Hermit Coil Heat Exchange Build

[AndrewQLD]

I'd agree with CM2, his suggestions would benefit some who have less build experience.
Here's a pic of the finished product with thanks to Nev and Batz. The build was easy and from tests I am hoping for faster ramp times compared to my old HERMS, I'll be doing my first brew tomorrow so fingers crossed.
She has more silicone than Pamela Anderson and looks better too :lol:

 

[brettprevans]

I'd agree with CM2, his suggestions would benefit some who have less build experience.
Here's a pic of the finished product with thanks to Nev and Batz. The build was easy and from tests I am hoping for faster ramp times compared to my old HERMS, I'll be doing my first brew tomorrow so fingers crossed.
She has more silicone than Pamela Anderson and looks better too :lol:

View attachment 53396

nothing wrong with silicone. its stuff of the gods along with WD40

edit: the only other suggestion i'd include is a note saying that blue plumbers glue sets fkn fast. get that pipe fitted quicky cause once it starts to set, it sets hard.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

nothing wrong with silicone. its stuff of the gods along with WD40

edit: the only other suggestion i'd include is a note saying that blue plumbers glue sets fkn fast. get that pipe fitted quicky cause once it starts to set, it sets hard.

I got all the updates ready, will have the Build Guide V3 out next week.
I am just waiting on my commission from Bunnings.
CM2 you will find that your coil holes will get loose of a few uses and its easier to get the coil in and out. I now use a couple of keg post O rings to hold the coil (ends) from dropping in the HX. Cheap fix.
I would also increase vent hole to 10mm as I boiled my HX intentionally and the water shot out of the small hole like a volcano. Larger hole should fix this.
Nev

 

[AndrewQLD]

Gave the coil a run today, managed 2 degree per minute ramp from 67 degrees to 78 degrees, the mash was 16lt to 3.75 kg grain, seems about the same as my old herms, however being such a small compact unit using less volume of water over the coil means a faster heat up time of the water itself which is great.
I didn't experience any warping of the PVC and it didn't get soft even when I ramped up to mash out at 78 degrees, great little design Nev.

 

[ekul]

Good to see you firing up the brewery Andrew! I'm thinking about adding one of these coils to my biab rig for mash control.

Gave the coil a run today, managed 2 degree per minute ramp from 67 degrees to 78 degrees, the mash was 16lt to 3.75 kg grain, seems about the same as my old herms, however being such a small compact unit using less volume of water over the coil means a faster heat up time of the water itself which is great.
I didn't experience any warping of the PVC and it didn't get soft even when I ramped up to mash out at 78 degrees, great little design Nev.

View attachment 53417View attachment 53418

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

Gave the coil a run today, managed 2 degree per minute ramp from 67 degrees to 78 degrees, the mash was 16lt to 3.75 kg grain, seems about the same as my old herms, however being such a small compact unit using less volume of water over the coil means a faster heat up time of the water itself which is great.
I didn't experience any warping of the PVC and it didn't get soft even when I ramped up to mash out at 78 degrees, great little design Nev.

View attachment 53417View attachment 53418

Andrew
Thats great, how was your flow rate ?
The reason I ask is that if you can increase the flow rate the unit should ramp quicker, this does depend on your false bottom design and grain bed formation.
I would rather slower ramp than stuck mash though.
Nev

 

[AndrewQLD]

Andrew
Thats great, how was your flow rate ?
The reason I ask is that if you can increase the flow rate the unit should ramp quicker, this does depend on your false bottom design and grain bed formation.
I would rather slower ramp than stuck mash though.
Nev

Nev
I could have increased the flow a little more as the mash was fairly loose, I was recirculating at about 4 lt per minute I think, I'm happy with the ramp rate as is 2, degrees a minute is pretty good and I don't want to push my luck.

ekul, sounds like your heady towards a 3v system mate

 

[Truman42]

The easiest way I found to flatten the pipe was I placed a piece of pine 3.5" x 1.5" inside the pipe with the short end up and shimmed it with a wooden ruler underneath so it was a tight fit against the wall of the pipe. then I heated my pipe and pressed a piece of flat steel against the top which pushed the pipe down flat against my wooden block inside.

Unfortunately I found this out on my second attempt so had to reheat again after I had drilled the hole. Hopefully it wont leak or its back to the drawing board.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

The easiest way I found to flatten the pipe was I placed a piece of pine 3.5" x 1.5" inside the pipe with the short end up and shimmed it with a wooden ruler underneath so it was a tight fit against the wall of the pipe. then I heated my pipe and pressed a piece of flat steel against the top which pushed the pipe down flat against my wooden block inside.

Unfortunately I found this out on my second attempt so had to reheat again after I had drilled the hole. Hopefully it wont leak or its back to the drawing board.

Yep some blocking on the inside is the go. Second attempts are becoming the norm, hence my suggestion take your time.
Nev

 

[iralosavic]

Just wondering if anyone has contemplated the use of a Thermos as the housing for this?

The lids are designed to remain air/liquid tight under pressure and the walls are rather well insulated. I'm not sure of the ID of the one I've linked to, but I'm sure there is one out there to suit the coil. It's a bit more expensive than the PVC build, but would offer superior longevity and thermal properties.

