Keggle Heating Element

[Thirsty Boy]

No problems with bag singeing... One of the nice things about the over the side elements is that yoou use the element itself to stir the mash with when you are adding heat... And as long as you keep it moving you know for sure nothing is caught on it or wrapped around it or sitting on it... So nothing can get burned.

I think mine are from Tobins (i inherited mine, so not 100% sure) Virtually the same as the picture posted. Nothing but metal in contact with the wort. I'm 100% electric now. 1 x 2400W for single batches... Can crank out a double batch with one element too, but it does take a bit of patience.

I have 2 elements, but my house doesn't have enough electricity to run both at once anyway, so i have learned to make do with one.

 

[Acasta]

No problems with bag singeing... One of the nice things about the over the side elements is that yoou use the element itself to stir the mash with when you are adding heat... And as long as you keep it moving you know for sure nothing is caught on it or wrapped around it or sitting on it... So nothing can get burned.

I'm 100% electric now. 1 x 2400W for single batches...

Wow, so you can step mash using one of these immersed in the mash? Thats a great idea.

How do you think it would go using a 2200W for the boil, but adding the over-the-side to get it to boil faster? about 30L

 

[BeerSwiller]

Wow, so you can step mash using one of these immersed in the mash? Thats a great idea.

How do you think it would go using a 2200W for the boil, but adding the over-the-side to get it to boil faster? about 30L

Shouldnt have a problem, i have an insulated keg and use only 1 2200w element for the boil, takes a while, but gets to a good rolling boil (just).

 

[Thirsty Boy]

Wow, so you can step mash using one of these immersed in the mash? Thats a great idea.

How do you think it would go using a 2200W for the boil, but adding the over-the-side to get it to boil faster? about 30L

Fine but kinda pointless - why not just use two of the same type

They apparently work "less well" as a tool to step mash normal brews where the mash is a bit thicker, but they are perfect for BIAB. I have used one to step a normal mash, but i mash pretty loose at about 3.5-4:1 anyway, so it was still OK. I dont know if it would cut the mustard if you mashed at 2.2:1 and i only had to do it once not all the time - its a doddle with BIAB though.

 

[kieran]

I use two of these: https://grimwood.prontoavenue.biz/products/PC08B000S

4.8kw of elements gets things moving very quickly in my 50L keggle. The boil goes like mad.
I only do 20L (final) brews though, so I usually use two to get it to a vigorous boil, then take one out after 30 mins.. otherwise I end up losing too much volume.

I prefer the 'over the side' style because I can clean them easily, and when removed there is less impediment to recirculation whirlpooling at the end.


I've done a full measurement on their efficiency with beertools pro.

The Vessel Heat Capacity of my Keggle is 3960.9 J/K (joules per kelvin) -- i.e. 3960.9 joules of energy are required to raise the vessel temp by 1 degree kelvin. FWIW, the magnitude of the kelvin scale is the same as the celcius scale.. So you could write it J/degrees C

With that in mind, in a vessel with heat capacity as above:
One Grimwood PC08B000S raises 18L of water by 10C in 6.7 minutes, at 18C ambient temperature.
Two Grimwood PC08B000S elements raise 18L of water by 10C in 2.8 minutes, at 18C ambient temperature.



cheers

 

[goomboogo]

Kieran, the element in your link is the one with matt black finish. Is this the type you use? The reason I ask is that I have the nickel plated copper sheath version but have always wondered whether anyone is using the black ones for boiling wort.

 

[kieran]

Yep, mine are the black ones. They offer better corrosion resistance than the nickel plated ones, and I've found that they have been excellent so far. No such thing as a burn yet.. not marked, and i've had one for nearly 2 years - the second one was a fairly recent acquisition -- but it's performing equally as well.

I did a little homework and found the the incolloy 800 sheaths are rated better for sugary liquids, acidic and basic solutions.. so I went with that. It's performing well so far, so I'm happy.

cheers

 

[lespaul]

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=3853

Anyone know why these aren't on sale until mid July? Ross?
Cheers

Also kieran, how much do one of those set you back? Im hoping the $500 down the bottom of the page is for the control unit?

 

[Ross]

http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=3853

Anyone know why these aren't on sale until mid July? Ross?
Cheers

....because that is when the next container arrives. The elements have been more populkar than expected

Cheers Ross

 

[bill_gill85]

Would it be possible to convert the craftbrewer element into a heatstick? In other words, does the element have a standard thread, preferably a pipe thread? I could get access to materials to make an extension to seal power connector.

I like that the craftbrewer element is sheathed & doesnt have a coil shape. I can always have a part machined to make the heatstick handle, but off the shelf components are cheaper.

