How to plumb silicon hoses using camlocks

[antiphile]

I'm hoping to get the advice and experience of the experienced brewers to help me get off on the right foot in terms of the initial order of camlocks etc to get things started. Been trying to think of the best approach in terms of ease of use, consistency and sanitary requirements, but my thoughts are purely theoretical with absolutely no basis in practice. So I'm sure to have overlooked something obvious.

Pumps: are probably the easiest place to start because they both have half inch BSP threads on them. Oviously this requires a female threaded camlock, but I'm not sure whether to put a camlock with a male (Type A) or female (Type D) part on the other end. I'm tending slightly towards the Type D because as I understand it, the female camlock is where the silicon washer is housed (and these washes are more likely to be knocked out and lost if they are on the hoses).

Kettles: Using the same reasoning, I'm guessing female camlocks are the better choice, but using the Type B male thread to screw directly into the ball valve assembly.

Silicon Hoses: If the assumptions above are correct, these have to be a Type E male camlock with a barb (with or without stepless clamps). The huge advantage of having both ends of all hoses configured the same is the flexibilty of all the various hose lengths being interchangeable. But while typing this out, I realised the ends of the male camlocks might be more prone to damage (than a female end) if a hose gets dropped onto the cement floor.

I'd be really grateful for some advice.

Cheers

 

[crowmanz]

But while typing this out, I realised the ends of the male camlocks might be more prone to damage (than a female end) if a hose gets dropped onto the cement floor.

I don't have camlocks yet, been looking into it though, but most seem to recommend male on all stationary fittings (kettle and pumps) and female on hoses, to prevent damage. Additionally, the tabs pull back towards the threaded/barbed end on the female fittings and some instances on kettles or pumps there might not be the space or it might be harder.

 

[n87]

Female on hoses.
then when you uncouple them... your holding on to them so they dont fall over and spill sticky hot wort all over the place
Also... the rings arent (as) forking hot, so less chance of burning yourself.

 

[glenwal]

Female on hoses is the standard for most scenarios as it helps prevent damage when they are moved around.

If you have a male fitting on there and knock/drag/bump it around you can damage the actual fitting. Do the same with a female fitting and you'll just scuff up the outside.

 

[TheWiggman]

I use male ends for all my pots and female on the hoses. The females are more expensive (as per) so because I swap hoses around a bit depending on how I want things configured, I have more male camlocks in total. Brings the cost down a smidge and is in line with most similar connections in industry. Also like n87 says, when you disconnect you need to hold the female arm rings to release.
I got all mine with barbed ends on the females and where possible bought them as a kit pair.

When going through a pot wall for an elbow I used a Type F. I then secured it to the pot with a recessed nut and silicone washer on the inside, which leaves enough thread exposed for an elbow or threaded connector. Cheap, secure and effective.

On the pumps, I just go straight to a barb and then connect every brew day. Don't even use clamps with the barbs I have and have never had a leak. Then way I don't have large metal things hanging off and limit the chances of threads snapping.
Note the pump has since been upgraded to a Kaixin.

 

[antiphile]

Many thanks for the tips, gents. At the same time as doing these changes, I intend putiing a SS ball valve on the KK pump for flow control.. I'm pretty sure this is best put on the outflow part, but thought I'd better check in case I'm wrong on that one too! :blink:

 

[glenwal]

Many thanks for the tips, gents. At the same time as doing these changes, I intend putiing a SS ball valve on the KK pump for flow control.. I'm pretty sure this is best put on the outflow part, but thought I'd better check in case I'm wrong on that one too! :blink:

Yep, on the outlet side.

Doesn't have to be on the pump though, the valve can be on the vessel which removes the stress from the pump thread when opening/closing the valve.

 

[mofox1]

Ha... If you aren't getting a stainless head DO NOT put the ball valve on the pump.

