Keg King Elements

[JDW81]

Any more feedback about the new model? I'm thinking of getting a couple but only if the issues are truly sorted.

I presume you'd need two to get a decent boil for a double batch (50+ litres).

Put one in my HLT at the start of the year and haven't had any dramas from it. No sign of rust, or it overheating where it shouldn't.

I reckon you'd need two if you were trying to boil 50L. My HLT is around that size and one gets me to strike/sparge temp no worries, but a healthy rolling boil would be a different matter.

JD.

 

[OzPaleAle]

We have pretty good consumer laws here, worth checking your rights, these rights cannot be circumvented by exemptions some sellers(mostly eBay, 3 month warranty etc) put on their products.

It souds like there was a problem with them and as it says at the link, the purchaser gets to determine if he gets a repair\refund\replace not the seller.

http://www.consumer.vic.gov.au/businesses/fair-trading/guarantees-warranties-and-refunds

 

[kahlerisms]

Any more feedback about the new model? I'm thinking of getting a couple but only if the issues are truly sorted.

I presume you'd need two to get a decent boil for a double batch (50+ litres).

I am on my third Keg King element. I 1V BIAB in a converted Keg.

First one was the "old model" and one day just started throwing the breaker all of a sudden. Replaced no questions asked with the new model.

Second one: not quite sure what happened there but I made a batch of beer that tasted like ash and I never got the element clean. To this day it's all blackened after hours of Oxyper soaking and scrubbing.
The batch of beer was made while I was... very refreshed we'll say... so I really can't blame the element for it as I dunno if I cut corners or boiled for three hours or did something else stupid.

I paid for element 3 and I've been a bit more cautious with it. I wanna do a QldKev with it and get a pump to make sure the liquid around the element is always churning about. That'll give me a bit more confidence and allow me to do automated ramping and **** with my bag still in the pot. For the moment I tend to single mash or be very very careful to stir the **** out of it if my bag's in the keggle while the element's on.

Would I buy one again? Probably not. I think I'd probably go down the $11 kettle element route. But I quite enjoy the gear hacking and others don't. If you were looking to avoid cutting/wiring anything and had a little more money to spend I'd probably lean towards an over the side element.

 

[kahlerisms]

So an update on Element #3. My last three batches (American Pale, MO Smash, English Barley Wine) all taste identical - burnt and ashy.

Unlike the first time I made an ashy tasting beer (and these three aren't that extreme), there's no evidence on the element of anything scorching or burning. Regardless, even if I wasn't having these issues I can barely get more than a simmer, so I think I'm done with KegKing elements.

So, anyone know of any 2200-2400W elements that'll fit the same hole? Alternatively I gotta find a way to block it up and I'll just use an over-the-side job.

Pretty disappointing

 

[barls]

#355

 

[JaseH]

I cant see how the problems you mention can be specifically attributed to the KK element?

If its not providing enough heat to boil vigorously but is somehow scorching your wort then you may need to go a to much lower heat density rated but higher wattage element for the method of brewing your doing or adjust your method.

 

[JDW81]

So an update on Element #3. My last three batches (American Pale, MO Smash, English Barley Wine) all taste identical - burnt and ashy.

Unlike the first time I made an ashy tasting beer (and these three aren't that extreme), there's no evidence on the element of anything scorching or burning. Regardless, even if I wasn't having these issues I can barely get more than a simmer, so I think I'm done with KegKing elements.

So, anyone know of any 2200-2400W elements that'll fit the same hole? Alternatively I gotta find a way to block it up and I'll just use an over-the-side job.

Pretty disappointing

What size batches are you brewing? If you are trying to boil 30+ litres with a single element you are going to struggle without some good insulation. I have a new KK element in my HLT and it is fine for that, but I don't need to get it to a rolling boil.

As for ashy flavours, I don't see how the element would give you those flavours in the absence of burning or scorching.

If you are going to plug up the hole and go for an over-the-side element then your best bet is to get something like a stainless plug and have it welded in. I've done this on my HLT and it worked a treat.

 

[kahlerisms]

Hi Guys

I'm aiming to fill a 20L cube. I'm not doing monster batches or anything. I'm not sure what other things could be contributing to this taste - I suppose I should hunt out someone in Melbourne with a trained palette to come taste my beers and confirm my diagnosis.

Regardless, Need moar powar and an over-the-side I borrowed for part of my brew day on Saturday was HEAPS more powerful than my installed element.

 

[kahlerisms]

#355

Cool. I might have a look at this guy to see if he'll fit

http://www.stoveconnection.com.au/shop/index.php/store/hot-water/elements/kz24hq00.html

thanks

 

[QldKev]

Also the electric brewery uses Camco elements from Amazon, and you can get ultra low watt density ones. Even the low watt density would be ok.

Those stove connection ones look fairly low density too.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

Also the electric brewery uses Camco elements from Amazon, and you can get ultra low watt density ones. Even the low watt density would be ok.

Those stove connection ones look fairly low density too.

So low density is just watts to length, longer sheath and lower watts is best ?
I order low density elements but dont understand the technical attributes.
Nev

 

[Parks]

So low density is just watts to length, longer sheath and lower watts is best ?
I order low density elements but dont understand the technical attributes.
Nev

It's all about power to surface area. 2200W is the total power so that may be 10W/cm2 or it could be 100W/cm2 - big difference on how much wort is in direct contact with the element.

 

[Yob]

Out of interest for those following this thread.

My 2 year old (i think) KK element finally gave out, I wandered in there the other week (Springvale) and merely mentioned that the element had shat itself and was offered a replacement with no questions asked. You can easily see the difference in the 2 of these. It can be noted that I only use mine in the HLT.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

It's all about power to surface area. 2200W is the total power so that may be 10W/cm2 or it could be 100W/cm2 - big difference on how much wort is in direct contact with the element.

Thanks, so my elements are 2.4Kw and have a total length of approx 630mm and a dia of 8mm, how do I work out cm2 ?
And is this considered low density ?
Nev

 

[booargy]

ultra low density element. 3kw 3 phase run at 2.4kw.

 

[Parks]

Thanks, so my elements are 2.4Kw and have a total length of approx 630mm and a dia of 8mm, how do I work out cm2 ?
And is this considered low density ?
Nev

http://www.onlineconversion.com/object_surfacearea_cylinder.htm

Just under 160 cm2 or 15W/cm2

 

[Parks]

The Keg King ones are listed as being 2200W, 25mm diameter and 290mm long which is 237cm2 or 9.3W/cm2

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

ultra low density element. 3kw 3 phase run at 2.4kw.

Ooh thats a biggin!

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

http://www.onlineconversion.com/object_surfacearea_cylinder.htm

Just under 160 cm2 or 15W/cm2

Cheers, very informative.
Nev

 

[Parks]

ultra low density element. 3kw 3 phase run at 2.4kw.

Assuming that coil is 8mm and you have a total coil length of 2.2m (4 lengths of 55cm) that would be about 553 or 5.4W/cm2 @ 3KW.