Cheers,

Ben

 

[ledgenko]

Does anyone have experience with the 3600w hot water heating elms with a 40 - 100lt HLT or Keggle ??? I like the look of them .. and the power !!! although Solar panels would be a necessity not a luxury in this place...

Thoughts?

I just saw 4800w heating elms for $36 on ebay ... it may just solve my problem... or will it ????

 

[BeerSwiller]

I need to replace the old 2200w element in my keg as the wiring is all melted and fragile at the connection to the element.

I was thinking about using a 3600w element from beerbelly, just not too sure if they would be any good for wort boiling as it's not low density. Anyone used these for wort boiling??

 

[kjparker]

Does anyone have experience with the 3600w hot water heating elms with a 40 - 100lt HLT or Keggle ??? I like the look of them .. and the power !!! although Solar panels would be a necessity not a luxury in this place...

Thoughts?

I just saw 4800w heating elms for $36 on ebay ... it may just solve my problem... or will it ????

Unles you have 15amp (3600w) or 20 amp(4800w) dont bother, you wont be able to run them!

 

[Acasta]

Would it be possible to convert the craftbrewer element into a heatstick? In other words, does the element have a standard thread, preferably a pipe thread? I could get access to materials to make an extension to seal power connector.

I like that the craftbrewer element is sheathed & doesnt have a coil shape. I can always have a part machined to make the heatstick handle, but off the shelf components are cheaper.

Cheers,

Ben

It would be interesting to see it done. Give it a shot and post results

 

[BeerSwiller]

Does anyone know where I can buy heating elements? 2400w, 3600w ..... Anything
My original 2200w element was an ebay special but no longer sold there

 

[_HOME_BREW_WALLACE_]

Does anyone know where I can buy heating elements? 2400w, 3600w ..... Anything
My original 2200w element was an ebay special but no longer sold there

Try the sponsers at the top of the page :icon_cheers:

 

[ledgenko]

Ross ... are the 2200w in stock ?? or have you sold out ?


Matt

 

[ledgenko]

Ok... I currently do not have a seperate fuse / circuit to run the brewery but have access to 2 circuits which both have other points on them .. am I better off using 2 x 2200w water heaters from Ross (or equivilant) to my 100l Keggle and 1 x 2200w to my 70l HLT or 1 x 3600w in the Keggle and 1 x 2200w in the HLT ?



I use hot water straight from laundry to fill my HLT so to hit 73 - 75 C does not take too long with my current 20 lt crown... (about 10 mins on a cold day).. about 5 normally...

The 40l stock pot has struggled to get a boil up with a 33 lt batch ... so have had to improvise and boil 2 batches in the urn ... no problems with it so far in as far as taste or infection but it takes way too long to do .. and I need to increase production as I am feeding 2 houses with beer (mine and my parents).... hence the upgrade ...

 

[kjparker]

Ok... I currently do not have a seperate fuse / circuit to run the brewery but have access to 2 circuits which both have other points on them .. am I better off using 2 x 2200w water heaters from Ross (or equivilant) to my 100l Keggle and 1 x 2200w to my 70l HLT or 1 x 3600w in the Keggle and 1 x 2200w in the HLT ?



I use hot water straight from laundry to fill my HLT so to hit 73 - 75 C does not take too long with my current 20 lt crown... (about 10 mins on a cold day).. about 5 normally...

The 40l stock pot has struggled to get a boil up with a 33 lt batch ... so have had to improvise and boil 2 batches in the urn ... no problems with it so far in as far as taste or infection but it takes way too long to do .. and I need to increase production as I am feeding 2 houses with beer (mine and my parents).... hence the upgrade ...

Unless you have a 15amp outlet you wont be able to run the 3600w element. Your better off sticking with your plan of two 2200w elements, on two circuits.

 

[bill_gill85]

It would be interesting to see it done. Give it a shot and post results

I recieved my element in the mail today. I was surprised that it has a short flylead with a kettle cord (IEC) socket, not a socket moulded on the element. I am slightly disappointed with the finish of the stainless steel sheath. Instead of being capped with either a flat or convex end, the element has a concave end that could trap residue from the boil. As a heatstick, this shouldn't be a problem, but permanently installed, it might. My other concern is that the element is designed to be fully submerged, but for my application I'd like to keep the flange above the wort.


My initial measurements show the thread to be M32 x 1.50. This size thread size appears to be common to electrical conduit, however stainless steel conduit can be hard to come by. I'll try contacting a few suppliers I know of to get an idea of price. If I succeed, I'm now expecting the conversion to cost as much as the element itself. My other option is to weld a pipe fitting to the locknut that comes with the element.