Kegging Setups
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cdbrown
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Noticed that I hadn't put my bar in here yet. It's not quite finished but is definitely operational. I'll be removing the top shelf and replacing it with jarrah boards back my marine ply. Will do the same for the bar top as well. Will also replace the front liner boards with proper mitred jarrah liner boards. Just need to get some time to head to the salvage yards to get all the jarrah. Will also be installing a double laundry trough at the back of the room for cleaning fermenters and such and am thinking of mounting the two beer engines against the back wall rather than on the bar to free up some realestate.
The bar
Keezer with collar installed
Fits 8 kegs nicely
Need to also try and get the arcade machine up and running
The bar
Keezer with collar installed
Fits 8 kegs nicely
Need to also try and get the arcade machine up and running
cdbrown
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Sure thing mate - will get them for you when I get home in about 4hrs.
OK, I finally finished my bar in time for Australia Day. A couple of little things to go like gas struts but good to go for now. Here are some pics as the process unfolded. I now present Kevin the Kegerator Mk II.
Here is the base of the chest freezer. I originally opted for 4 castors but in the second phase of building I threw the other 4 on. Very happy I did.
Here you can see the bottom side pieces of timber being pre drilled as well as one of the support brackets I used to attach the timber to the base. The brackets are made of 0.060" stainless sheet. Overkill yes, but happy that I went in that direction. Even though I hate working with stainless. The timber that I used for the bar top and skirting is River Oak/Swamp Oak. Apparently a part of the Malleluka family.
OK, here we can see the chest freezer in place on the trolley with the skirting boards fitted. The gas line can also be seen going in through the drain hole.
Here is where I threw some vertical supports in on the recomendation of MHB and a couple of other guys. Eventually I want to have gas struts fitted as the lid is a 2 man lift presently and the wood around the top wouldn't be able to handle the stress. I threw some dirty big baton screws in place. I think they were 120mm long. I also drilled some holes in the bottom of the support posts to feed the gas line through and keep it out of harms way.
OK, we are starting to look damn sexy now. I have the corrugated iron fitted. The hardwood trim on top is to help support the stainless capping/flashing that you can see in pic 2. Only the top of the corrugated iron is fixed in place with screws as the bottom slotted nicely into the gap between the skirting and the trolley.
Here is a shot of the bar top temporarily fitted. We wanted to see what it was going to look like complete. Here the top has only one coat of laquer applied.
Here I have applied a sheet of stainless, in the 0.040" range to the underside of the lid to give a little more support and rigidity from the underside. Before the timber top was fitted the fontsa came through nicely and I didn't take the timber thickess into account when I planned this. Hence image 1 and 2 here show that it is a little hard to fit the securing nut. Image 3 shows the aftermath of about 2 hours of stitch drilling and routing. But, it works.
Getting close to the end Goal now. The bar top is fitted, Fonts are fitted, kegs are in place and the beer lines are all connected. This may look messy but compared to how I had this all set up before, this is neat. The gas manifold has been a big bonus. You can also see here my 2 secondary regs. I have 200 Kpa being fed into the kegerator for the soda water and this is then sent to the 2 secondaries. One feeds 70 Kpa to the manifold and leaves the other free to do differing carbonation levels for specialty beers that I may wish to play with.
Here we have my bar, ready to go. All up I think I gave it about 6 coats of laquer. Feast Watsons High Gloss Floor Coat. I will probably give it a buff with an orbital polisher in about 1 month. You can also see the natural inclusions in the timber slab that extend through the whole thickness. For these I have used Glass Coat to fill them. I am very happy with the finished product.
Now for the taps. The handles of the 6 taps on the left are made from Mango wood. I will say that the parent tree is 50 yrs old, but that is being conservative. It would have to be 100 yrs I guess from it's size. The handles were turned from 2 branch pieces, and the degree of difference that each handle displays is really cool. The handles of the last 4 are made from Camphor Laurel. The taps themselves are Perlick Perls and Andale Florytes. I may even change the 4 Florytes out eventually for more Perls.
This was a big project for me considering before this I had not done wood work for 17 years. I had a couple of mates who gave me a big hand.
Here is the base of the chest freezer. I originally opted for 4 castors but in the second phase of building I threw the other 4 on. Very happy I did.
Here you can see the bottom side pieces of timber being pre drilled as well as one of the support brackets I used to attach the timber to the base. The brackets are made of 0.060" stainless sheet. Overkill yes, but happy that I went in that direction. Even though I hate working with stainless. The timber that I used for the bar top and skirting is River Oak/Swamp Oak. Apparently a part of the Malleluka family.
OK, here we can see the chest freezer in place on the trolley with the skirting boards fitted. The gas line can also be seen going in through the drain hole.
Here is where I threw some vertical supports in on the recomendation of MHB and a couple of other guys. Eventually I want to have gas struts fitted as the lid is a 2 man lift presently and the wood around the top wouldn't be able to handle the stress. I threw some dirty big baton screws in place. I think they were 120mm long. I also drilled some holes in the bottom of the support posts to feed the gas line through and keep it out of harms way.