I learnt this one day when the outlet snapped off

 

[antiphile]

It must be coincidence! A SS head was only put in the shopping cart this morning. I just need to work-up the courage to press the "checkout" button (especially after reading the Things you've bought while pissed thread). But now i think of it, it wouldn't be hard to put it on the kettle instead.

Time for another beer, methinks.

 

[crowmanz]

hmmm i have a ball valve on my plastic headed pump, might have to rearrange some things until i get a ss head

 

[mofox1]

My own experience:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/index.php?/topic/82380-Broken-pump-head

 

[Camo6]

Hold up y'all. I've had taps on both my pumps for ages and never broken nuthin. I've even got two on my wort pump. All it takes is a bit of care and a gentle touch. One would almost suspect that some of you brew under the influence of alcohol.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Yep you can throttle the outlet of the pump because it is magnetic drive. Don't restrict the suction side as this could cause cavitation on the impeller.

Edit. Peeps already commented, I hadn't refreshed my app lol. One for the first world problems thread.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Hold up y'all. I've had taps on both my pumps for ages and never broken nuthin. I've even got two on my wort pump. All it takes is a bit of care and a gentle touch. One would almost suspect that some of you brew under the influence of alcohol.

We all know about your "gentle touch" Camo, Cocko never shuts up about it.

 

[Camo6]

Bwahaha! So that's what he means when he says he can't feel a thing!

But to stay on topic, ahem, it's very sound advice to mount your tap remote from the pump or go a stainless head. I've been lucky with mine and have even gotten away with a bit of rough play but a couple of SS heads is next on the shopping list if my pumps are compatible.

 

[JDW81]

FWIW My plumbing of silicone hose and camlocks is:

Type F - male x 1/2" male on the outlet of all ball valves and inlet and outlet of RIMS tube.

Type A - male x 1/2" female on magnetic drive pump inlet and sparge arm return.

Type C - Female x 13mm barb in all lengths of hose.

I have a ball valve stuck to the outlet of my pump (not a SS head), but I didn't have a choice as the person who gave it to me stripped the thread and I managed to get it on but am not willing to remove it for the risk of doing more damage. For me the risk of damage the head by breaking off the ball valve is less than trying to change it around with a buggered thread.

JD

 

[mofox1]

Hold up y'all. I've had taps on both my pumps for ages and never broken nuthin. I've even got two on my wort pump. All it takes is a bit of care and a gentle touch. One would almost suspect that some of you brew under the influence of alcohol.

Oi!


















How did you know?

 

[Tex083]

I recently upgraded from hose tails to camlocks as I got sick of slicing open my hands on the worm drive clamps.
I have Male sockets on the ball valves, pumps and Hex. I got mine from Brewhardware.com with the postage from the USA it was still cheaper than local suppliers, I would have used a local but Brewhardware.com has some really cool high flow elbow/type B fittings as well as high flow type c fittings.
I also got a sick whirlpool arm and some sight tubes. Buy once and the shipping is ok wouldn't buy bits and pieces at a time or you are pissing your money away

 

[antiphile]

Cheers to everyone that has offered advice and their experience. I've read all of them and taken it onboard. I'm much more confident now about ordering and how to throttle back the KK pump. (For the pump, before putting another hole in the kettle, I'm going to go out on a limb and try a compromise experiment. I think, and hope, a metre of silicone hose and a set of camlock fittings is a smallish price to pay to test a ball valve within the length of hose on the outlet side of the pump. This will provide the option to bypass the valve entirely if wanted to take away another potential point of flow resistance.)

I'm certain a few months ago there would have been a huge cost benefit buying the parts directly from the US. But now with the exchange rate and I suspect the pre-depreciation stocks here in Oz at the moment, it looks like the benefit may not be quite as significant. Though I take your point about some of their modded connectors like the "oversize" high flow fittings.

Many thanks again to everyone.

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

Jusy an FYI, a ball valve isnt a flow resistance. The bore of the ball is equal to the pipe inner diameter, which is the main benefit of a ball valve. Extra 2 cents, good luck!