How do Beerbelly bulkheads seal?

[shoobs]

http://www.ibrew.com.au/products/weldless-bulkhead

These are the ones your after right?

I thought so when I first saw them, but I don't think they are. The flange is actually just a stainless washer. It is also NPT rather than BSP, and I don't think it'll be long enough for a 25mm thick wall.

 

[djar007]

Sorry i missed the 25 mm wall bit.

 

[Camo6]

http://www.ibrew.com.au/products/weldless-bulkhead

These are the ones your after right?

They still look to me like a straight female nipple fixed to a piece of threaded tube so they'd still need a sealant.


Personally the pic at the start of the thread clearly shows two nuts, washers and seals on a threaded rod. The same principle I used on my entire system and the same many other brewers use. You've hardly been duped.

Why don't you take the fittings to a SS welder and get them to run a quick bead around one nut flange on each fitting? ****, if everyone expected a refund every time they bought something they regretted there'd be a lot less Holden's on the road.

 

[djar007]

You mean ford's surely.

Edit: I think best but not cheapest would be a stainless bolt the length and thread you need. And machine a hole through it. Tap an internal thread if you need one.

 

[shoobs]

Personally the pic at the start of the thread clearly shows two nuts, washers and seals on a threaded rod. The same principle I used on my entire system and the same many other brewers use. You've hardly been duped.

Why don't you take the fittings to a SS welder and get them to run a quick bead around one nut flange on each fitting? ****, if everyone expected a refund every time they bought something they regretted there'd be a lot less Holden's on the road.

Yeah, I can see it now I have the thing in my hands. Back when someone confirmed the design of their Beerbelly bulkheads as a solid flange, it just assumed that it was that back locknut that was a flange solidly connected to the nipple (as in the whole lot had been machined out of hex bar stock).

If Beerbelly are still adamant about no refund (and I guess they are, I think that bridge has been burnt), the plan is to either have a SS welder lay a bead or silver solder the nut to the nipple. I'd love to just weld a fitting to the thermopot, but I don't think the insulation would like the heat.

I understand that stores don't HAVE to offer a refund for change of mind. A lot do, especially online stores where it isn't possible to fully inspect a product before buying it. I just had a quick look at some of Beerbelly's competitors' refund policies, and have yet to find one that doesn't offer one for their products, so long as they are returned in as-new condition.

You mean ford's surely.

Edit: I think best but not cheapest would be a stainless bolt the length and thread you need. And machine a hole through it. Tap an internal thread if you need one.

Actually, for bulkhead fittings without a thread inside the vessel, the best I've found are marine skin fittings. They're reasonably priced (~$17), will go through wall thicknesses >50mm, and have a big ol' flange and locknut. You can put a big silicone gasket underneath the flange and it'll seal perfectly. I've installed one in my mash tun to bottom drain.

 

[tavas]

Seriously have you even tried it as is?

 

[shoobs]

Seriously have you even tried it as is?

I'll be trying it as-is for my kettle, because it doesn't really matter if I get a small leak. I'd rather not risk it for my mash tun. If it does leak, it'll leak between the walls of a rather expensive stainless thermopot. Not somewhere that should get wet.

I realise I'm being a bit of a perfectionist here, but I like to do things right the first time. I'm also not the first person to question the locknut method of making bulkheads. So many people have had issues with them that brewhardware.com has come out with a new line that they call .

 

[tavas]

So how do you know it won't work?
I think you should try it first before bagging out a product on a public forum.
I understand you want a perfect solution, but seriously mate you went and bought something, didn't try it and then whinged about it. And expected a refund for a product that didn't work, without trying it.

Try it first before shitcanning it

 

[shoobs]

So how do you know it won't work?
I think you should try it first before bagging out a product on a public forum.
I understand you want a perfect solution, but seriously mate you went and bought something, didn't try it and then whinged about it. And expected a refund for a product that didn't work, without trying it.

Try it first before shitcanning it

I'm pretty sure it will work, given enough thread tape under the locknuts. I'm also pretty sure that I could brew a beer using gravel as the mash filter The reason I want a bulkhead with a solid flange is the same reason that people use stainless instead of brass, and camlocks instead of garden hose disconnects, etc, etc.

I've never bagged out Brewbelly's product directly, just pointed out that I was disappointed with their customer service. I have had a bit of a rant against the two locknut and nipple design, and yes, Beerbelly now use that design. Given the hit rate for installing a weldless bulkhead without any leak is only 65% going by this poll, I think it is fair to start questioning the design. Like I said, I'm not the only one, there are now companies specifically redesigning their bulkheads to be better.

Rest assured, I will be trying the fittings. The quality of the actual nipple, locknuts and general fit and finish is pretty good. I'm also fairly certain I can permanently affix one locknut to the nipple to achieve what I want.

 

[Parks]

All you need to do is have thread tape on one lock nut and it essentially becomes the same as the welded fitting you seek. One perfectly sealed lock nut on the inside of your vessel with one O ring between it and the wall is it - that's your seal.

I really prefer this design because you can adjust how far your threaded pipe extends either inside or outside the vessel.