OK, we are starting to look damn sexy now. I have the corrugated iron fitted. The hardwood trim on top is to help support the stainless capping/flashing that you can see in pic 2. Only the top of the corrugated iron is fixed in place with screws as the bottom slotted nicely into the gap between the skirting and the trolley.
Here is a shot of the bar top temporarily fitted. We wanted to see what it was going to look like complete. Here the top has only one coat of laquer applied.
Here I have applied a sheet of stainless, in the 0.040" range to the underside of the lid to give a little more support and rigidity from the underside. Before the timber top was fitted the fontsa came through nicely and I didn't take the timber thickess into account when I planned this. Hence image 1 and 2 here show that it is a little hard to fit the securing nut. Image 3 shows the aftermath of about 2 hours of stitch drilling and routing. But, it works.
Getting close to the end Goal now. The bar top is fitted, Fonts are fitted, kegs are in place and the beer lines are all connected. This may look messy but compared to how I had this all set up before, this is neat. The gas manifold has been a big bonus. You can also see here my 2 secondary regs. I have 200 Kpa being fed into the kegerator for the soda water and this is then sent to the 2 secondaries. One feeds 70 Kpa to the manifold and leaves the other free to do differing carbonation levels for specialty beers that I may wish to play with.
Here we have my bar, ready to go. All up I think I gave it about 6 coats of laquer. Feast Watsons High Gloss Floor Coat. I will probably give it a buff with an orbital polisher in about 1 month. You can also see the natural inclusions in the timber slab that extend through the whole thickness. For these I have used Glass Coat to fill them. I am very happy with the finished product.
Now for the taps. The handles of the 6 taps on the left are made from Mango wood. I will say that the parent tree is 50 yrs old, but that is being conservative. It would have to be 100 yrs I guess from it's size. The handles were turned from 2 branch pieces, and the degree of difference that each handle displays is really cool. The handles of the last 4 are made from Camphor Laurel. The taps themselves are Perlick Perls and Andale Florytes. I may even change the 4 Florytes out eventually for more Perls.
This was a big project for me considering before this I had not done wood work for 17 years. I had a couple of mates who gave me a big hand.
Brewindo
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G'day All,
Here is my keg set up I assembled from odds and ends. Wood panel on fridge is teak, left handle is spun up out of ebony and the right is pine, I also have cocnut wood ones as well if the mood or beer suits. Sorry the pics aren't the best (iphone)
Cheers...
Here is my keg set up I assembled from odds and ends. Wood panel on fridge is teak, left handle is spun up out of ebony and the right is pine, I also have cocnut wood ones as well if the mood or beer suits. Sorry the pics aren't the best (iphone)
Cheers...
cdbrown
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Fisher & Paykel H360 Freezer
109cm wide, 65 deep, 90 tall. Collar is about 19cm tall
MarkBastard
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This thread just keeps on giving! Well done head and brewindo.
GrumpyPaul
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Here's my el-cheapo kegerator...
$50 ebay bar fridge.
Tap tower was a birthday gift. (would have been cheap even if I had to pay for it myself $49 delivered from mashmaster)
$50 ebay bar fridge.
Tap tower was a birthday gift. (would have been cheap even if I had to pay for it myself $49 delivered from mashmaster)
DU99
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Some really nice work there
GrumpyPaul
Well-Known Member
looks better not on its side...
GrumpyPaul
Well-Known Member
Ok it's about time I posted something here.
First up, plain old boring white fridge.
Next up, this was my friday night and weekend project:
With 4 kegs inside. I can get 5 in there, but that was just for the hell of it. I want to make a brace to keep them in there without spilling out as soon as the door is opened. That's down the track though.
First up, plain old boring white fridge.
Next up, this was my friday night and weekend project:
With 4 kegs inside. I can get 5 in there, but that was just for the hell of it. I want to make a brace to keep them in there without spilling out as soon as the door is opened. That's down the track though.
Mate that is really clean, well done on such a top setup!
globe
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Hello looking at all the photos of everyones setup wow!
Some of those setups look better than some local pubs!
I have just bought 6 kegs with a two tap fridge and a 10kg
co2 cannister for $700......if I have two kegs in the fridge
and the other four are carbonated how long can they stay
stored before they "turn stale"?
I tried looking through the pages here but got sidetracked
with all the photos.
Any help for storing beer would be awesome.
Parko
Some of those setups look better than some local pubs!
I have just bought 6 kegs with a two tap fridge and a 10kg
co2 cannister for $700......if I have two kegs in the fridge
and the other four are carbonated how long can they stay
stored before they "turn stale"?
I tried looking through the pages here but got sidetracked
with all the photos.
Any help for storing beer would be awesome.
Parko
Hey Parko,
I can't really advise how long on the temperature side of things, however if you gas them up and bleed the oxygen out with 3 short bursts (by pulling the pressure relief valve) they should keep for a long time. The only things that could make the beer go off are oxygen and heat (provided that you sanitise correctly).
Cheers
Clint
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