Hi, I'm new and want some help please

[Spiesy]

as well as its storage time, pitching rate, number of generations and purity that affect its vitality, let alone the environment its stored in or fermenting in.

many many variables.

for a new brewer I'd suggest keeping it very simple by starting with a dried yeast at the dosage and method recommended by the manufacturer, and take it from there.

Whilst I agree with keeping it simple, opening a vial or smack pack of fresh liquid yeast isn't much harder than opening a sachet of dried yeast.

Just make sure it's fresh.

 

[cessnockles]

Hi Mini Mash,

Any chance of meeting up some stage to share ideas?

 

[sp0rk]

Just a note, the name in orange is the user name
(mine is sp0rk)

 

[brzt6060]

Don't bother saving the kit yeasts, just chuck them in the bin.

Save them and use them as yeast nutrient by adding them to the boil...

 

[altone]

Hey cessnockles , welcome to the forum. I guarantee you'll learn a helluva lot here.

As someone who has created many allgrain brews in the past and currently scaled back to cans and bits.
I'd say the liquid yeast thing may not be that worthwhile until you go at least to the "specialty grains" level

For cans of goop I have found quick and reliable fermentation to be the key.
If you want a quick ferment with liquid yeasts, you'll need to make a starter around 3 days before you start your brew.

If you are new, I'd stick to US05 or Nottingham and if you've only got 1 fermenter - go buy another one.
After a few days once the bubbler slows down to a tick a minute or so, rack it to your second fermenter, leaving most of the trub behind.
Do everything you can to avoid oxygenation when you are racking e.g. use tubing to drop into the base of your 2nd fermenter
I even squirt C02 in the fermenter first.

This will likely improve your brews far more than a liquid yeast would and is simpler to do.

Obviously you WILL use liquid yeasts as you progress and start to try and brew more exotic beers.

The greatest improvement to cans is adding flavor hops - something I always do when moving to the 2nd fermenter.

There are lots of recipes here you can follow and they are all pretty good.

Don't ask me for my BB Pale Ale can recipe unless you grew up in the UK - it's a warm low gas abomination based on a Coopers Pale Ale can - I quite like it though

Good luck mate.

 

[Yob]

After a few days once the bubbler slows down to a tick a minute or so, rack it to your second fermenter, leaving most of the trub behind.

Racking is not really required, if you have a reason for it, sure, such as racking onto fruit or other such types of things, its not needed in the norm though, just adds another risk without much benefit at all for the everyday kind of brew.

Having the ability to cold condition (even if you dont, time will do it) will compact the trub nicely and shouldnt be an issue for most brews.

 

[indica86]

wrong wrong and wrong.

. A lot of those awesome flavours in sourdough come from the funky bacteria and yeast that float around the air; perfect for bread, not so for beer.


JD

 

[JDW81]

wrong wrong and wrong.

My comments were an over simplification to try and not confuse a new brewer who is trying learn. Of course there are funky flavours that come from yeast and bacteria in beer, which are integral to style, but they are still pure strains (for the most part) which are specifically isolated for those particular styles. But that isn't really helpful for someone who is still learning the difference between dry and liquid yeast.

It's probably worth adding that simply saying someone is wrong isn't really that helpful either. By all means tell me (or someone else) you think their comments are incorrect, but then add in some useful information or discussion to help us all to learn.

JD

 

[indica86]

Yeast on the kernel of unbleached wheat is in sourdough. Not random yeast from the air.
Lactobacillus grows and provides the lovely sourness and the health benefits.
Sorry for the prior short reply.