Help With First Ag, Technique And Equipment Required

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ashhash

New Member
Joined
19/10/09
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Hey all

So ive decided to try my first AG brew and am already pretty confused and hoping for some advice!
Ive had a bit of a search around on the forum but cant find a definitive answer to my questions, sorry if they're a bit dopey. :icon_drunk:

First is regarding the mash.
The recipe says to mash the grains, with gypsum, for 90 mins.
It doesn't say what temp.
Is there a general, standard sort of temperature and technique for mashing?

Can I do without a mash tun or is it really an essential part of the setup?

Im not phased about having to build or buy equipment, any advice you could give about which gear I should get would be great.

Cheers
Ash
 
Hey all

So ive decided to try my first AG brew and am already pretty confused and hoping for some advice!
Ive had a bit of a search around on the forum but cant find a definitive answer to my questions, sorry if they're a bit dopey. :icon_drunk:

Don't worry. Questions and knowledge are why most of us are here

First is regarding the mash.
The recipe says to mash the grains, with gypsum, for 90 mins.

It doesn't say what temp.


Is there a general, standard sort of temperature and technique for mashing?

Temperature is usually between about 63 and 68 with 65/66 being good interim temperatures.

Essentially the lower end will give you a drier beer that will attenuate better but may be a bit thinner. The higher end will give you a sweeter, fuller bodied beer. Thus it depends on the style - maltier beers may be better mashed higher (although there are exceptions - super high gravity beers might be better a touch lower for balance) drier paler styles might be better at the lower end. If in doubt aim for 65.

Can I do without a mash tun or is it really an essential part of the setup?

It's essential to have either a mash tun OR a large bag and stockpot/urn capable of full boil. The brew in a bag concept allows less equipment for making AG. Look for BIAB or brew in a bag. There is a great guide on here somewhere - I think in the wiki articles. You do need something though.

Im not phased about having to build or buy equipment, any advice you could give about which gear I should get would be great.

If you go for traditional you will need an insulated vessel. Some use eskies, some use modified kegs with insulation or camping foam. Anything that can hold your mash at temperature for at least an hour and that can hold the amount of liquid you need (at least half of your boil volume at any one time). It will need to be modified with a manifold (can be stainless steel, can be copper). It will also need to be fitted with a tap which connects to the manifold. If you decide to go down this road there are many threads. Happy to link you if you struggle to find them. You will also need a pot to heat water and a pot to boil the wort (you can double up if you use a sanitised fermenter to store the wort - this is what I do). You will need silicon hose for all your taps. Obviously these pots need to be able to hold full volume (or you could be like me and have smaller pots but take longer). BIAB requires only the one pot I think.

You will need a way to chill your wort quickly (water bath, immersion chiller, chiller plate etc) OR you can no chill in a cube which means transferring hot wort through a hose to a sanitised container. Usually you aim for a container with very little headspace. The hot wort keeps away the bugs and the lack of oxygen in the 'cube' means you can ferment at a later point rather than waiting for the wort to cool to pitching temperature.

You will need to crack your grain - you can either by a mill or get your grain supplier to crack it for you.

You will also need to know how to brew and how to ferment. No need to rush into AG - a method is only as good as the person using it.

Any questions you have - someone here will be happy to help (well almost any question)
 
Hi Ash & welcome. I'm actually working on a guide that would probably suit you down to the ground, but it is a few days off being complete. It sounds like you might've brewed kits before, if so you'll have a fermenter and just need to be able to fill it? Also, let us know what the recipe is.

As you indicated you're not fussed on all the equipment or building things, I can highly recommend the BIAB/ stockpot method. You can pick a BIAB bag up through AHB site sponsors for less than $10, see the banner of the top of the page, 19L stockpots are about $20 at big double u style chain stores etc. There are no modifications necessary to the pot, the bag is best with a drawstring but not entirely necessary. You'll also need a thermometer, the important range to cover is 60 - 75 degC, having a large sieve that sits in the top of the fermenter would be good but entirely necessary to begin with.

The method (simplified):
1) Heat the water in the stockpot, about 3/4 full, aim for about 4 or 5 degC above the mashing temp in the recipe.
2) Put the bag in, secure it around the rim, add the cracked grain and stir, check temp. Insulate it well then let it sit for at least an hour.
3) Carefully lift the bag out, hang it over a saucepan or bucket to drain, squeeze it with gloves to get a much of the liquid out and add that to the stockpot.
4) Put the stockpot on the stove, you need it to boil for an hour while adding the hops as per the recipe. Before the boil is finished, put the lid on partially to sanitise it.
5) Once the boil is finished, put the pot in the laundry tub and add water to cool, change the water a couple of times to cool it to room temp, leaving it overnight is good.
6) Pour the cool liquid through the sieve (to catch hops debris) into the sanitised fermenter, add the yeast at 20C.
7) Leave the fermenter in a dead fridge/ a cool spot where the temperature is about 20C until fermentation is complete etc.

This method doesn't need any fancy expensive equipment or difficult building of stuff, what you do need is all easy to obtain and doesn't need modification plus you can make excellent beer. In fact, I use this method all of the time, although with a few slightly different steps (sparging etc), but you don't need to worry about any of that for now. This way you can have a go it all- grain brewing to see if it really is for you, if it isn't then you're not out of pocket by hundreds of dollars and then also have some largely- useless equipment, if it is then it is just onward and upward!
The other guys have posted links to articles and other info, strongly recommend reading it all, feel free to post any questions!
:beer:
 
When doing a BIAB do you fill the stockpot with your full batch amount? (e.g. 23L + extra to account for evaporation)
 
When doing a BIAB do you fill the stockpot with your full batch amount? (e.g. 23L + extra to account for evaporation)

BIAB, in its basic form is a "full volume" method. You add enough water (liquor) at the start to last you the whole brew = final wort volume + water absorbed by the grain + evaporation.

The variables are how dry you can get the mash after draining and squeezing, which depends on the grain bill size and the nature of the grains - and the evaporation rate depends on the fierceness and length of the boil. If by the end of the boil it looks like you are not going to make the required wort volume, there's nothing wrong with topping up with boiling water.
 
When doing a BIAB do you fill the stockpot with your full batch amount? (e.g. 23L + extra to account for evaporation)


In a simple answer yes.

My method is 29L of water in the pot, mash etc.
Mash out and drain most water back into pot
Using a seperate bucket, add grain bag, and sparge using 4L of sparge water,
add sparged water to pot.

Boil down to 25L. Allow approx 1-2L loss in the bottom of the kettle. So about 23L output.

QldKev
 
Sorry to confuse you further, but Id avoid treating your water with gypsum unless you know the chemistry of your area's water. Chances are whoever wrote that recipe lives in an area with completely different water chemistry to yours. Generally for beginners concentrate on mashing/boiling/fermenting and save water hardness and pH until you have a bit more experience.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top