Keg King Elements

[Parks]

Ok now for the stupid question. The O ring that comes with the kit. does it go on the inside or the outside of the pot.
??

Inside

 

[joshuahardie]

By fluke I did it right.

Thanks Parks

 

[Parks]

Excellent

 

[Pleasure Master]

Oh Man!!.... I just found this thread...

Last Friday I purchased another KK element...that makes 3 that I have..I'm quite paranoid about using them now..

And to add salt to the wound.. Purchased on Friday, Fitted Saturday, Rusty Monday...

I have since contacted the seller.

But I recitified the problem myself, I have some pickle paste at home.(I work with SS for a living)

To ask a question, is it possible to repair these elements electrically if they go bang?

 

[NickB]

I pulled one apart when it died and sadly there's not really any way of repairing them - I suppose you could completely pull the element out of the stainless sheath and try to fit another, but it was glued in there pretty well.....

Use the warranty - that's what it's for!

Cheers

 

[_HOME_BREW_WALLACE_]

The way I understand it is pipe is measure by internal diameter, tube by external diameter.

Pipe is used for transferring liquid/gas where the internal diameter (vs external) is the critical measurement in determining pressure. Tube is used structurally where the external diameter is more important.

Hence why it is BSP "British Standard Pipe" and not BST..........

 

[Filby]

Ran my two new ones last night. They are longer by about 30mm I reckon. Looks like the problem is solved regarding the melting connection end. I measured only 32deg at the white connection compared to the old one which was 82deg. 90min boil with no dramas.


Fil

 

[sp0rk]

I pulled one apart when it died and sadly there's not really any way of repairing them - I suppose you could completely pull the element out of the stainless sheath and try to fit another, but it was glued in there pretty well.....

Use the warranty - that's what it's for!

Cheers

That ain't gonna work
the spiral inside of the element is usually surrounded my magnesium oxide powder
it's usually filled vertically in a large tower, allowed to settle, swaged to compress the powder then bent to shape, terminated, etc...


Also my guess of the real reason the KK elements were dying
element spirals have a section of solid steel wire soldered to them which protudes a couple of cm into the element, to leave a small length of the element that doesn't get hot
When you make an element, the above process is followed, after which the element is placed in a drying oven to drive out any moisture
you then sandblast a small amount of the magnesium oxide out of the inside of the tube, and fill it with resin or whatever is being used to seal it
if the solid wire at the end of the element is too short, the element will heat the sealing resin and melt it away
moisture then has the chance to get into the element and next time you use it, it shorts out

this is just my partly educated guess having worked for an element manufacturer for a year or so

 

[Parks]

if the solid wire at the end of the element is too short, the element will heat the sealing resin and melt it away
moisture then has the chance to get into the element and next time you use it, it shorts out

this is just my partly educated guess having worked for an element manufacturer for a year or so

I don't really think this is the issue as the elements are completely sealed from the inside. I doubt *everyone* who has had them blow up has managed to get moisture in from the outside of the vessel.

I think the more likely scenario is the resin has melted and the wires have actually come close enough together to short.

 

[sp0rk]

I don't really think this is the issue as the elements are completely sealed from the inside. I doubt *everyone* who has had them blow up has managed to get moisture in from the outside of the vessel.

I think the more likely scenario is the resin has melted and the wires have actually come close enough together to short.

Even if the resin melts, the spiral still shouldn't touch the sheath, as the insulating powder still holds it in place
if they're using magnesium oxide as the insulating powder, it likes to soak up moisture in the atmosphere, so that would be enough

 

[Parks]

Even if the resin melts, the spiral still shouldn't touch the sheath, as the insulating powder still holds it in place
if they're using magnesium oxide as the insulating powder, it likes to soak up moisture in the atmosphere, so that would be enough

Makes sense, thanks

The reason I suggested it might be otherwise is they seem to blow right at the end where the cable joins. Maybe it's just the the sheath is nice and solid which means when it blows it actually blows out toward the cable.

