Immersion heaters

[Dave70]

To save a little bench space I'm looking at using an immersion heater for the mash only portion of my brew day, similar to the one pictured, so only need to get the wort to 75 deg or there abouts for mash out - no boil, and have a few questions for those familiar with them.


*Will a 2400 unit be suitable for volumes up to 40L without taking hours to reach the desired temp?

*Is it possible to use one in conjunction with some form of temp controller - ie - fridgemate - or would the amperage melt it?

*Are there issues with the grain sticking to the element, to that end whats the fix?

*Are they just hang over the side and go or doe you need to move them round and round?

*Is it worth getting one of the more fancy ones with an integrated thermostat?

*Anything else?

Cheers.

 

[Matplat]

*Will a 2400 unit be suitable for volumes up to 40L without taking hours to reach the desired temp?

Depending on your tap water temp, and vessel insulation, it will probably take around an hour. I usually allow half an hour to get my 20l of strike water to get to mash temp.

*Is it possible to use one in conjunction with some form of temp controller - ie - fridgemate - or would the amperage melt it?

Should be fine, depends on the capacity of the relay in your controller, I use an STC-1000 with no issues.

I can't comment on your other questions as I don't use my element directly in the mash (I use a 1v recirc system).

Cheers, Matt

 

[malt junkie]

Is 40L your finished volume, I'd be looking for 3600w with a 40L boil (preboil volume )

 

[Dave70]

Is 40L your finished volume, I'd be looking for 3600w with a 40L boil (preboil volume )

I generally go a keg and a bit per batch, full volume mash. So around the 28 to 35 L in the tun. Insulated stainless keg.

* I dont actually think domestic a domestic power outlet could cop 3600w with tripping fuses.

 

[earle]

40L crown urns are 2400W for a power comparison, so if you're low to mid 30L's for mash in the power should be fine.

 

[RobB]

I have the unit in your picture and I used to use it for step mashing in my BIAB days. I use a Birko urn now, but I have kept the immersion element just in case something blows up mid-brew.

*Will a 2400 unit be suitable for volumes up to 40L without taking hours to reach the desired temp?
It will take a while, but it will get there. My volumes are about half yours so I can't really guess how long it will take. 40 litre urns have 2400W elements so we know it can do the job.

*Are there issues with the grain sticking to the element, to that end whats the fix?
I never had an issue, but my mash was very loose since it was BIAB. I used to move the mash around with my paddle rather than stir with the element. I would often find pieces of grain lodged in the gaps of the spiral when I pulled out the element, but they were never stuck or burnt on.

*Are they just hang over the side and go or doe you need to move them round and round?
When I bought mine, the guy in the shop advised against stirring with the element. The top of the unit where the cord joins the element gets warm and slightly soft, and apparently this is where it can fail if you use the element to stir. I took his word for it which is why I just hung the element and used my paddle to stir.

*Anything else?
Stating the bleeding obvious, but make sure you turn it off before pulling it out of the liquid.

 

[manticle]

To save a little bench space I'm looking at using an immersion heater for the mash only portion of my brew day, similar to the one pictured, so only need to get the wort to 75 deg or there abouts for mash out - no boil, and have a few questions for those familiar with them.


*Will a 2400 unit be suitable for volumes up to 40L without taking hours to reach the desired temp?

*Is it possible to use one in conjunction with some form of temp controller - ie - fridgemate - or would the amperage melt it?

*Are there issues with the grain sticking to the element, to that end whats the fix?

*Are they just hang over the side and go or doe you need to move them round and round?

*Is it worth getting one of the more fancy ones with an integrated thermostat?

*Anything else?

Cheers.

You mean final, pre-boil wort volume? Or mash tun mash volume? I make around 32 L of pre-boil per batch, first runnings plus one or two batch sparges. A 2400 does me well - esky volume is around 35 L. Usually at least 3-5 steps in my mash schedule.

Mash does not stick or burn on my element BUT - it will depend on mash thickness (most of mine aim for 2.5 - 3:1 ) and yes you do need to keep it moving. It will be very localised heat if you leave it in one spot - you need to move to heat evenly anyway. Clean between brews - you'll get some protein crud that will encourage burning if you don't (plus you should clean your stuff anyway).

I do not use a temp controller - I know people have in conjunction with timers for getting strike water ready. Not sure how well it would go for your intended purpose.

I don't know about fancy but definitely spend the money on a known brand like Grimwood. Don't get an imitation knockoff - chances are you'll get ten brews before you hear a pop and a smell.

 

[Dave70]

You mean final, pre-boil wort volume? Or mash tun mash volume? I make around 32 L of pre-boil per batch, first runnings plus one or two batch sparges. A 2400 does me well - esky volume is around 35 L. Usually at least 3-5 steps in my mash schedule.

Mash does not stick or burn on my element BUT - it will depend on mash thickness (most of mine aim for 2.5 - 3:1 ) and yes you do need to keep it moving. It will be very localised heat if you leave it in one spot - you need to move to heat evenly anyway. Clean between brews - you'll get some protein crud that will encourage burning if you don't (plus you should clean your stuff anyway).

I do not use a temp controller - I know people have in conjunction with timers for getting strike water ready. Not sure how well it would go for your intended purpose.

I don't know about fancy but definitely spend the money on a known brand like Grimwood. Don't get an imitation knockoff - chances are you'll get ten brews before you hear a pop and a smell.

Basically whatever Brewmate tells me is the total water required goes into the mash tun. Bring up to mash in temp, add grain, stir, check time, go away.

 

[manticle]

Should be fine

 

[ratchie]

I use one while recirculating to hold mash temp and to ramp up to mash out temp controlled by a STC 1000.Never had any sticking or burning issues.