the grain basket not welded like the previous versions? I don’t like trying to jam the bottom in every time, scratching the internal surfaces of both the grain basket and kettle. Regardless of material being SS scratches and gouges seem to encourage corrosion from my experience. Remember 304 is low grade comparatively speaking.

What are the clips on the outside doing? Are these intended for still purposes? I don’t see the need to clamp the lid while mashing.

Many thanks for your answers to my dumb questions but I expected a manual to be included. I know how to brew but I need to know how you think I should run this gear.

Then again no manual was provided for my Robo 1 and I can’t seem to even find this online. Tell me how do I reset the robo1 & don’t say press the + and - at the same time as that does nothing.

Peter

Thanks for the feedback. As nathanvonbeerenstein has pointed out the instruction manual can be found online. We have been moving to less and less printed material with the goods that we sell and also putting as much information as possible on our website where it can be downloaded. The main reason for this is so that we are able to keep the instructions as live and current as possible. So if we thing of a new better way to use the product we can update the online PDF but it's difficult to do this with hard copy. With that said I think some customers do prefer the hard copy so I will speak to the other guys in the office and we will review this decision.

The malt pipe/grain basket has removable bottom mainly as it makes it easier to clean. With that said we can understand the scratches issue. The intention to have this come out is so it was easier to clean.

Yes the clips for the lid are to connect the Alcoengine Pot Still and Alcoenging Reflux Stills. These stills are much cheaper than they used to be and previously the hardware was a bit prohibitive in price but now that they are such good value we are starting to see a lot of people getting into this. All grain distilling was not popular at all 10 years ago but it's becoming far more popular now. It doesn't add a lot of cost to the BrewZilla so we include the clips on all the units as standard. With that said its not a bad place to rest your mash paddle.

The gen 1 instructions can be found online here but not quite sure how to do a reset on this model. It's not a model that KegLand has ever sold.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Agree that a link to the manual would have been helpful with my robo65 purchase, if not including a paper version.
Personally I find the removable malt pipe bottom screen to be very helpful for cleaning. Easy to disassemble, I just throw the cylinder and screens in the dishwasher with PBW (top rack removed). I would agree the scratching of metal on metal is not ideal and could do with a silicon gasket, but for the price I can't complain. If you're worried about corrosion then make sure you passivate well.

The bottom screen below that is to stop large grain/hop matter collecting on the element below. Again, I find this is a useful addition and my trub cone tends to sit mostly on this screen if I whirlpool for more than 15mins.
That's a fair point. We should really have a piece of paper telling people the link to get the manual. Thanks.
 

theSeekerr

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One of the reasons why we put the threaded posts on the 1L collection container is so customers can purge O2 out of the collection container before opening the butterfly valve.
I hadn't noticed that change....that's brilliant, gives a solution to all kinds of problems.
 

Meddo

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I am sorry but the threads are not standard threads so you probably will not find stuff to couple hose threads easily. As you would probably know the first model had standard BSPP threads on them. The issues with the BSP thread form is that it's not designed for plastic. You can get away with it sometimes especially on small diameters but for the larger diameters they can easily jam up. This is one of the issues that some customers found with the first model and they would jam the threads so hard they would not be able to take the fermenter apart for cleaning. With the large diameter opening at the top and bottom we had to be very careful to avoid this, so in this design we have specifically made the diameter of the threads suit plastic by using a much chunkier thread that doesn't bind when it's done up tight as much.

The current plastic butterfly valve is a really high quality valve made from fairly expensive plastic that are thick and/or over-moulded over stainless steel. None of the threads have been designed to come in contact with the beer. Also bottom dump valve, collection container and lid can all handle boiling wort. It's just the tank itself at the moment that can't handle the boiling temperatures. So if it's temperature tolerance you are after the change to stainless steel dump valve would not actually be necessary.

The current stand is already quite compact only allowing a couple spare cm below the collection container clearance. We do have a custom made fermenting fridge that will take both the FermZilla 27L and 55L and these hopefully will not be too much longer for us to complete and this will have heating and cooling built into the unit. If you really wanted a more compact fermenter we have two other models without the dump valve and collection container. One of them will take 2.5bar pressure and the other model will have almost flat bottom and only take 0.3-0.4bar. These both will be quite a bit cheaper than the FermZilla. So perhaps these other two fermenter shapes might suit you better than the conical shape
Thanks for the detailed responses KL.

There's no particular component that I feel I need specifically replicated (although I really don't like the idea of a 3" butterfly valve for controlled dumping), but having adapters top and bottom to a standard fitting (tri clamp specifically) allows so much more interchangeability with the drawer full of parts that a lot of brewers have. Certainly having first-party solutions to common components and processes is worthwhile and make sense for the new brewer, however as an example I personally already have a stainless unitank and two drawers of components that make much more sense to be able to also use on a potential FermZilla rather than having to start from scratch. A few specific components for me are that I like to have the option of using different types of dump valves for different beer scenarios (heavy or no dry-hops, yeast collection or not, trub dumping or not, set and forget) (butterfly, diaphragm, encapsulated ball), reducers, elbows, spool extensions, CIP connections (hoses, reducers, barbs), 1-wire sensors, carbonation stones, tee-pieces to add more ports, etc. etc. etc. I already own one of your 4" kegmenter caps for use on the unitank, and would do so on a FermZilla also in conjunction with other components.

Rather than trying to get a KegLand solution to every specific use case I'd love to see two simple adapters (or maybe three, if you did both a 2" and 1.5" version of the cone adapter) that open up the whole world of tri clamp components (not precluding development of those KegLand solutions also...). I guess some sort of disclaimer or voiding of warranty around over-stressing the body by applying a torque on the cone base with parts hanging off an elbow would be reasonable given that at the end of the day it's not a stainless unibody vessel. The top adapter could just be a replacement end cap with a 4" port that fit under the existing lid ring, or it could be a one-piece threaded replacement I guess.

---

Fair enough re the stand, given that a pre-defined "short" stand is not likely to match everyone's preference either. Some sort of stand that was the same as the current one but with lugs on the top ring rather than legs would be great so that it could be suspended off any given set of legs or a hole in a timber shelf, but maybe there are issues around leaving the engineering (or lack of) to the end user and risking dropping 30 kg of fermenter on their foot... Custom solutions (the fermenting fridges) are awesome but not everyone is able or wants to replace existing equipment.
 

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