 

[DJR]

Ran my two new ones last night. They are longer by about 30mm I reckon. Looks like the problem is solved regarding the melting connection end. I measured only 32deg at the white connection compared to the old one which was 82deg. 90min boil with no dramas.


Fil

That means if i get a replacement it won't fit into my bigw 19L pot as it *just* fits across the bottom of it with about 5mm to spare I think I have a newer revision anyway which has been OK, touch wood

 

[joshuahardie]

I am 45 mins into a boil with one of the new elements.

The 5cm of power cord nearest to the element is only barely warm that rest of the cord is dead cold

Appears to be an improvement over what others have said about the original elements.

 

[Red Baron]

Hey red baron, post any feedback about these new elements im keen to know if they are worth buying.

Well I finally got around to brewing again. The new KK element worked well. I also noticed (as somebody posted above) the wire was not hot as it exits the element (the old one was too hot to touch). I also noticed the plug on the cord was not nearly as hot into the wall socket. No melting/ warping, no burning smell. Zero rust on the element after 2 days also.

From my one time use of the new elements, I say they work as advertised 100% of the time. I'll update if needed as my statistics get more accurate........



RB.



Ps. Lakey, sorry to hear that your element blew before I post this reply.

 

[JDW81]

Well I finally got around to brewing again. The new KK element worked well. I also noticed (as somebody posted above) the wire was not hot as it exits the element (the old one was too hot to touch). I also noticed the plug on the cord was not nearly as hot into the wall socket. No melting/ warping, no burning smell. Zero rust on the element after 2 days also.

From my one time use of the new elements, I say they work as advertised 100% of the time. I'll update if needed as my statistics get more accurate........



RB.

Ps. Lakey, sorry to hear that your element blew before I post this reply.

Any updates on the "new and improved" element? Am trying to find a suitable one for my HLT, without having to wire one up.

:icon_offtopic:

Does any one have any experience with the elements sold by grain and grape?

Cheers,

JD

 

[joshuahardie]

3 brews on the new element.
No heating up of the cord, no rust.

At this point in time I am happy

 

[denemc]

I'm interested in one of of the new models to convert a keg to a brew pot. In NZ the urns are expensive and a good one will be up to 5 times the cost of a keg conversion. Is there anyone that has had one of the new models for a while that can comment? I don't want to buy one and have to pay for shipping several times for replacement!

Has anyone put one of these into a 50 litre keg and can comment if they are powerful enough? I'm don't have any DIY skills so can't really go down the road of hot water cylinder element.

 

[Verbyla]

I'm interested in one of of the new models to convert a keg to a brew pot. In NZ the urns are expensive and a good one will be up to 5 times the cost of a keg conversion. Is there anyone that has had one of the new models for a while that can comment? I don't want to buy one and have to pay for shipping several times for replacement!

Has anyone put one of these into a 50 litre keg and can comment if they are powerful enough? I'm don't have any DIY skills so can't really go down the road of hot water cylinder element.

I've got the new element and have had or seen any issues with the elements so far. The orginal problems with the element have been resolved and there has been plenty of positive feedback so I'd say you'd be safe to go with it.

In a 50L keg doing 23L batches I'd recommend using 2 of these elements as I've heard a few people say they struggle to get a nice rolling boil.

 

[QldKev]

It seems one element has had the rust issue from reading a few replies ago.

But looking at the power, being 2200w
I'm running a single Uxcell 2000w in my 1V, which is a 50L keggle conversion. I'm getting nearly 14% boil off in an hour. But I do have it heavily insulated, (as in 3 separate layers worth) and I keep it out of any wind. I have only ever run a standard single batch (23L into fermenter) from it; but at a guess since you are not increasing the diameter of the pot I should be able to push more from it. Also I only start the 60min timer after the hot break / foam has settled back into it.

QldKev

 

[pommiebloke]

Any more feedback about the new model? I'm thinking of getting a couple but only if the issues are truly sorted.

I presume you'd need two to get a decent boil for a double batch (50+ litres).