First AG - Mash Question

[Leyther]

My Guten arrives tomorrow and I'm going to put on my first AG brew this weekend, Ive done some research and I'm going to go with the well recomended Dr Smurto Golden Ale.

I've downloaded the Beersmith 2 app and printed out the receipe however I have a question on the boil size and mash directions.

Mash Profile
Mash Name: Single Infusion, Full Body
Sparge Water: 10.39 l
Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C
Adjust Temp for Equipment: FALSE
Est Mash PH: 5.61
Measured Mash PH: 5.20
Total Grain Weight: 5.05 kg
Grain Temperature: 22.2 C
Tun Temperature: 22.2 C
Target Mash PH: 5.20
Mash Acid Addition:
Sparge Acid Addition:

Mash Steps
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Mash In Add 13.17 l of water at 75.7 C 68.9 C 45 min
Mash Out Add 5.27 l of water at 94.7 C 75.6 C 10 min
Sparge: Fly sparge with 10.39 l water at 75.6 C

Mash Notes: Simple single infusion mash for use with most modern well modified grains (about 95% of the time).

So please bear with my limited understanding at this point. Am I correct in assuming the following:

Step 1 - heat 13.17L of water to 75.7 then add my grain for a target temp of 68.9 and hold 68.9 for 45min
Step 2 - heat additional 5.27 of water at 94.7C , add to mash for target of 75.6 and hold for 10min
Step 3 - sparge with the remaining 10.39L

My concern is around step 2 (Mash Out), wont 94.7C water cause potential tannings in the grain to be released? or will the fact I'm addining it to 68.9C water just bring the temp of the total boil to around the target 75.6 in a timely enough manner that this isnt anything to be concerned with.

Also with Beersmith there are various options for the infusion, I just choose 'Single Infusion, Full Body' would there be a more appropriate setting for this ale?

 

[manticle]

Pretty much got it sussed - that temp water will raise the entire grainbed and single infusion, medium - full body would be my guess for what started life as a UK pale.

Remember software only predicts so measure everything and see how accurate it is for you. You may need to tweak some beersmith settings for next time.

Think and plan but don't forget to relax and enjoy the day.

 

[Jack of all biers]

My concern is around step 2 (Mash Out), wont 94.7C water cause potential tannings in the grain to be released? or will the fact I'm addining it to 68.9C water just bring the temp of the total boil to around the target 75.6 in a timely enough manner that this isnt anything to be concerned with.

Answered that question yourself, pretty much. Tannins won't be instantly released. Keep the main temp below 80C and you should be right. Many of us have been adding 95C water at larger amounts that 5.27L and don't get tannin extraction from it. In fact, many of us, and many brewers of the years have been boiling part of the mash for up to 45 mins at a time to get the temp steps. Decoction is the name. I have never heard of tannin extraction from Decoction, so you will be fine. If you are that worried about it, you could convert the temp to 80C or less, but the volume you add will increase to get to the 75C mash out rest you want.

Just a personal opinion here and you are free to take it as such. You don't need a mash out rest. You can fly sparge with 76-78C water directly onto your 68.9C temp and it won't effect anything. The mash out is really not necessary for most recipes. 68.9C? Why not 69C? :blink:

EDIT - added bit about Decoctions

 

[Leyther]

Answered that question yourself, pretty much. Tannins won't be instantly released. Keep the main temp below 80C and you should be right. Many of us have been adding 95C water at larger amounts that 5.27L and don't get tannin extraction from it. In fact, many of us, and many brewers of the years have been boiling part of the mash for up to 45 mins at a time to get the temp steps. Decoction is the name. I have never heard of tannin extraction from Decoction, so you will be fine. If you are that worried about it, you could convert the temp to 80C or less, but the volume you add will increase to get to the 75C mash out rest you want.

Just a personal opinion here and you are free to take it as such. You don't need a mash out rest. You can fly sparge with 76-78C water directly onto your 68.9C temp and it won't effect anything. The mash out is really not necessary for most recipes. 68.9C? Why not 69C? :blink:

EDIT - added bit about Decoctions

haha, just quoting the numbers from beersmith, I'm not going to be that anal about the .1 when I'm brewing it!!

 

[Lionman]

You shouldn't need to add pre heated water to reach mash out temp. You have an electronically controlled electric brewery. You can ramp the temp up with the Guten to Mash out, hold for ten mins then raise the malt pipe and sparge.


Im guessing Beersmith assumes you are infusion mashing in a non heated tun.

You don't really need to even heat the sparge water. Many people sparge with cold water and get perfectly acceptable efficiency. The malt will have enough residual heat to warm the sparge water significantly by the time it drains from the malt pipe.

 

[Leyther]

Ok, another newbie Q on this before I take the plunge, given I can set the Guten to heat to mash temp and hence don't need to add boiling water to get there.

The question now is what do I do with this additional 5.27l of water it was telling me to add, can I just add this to the strike water or am I better adding to the sparge volume?

i.e. do I
1) strike with 18..44L (13.17+5.27) and sparge with 10.39L
2) strike with the original 13.17L but sparge with 15.66L (10.39+5.27)

Thanks for all your patience with my noob questions, I'm getting there!!!

 

[Lionman]

I would probably go with the first option but to be honest, I'm not that experienced.

One thing I have heard people talk about though is being cautious when heating during or after mash. It may be wise to reduce the power output at this stage on the Guten to ensure you don't scorch the wort.

 

[Leyther]

I should probably have chosen a different beersmith method, I'll have another play around tonight, there didn't seem an obvious one (to me) for these types of setup.

Just googling sounds like I should use BIAB

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Being as it your first one Leyther go with the first option 18 litres you are going to lose 2.5 to dead space and you are going to lose x amount to grain absorption and depending on your boil you will lose x amount to evaporation, unless you are lucky you won't get it right first go, just write down everything you do it will all come together with time and usage, I used Brewers Friend and it came out pretty close.