Cheers

 

[kelbygreen]

I am making my own (might get nevs coil as not sure if mine will cut it) but I am thinking of a bain marie canister for utensils. They are 2 lts about 144mm wide and 170mm high SS have a few other sizes to but for the price its cheap as

 

[sean_0]

Just wondering if anyone has contemplated the use of a Thermos as the housing for this?

The lids are designed to remain air/liquid tight under pressure and the walls are rather well insulated. I'm not sure of the ID of the one I've linked to, but I'm sure there is one out there to suit the coil. It's a bit more expensive than the PVC build, but would offer superior longevity and thermal properties.

Cheers

I think the vaccum is a big part of their insulating ability, and you would probably have to break it to get an element in there.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

Just wondering if anyone has contemplated the use of a Thermos as the housing for this?

The lids are designed to remain air/liquid tight under pressure and the walls are rather well insulated. I'm not sure of the ID of the one I've linked to, but I'm sure there is one out there to suit the coil. It's a bit more expensive than the PVC build, but would offer superior longevity and thermal properties.

Cheers

Yes I had looked at this option but couldnt find the right size thermos flask with a big enough opening.
Nev

 

[iralosavic]

I am making my own (might get nevs coil as not sure if mine will cut it) but I am thinking of a bain marie canister for utensils. They are 2 lts about 144mm wide and 170mm high SS have a few other sizes to but for the price its cheap as

I'd looked at ice buckets/champagne coolers, but the dimensions were off. I was basing my search on the ready-made HERMs coil... To suit said coil, the dimensions you've mentioned are too wide and not heigh enough. What are your plans regarding coiling your own pipe? Also, one of the reasons I thought of a thermos is due to the fact that the lid can be screwed on. One of the design issues in my mind was a lid that is both removable and able to hold a reasonable amount of pressure in a water tight fashion (don't want evaporation to lift the lid).

 

[kelbygreen]

well my coil is about 110mm wide and only 150 tall but I need to get a element to figure out if it will fit. They have a 3lt version but its wider and taller, I would like it to just be taller but struggling to find something that is unless I get something made up. I really dont want to go PVC as I like to leave my brewery and do other things and if something where to go wrong then I would rather burnt wort then burnt shed $45 in grain lost is bugger all compaired to my shed and my brewery burning to the ground. Not saying pvc is not the way to go but for $25 for a 2lt SS canister I would feel alot safer.

 

[iralosavic]

well my coil is about 110mm wide and only 150 tall but I need to get a element to figure out if it will fit. They have a 3lt version but its wider and taller, I would like it to just be taller but struggling to find something that is unless I get something made up. I really dont want to go PVC as I like to leave my brewery and do other things and if something where to go wrong then I would rather burnt wort then burnt shed $45 in grain lost is bugger all compaired to my shed and my brewery burning to the ground. Not saying pvc is not the way to go but for $25 for a 2lt SS canister I would feel alot safer.

Your thoughts echo my own, especially after the PVC "melt-down" of my hop spider V1.0

I think a custom coil would be easier to DIY or cheaper to have made up, so better off buying the canister ready-made.

How would you get around the lid just sitting in place? Or do you think that isn't a concern?

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

well my coil is about 110mm wide and only 150 tall but I need to get a element to figure out if it will fit. They have a 3lt version but its wider and taller, I would like it to just be taller but struggling to find something that is unless I get something made up. I really dont want to go PVC as I like to leave my brewery and do other things and if something where to go wrong then I would rather burnt wort then burnt shed $45 in grain lost is bugger all compaired to my shed and my brewery burning to the ground. Not saying pvc is not the way to go but for $25 for a 2lt SS canister I would feel alot safer.

Melt Down Its never going to happen if you have a controller directing the power to the HX. Either way you still need a controller and thats what makes it safe, not the canister.
Nev

 

[iralosavic]

Melt Down Its never going to happen if you have a controller directing the power to the HX. Either way you still need a controller and thats what makes it safe, not the canister.
Nev

Yeah, look I personally don't think that PVC is likely to introduce issues at sub 80c - maybe some softening, perhaps minor or temporary distortion in the worst case. I guess I'm just more of a metal guy! I might end up making a HE as per your pdf, but I have plenty of time to explore other housing options meanwhile. My main thing is that I'd rather buy a professionally spun coil than attempt doing it myself.

 

[kelbygreen]

I had about 2.4m of 1/2" cooper laying about so attempted my own its rough and its got little kinks but wort will flow threw. I will get a SS one when I get some money but trying to just sus stuff out with what I got ATM. Still rather SS for a canister but if I cant find anything suitable then it will have to be PVC.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

Yeah, look I personally don't think that PVC is likely to introduce issues at sub 80c - maybe some softening, perhaps minor or temporary distortion in the worst case. I guess I'm just more of a metal guy! I might end up making a HE as per your pdf, but I have plenty of time to explore other housing options meanwhile. My main thing is that I'd rather buy a professionally spun coil than attempt doing it myself.

No it wont happen even setting the controller at mash out 77C. I have insulated my PVC HX rocket to hold heat in and it doesnt look like getting unstable.
The system was designed and tested to do what it does. Go outside the design loop and I would appreciate the results for future reference.
Nev