Is Dextrose Okay In Yeast Starters

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bullsneck

Malty tasking
Joined
25/11/08
Messages
940
Reaction score
175
Hey all.

Just about to build up a yeast starter of 1469.

Still a fair noob at yeast farming/starting/harvesting.

Is it okay to use dextrose for yeast starting?

Thanks.

Bullsneck.
 
I wouldn't.
Only because I've been told that it makes the yeast lazy when it comes time to eating a more complex substance such as malt.
 
That seems to ring a bell.

Thanks, I was counting on a speedy response.
 
I usually keep a kilo bag of LDME from the local kit n bit LHBS for doing starters, and seal it up with one of those tube / stick sealing rods you get from kitchen shops.
 
Generally around 30% Dextrose and 70% light malt extract with a touch of Nutrient and a bit of dissolved O2 is considered ideal, so yes it's Ok in a starter, just maybe not on its own!

MHB
 
I wouldn't.
I because I've been told that it makes the yeast lazy when it comes time to eating a more complex substance such as malt.

+1 I received the same advice from G&G and have read similar here.

I did this once before receiving this advice and it took 3 weeks to ferment fully (Edit: This was about 50/50 dextrose/LDME) This was a lager which I don't normally brew so can't comment on how long it would normally have taken. I certainly wouldn't recommend it.
 
If the starter is malt, the yeast attenuates malt better, if the starter is dex, the yeast won't attenuate malt as well.
Stick to malt for starters.
 
I still do not understand the fascination with putting a hop pellet or two in a starter? Yes, 2 hop pellets cost **** all but what's the point?

hop resins/oils can have an effect on yeast production, its minimal but its an effect nonetheless. you are making a starter to make healthy yeast cells, not to make beer.

http://www.mrmalty.com/starter_faq.htm

all your questions are answered in the above link.
 
I think its referenced in a few old yeast culturing articles. The antibacterial components in hops are just going to hinder your yeast if anything, to what extent is debatable. (doesn't seem to be much though)
 
hop resins/oils can have an effect on yeast production, its minimal but its an effect nonetheless. you are making a starter to make healthy yeast cells, not to make beer.

http://www.mrmalty.com/starter_faq.htm

all your questions are answered in the above link.

Yeah, so that's what I thought. There is no reason to put any hops in a starter. I think in Yeast it says something along the lines of "if you need to add hops for antibacterial purposes you need to review your processes."
 
I add a hop pettet because I have read that hops can act like an antiseptic, but to much could inhibit hop growth and development. You don't have to add hops but you can. I have had success with and without so it's up to you how you cultivate your yeast. It also gets the yeast acustomed to the acidic wort you will be pitching it into.
 
I sometimes make starters with the wort to be fermented (which obviously contains hops). I have heard about the yeast retardation thing but to be honest I've noticed little difference between all DME starters and starters made with hopped wort. There's also the idea that yeast produce wort specific enzymes so adding the actual hopped wort (can only really be done if you no-chill or want to brew the same recipe on a small scale in advance) might be an advantage.

On a small scale I think it's one of those academic things - as mentioned I notice a caterpillar's nipple's worth of difference and then only on Tuesdays when I'm really observant.

Wouldn't bother adding a hop pellet to a dme starter though.
 
I must admit I have never adding hops to starter wort, but maybe I will after reading this (again):

http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/yeast-p...s-and-practices

Awesome article on yeast starters, yeast propogation, why bother with a stir plate, etc.

She writes that adding hops to starter wort will help with reducing the chances of getting an infected starter wort.


thanks
Bjorn
 
When Extract is made for brewing it is made with the expectation that simple sugars will be added by the brewer. Well made well aerated wort is really the best place to start yeast (that wasnt the question asked); lacking that adding around 30% glucose/dextrose to your malt extract actually makes the starter more like a real wort than using extract alone.

A small addition of yeast nutrient (not DAP Yeast Food) makes sure the yeast has all the vitamins and minerals it needs, plenty of nitrogen (in the form of degraded protein) and a good supply of Lipids and other fatty acids, you really only need about 50-100 ppm (0.05-0.1g/L) so its not exactly going to break the bank.

MHB
 
When Extract is made for brewing it is made with the expectation that simple sugars will be added by the brewer. Well made well aerated wort is really the best place to start yeast (that wasnt the question asked); lacking that adding around 30% glucose/dextrose to your malt extract actually makes the starter more like a real wort than using extract alone.

Ahh, so that's why extract beers taste so flabby and underattenuated. Makes sense. Do you have access to a carbohydrate profile to extract? It would be interesting to look at.

Cheers
 
My later extract brews always included hops and at least 20% dextrose to aid in attenuation, only because I was going to drink them. But do either aid in improving yeast production?
 
Back
Top