Guton burn't

[Ghostie]

Hi everyone, second time this has happened to me. Brewing a Hefeweizen using a Guton 40 ltr, BIAB, no sparge, hop bags, 75 min boil, 27 litres starting water. After moving wort to the fermentor I found that the bottom plate was burn't with what I have read previously as protein. Some scraping with my fingernails helped but still have burn't scunge on the bottom.

So......two questions.....1. how to stop this happening for my Hefeweizens (have done 3 Hefe...2 burn't bottoms, done 14 brews overall.

and 2.....Does anyone know how to clean the base?....the first time I used a knife....not the best.

thanks so much

 

[MHB]

Oven Spray works well - Take all care (eye protection , gloves...) - otherwise its Brillo pad, steel wool and elbow grease. If its really extreme cases about 5L of water and enough Caustic Soda to make a 2% solution, boil for half an hour. Again Take all care, I have a 30+ year old scar from caustic, get it in your eyes and it will blind you, dispose of carefully...

Wheat has a higher Protein content than does Barley Malt so if your recipe calls for a lot of wheat (say over 50%) your chances of scorching go way up. You may be able to reduce the wheat fraction. Stirring or running a recirculating pump while heating from Mash to Boil temperatures may help, as it stops the condensed protein settling on the element (some).

Not all Wheat Malts are created equal, unlike malting barley there aren't special brewing wheat varieties, so the grain available to the maltsters isn't as well suited to brewing.
I find German wheat malt is better, either they are better at choosing what to malt, they have better choices or they are better at malting wheat, personally I don't think you can do better than Weyermann Wheat Malt, I find it preforms and tastes better than anything else I have used.
Mark

 

[wessmith]

Oven Spray works well - Take all care (eye protection , gloves...) - otherwise its Brillo pad, steel wool and elbow grease. If its really extreme cases about 5L of water and enough Caustic Soda to make a 2% solution, boil for half an hour. Again Take all care, I have a 30+ year old scar from caustic, get it in your eyes and it will blind you, dispose of carefully...

Wheat has a higher Protein content than does Barley Malt so if your recipe calls for a lot of wheat (say over 50%) your chances of scorching go way up. You may be able to reduce the wheat fraction. Stirring or running a recirculating pump while heating from Mash to Boil temperatures may help, as it stops the condensed protein settling on the element (some).

Not all Wheat Malts are created equal, unlike malting barley there aren't special brewing wheat varieties, so the grain available to the maltsters isn't as well suited to brewing.
I find German wheat malt is better, either they are better at choosing what to malt, they have better choices or they are better at malting wheat, personally I don't think you can do better than Weyermann Wheat Malt, I find it preforms and tastes better than anything else I have used.
Mark

Hey Mark, go easy on the Brillo pads and steel wool. NEVER use them on stainless steel. Agree with you on wheat malts, I never use or recommend local wheat malt sadly, may be OK in small doses but not for a Hefeweizen. Weyermann is always a good bet but Best Malz and Gladfield do great wheat malts. I would also suggest Ghostie makes sure he has full conversion. A simple starch test should be a standard step in brewing.
Wes

 

[MHB]

Fair cop, I have a couple of small Stainless wire brushes (get them from a commercial Barista supply) which work pretty well.
Mark

 

[Ghostie]

Thanks for your replies. I never thought of using oven cleaner. Am using it now....and most of the burnt black is coming off. I really enjoy a Hefeweizen beer so I'll try again shortly and use a little less wheat.

 

[krz]

Use Vinegar

 

[user 37368]

Why not use steel wool in a kettle?

I use a stainless scourer that you'd get at a $2 shop.

 

[The Mack]

I suspect it is because you can remove the protective oxidised layer on the stainless

 

[wessmith]

I suspect it is because you can remove the protective oxidised layer on the stainless

Any cleaning of stainless steel be it mechanical or chemical will remove the protective oxidised layer. That layer becomes re-oxidised very quickly. The issue with using steel wool or brillo pads is they are made from normal steel containing iron as in Fe. That iron bonds with the stainless steel surface catalysing rusting. If any rust is present you can pickle the surface with a phosphoric nitric acid solution or sand off the area with a scotchbrite pad or even wet and dry paper.
This rusting issue is well known in metalworking trades and is sometimes referred to as "wild iron" impregnation. Usually the tools for stainless steel are kept separate, cutoff discs being a major risk for impregnation. Even cutting or forming stainless steel with tool steels and dies can cause rusting on the finished parts which are usually all pickled after fabrication.
Wes

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Why not use steel wool in a kettle?

I use a stainless scourer that you'd get at a $2 shop.

What you are doing even with a stainless steel scourer is scratching the surface giving a key for any sugar to settle in, as mentioned by krz vinegar soak will work, I just squeeze a couple of grapefruit, limes or whatever other citrus fruit I have around into a film of water and leave it for 10 minutes.
Mashing on a lower wattage seems to help too.

 

[Ballaratguy]

I only have my Guten set at 1700w for any stage
You will then get a bit of crud set on the bottom but that comes off with vinegar and a non metallic scourer (the sort that they recommend for Teflon pots)

 

[Ghostie]

Thanks to all your replies. I have not tried using lower than 2500w before so i might do that for my Hefeweizens as this brew is the only one I seem to burn my bottom. I also try to scrape any crud off the bottom during the boiling phase to try and stop the burning to happen. I just hope the burnt bottom only darkens the brew and not change the taste.

My mash was made up of 4 different decoctions (4 mash temps and rests) so I may go back to basics for the next Hefe.....unless this one turns out awesome.

 

[billygoat]

Citric acid is good for removing protein from electric elements.