GUTEN

[Truman42]

I believe that it is recoverable mash dead space - dead space under the mash tun that is recovered. There are no lauter tun or mash losses in an all in one system, besides grain absorption.

When trying to work out what these are, you can usually hover over the entry box for them in BS and it will give you a description of it, that should help. As well as actually looking at the tutorials and info in the help manual, of course

Ah ok that makes sense. I tried holding the cursor over the entry box but nothing came up. Im on the trial version of BS3 so maybe thats why.

 

[Truman42]

Some piece of mind knowing that the Guten is now going to be covered by a 2 year warranty.

So I just brought one secondhand that was purchased 4 months ago and the seller said he would send me the invoice from his email for warranty.

I reminded him that he still hasnt sent it and was told that he was waiting for KK to send him a copy. If I dont manage to get this invoice copy whats my grounds for warranty should I need it?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

You have the current model which is the one with all the chimes and pause and mark time then you will be OK.

 

[Truman42]

You have the current model which is the one with all the chimes and pause and mark time then you will be OK.

Are these a decent model?

Also can you please clarify that the 5 litre boil off per hour is that the 50 litre or the 40 litre? Mines a 40 litre.

 

[goatchop41]

Are these a decent model?

Also can you please clarify that the 5 litre boil off per hour is that the 50 litre or the 40 litre? Mines a 40 litre.

Don't worry about other people's boil off rate mate. Work out what yours is as I mentioned earlier, then use that for the software. Other people have different environments and usage methods, so their results aren't really useful to you

 

[Truman42]

Don't worry about other people's boil off rate mate. Work out what yours is as I mentioned earlier, then use that for the software. Other people have different environments and usage methods, so their results aren't really useful to you

I was looking for ball park to set beer smith up, but will use 4 litres and see how it goes.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Are these a decent model?

Also can you please clarify that the 5 litre boil off per hour is that the 50 litre or the 40 litre? Mines a 40 litre.

They are a better model, depending on what you are looking for, recipe memory, hop addition reminder something like 9 steps which you don't really need with the modified malts of today, for me the best thing is the marking time at the end of the mash. I seem to always get to the end of the mash when my wife will ask me to do something, and it is always urgent. With the latest model which you have, at the end of mash it will wait until you are ready to proceed with the boil, the old model just ploughs straight into the boil ready or not.
You live close by to me so your boil off should be the same, no atmospheric differences, same diameter kettle, you have the insulating jacket so pretty much the same as mine. Doesn't make any difference the amount being boiled whether is 10 or 30 litres You could always check it yourself put 10 litres into the kettle and boil for 1 hour, and don't forget to make an accurate measuring stick.
I have both the forty and the fifty they both boil off at the same rate.

 

[Truman42]

They are a better model, depending on what you are looking for, recipe memory, hop addition reminder something like 9 steps which you don't really need with the modified malts of today, for me the best thing is the marking time at the end of the mash. I seem to always get to the end of the mash when my wife will ask me to do something, and it is always urgent. With the latest model which you have, at the end of mash it will wait until you are ready to proceed with the boil, the old model just ploughs straight into the boil ready or not.
You live close by to me so your boil off should be the same, no atmospheric differences, same diameter kettle, you have the insulating jacket so pretty much the same as mine. Doesn't make any difference the amount being boiled whether is 10 or 30 litres You could always check it yourself put 10 litres into the kettle and boil for 1 hour, and don't forget to make an accurate measuring stick.
I have both the forty and the fifty they both boil off at the same rate.

I was going to ask how can I tell that this is in fact the latest model. But yes it has the features you mention and Ive just spent the last 30 minutes programming in a recipe for my brew day tomorrow. I did up a table using an online volume calculator but I didnt take into account the area taken up by the Stainless T and helix coil so will be out a bit. Im using a steel ruler but will need to make up a measuring stick at some stage.

What power level are you using for mash, sparge and boil? Ive seen so many different numbers in this thread? Can you set step 1 for 1 minute and 2400Watts so it reaches mash temp quicker, then alarm goes off and you dough in, it runs for 1 minute then goes to step 2 which is 60 mins at say 1400-1800 watts?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Something that hasn't been mentioned is the calibration of the temperature, best to check that before a brew. If you have a good thermometer put a few litres of water in set a temp of around 60-65 and place the thermometer near the probe and check they are the same reading and adjust if they aren't.
I have been dropping my mash wattage to try and eliminate the scorching I was down to 1700 last time I used the 40 litre, the boil wattage I have on 2000.

 

[Truman42]

Something that hasn't been mentioned is the calibration of the temperature, best to check that before a brew. If you have a good thermometer put a few litres of water in set a temp of around 60-65 and place the thermometer near the probe and check they are the same reading and adjust if they aren't.
I have been dropping my mash wattage to try and eliminate the scorching I was down to 1700 last time I used the 40 litre, the boil wattage I have on 2000.

I started my maiden brew today and I forgot to calibrate but Im going to assume the previous owner had done this.

I started with 20 litres but the wort level was below the first collar so had to add 3 litres to get it above so the top filter would sit on the grain properly.

I set my mill gap at 1mm and ended up getting a stuck mash within a few minutes. So had to lift the malt pipe, stir in some rice hulls and start again. Been going ok now, wort level has stayed level with the top filter handles for 45 mins now.

Using my old BIAB urn for my sparge water. Do you guys just pour a litre or so over the top, let it trickle through then repeat?

 

[wide eyed and legless]

You will get used to it as you go along, I don't bother with the top screen the grain is as good a filter.

 

[Truman42]

You will get used to it as you go along, I don't bother with the top screen the grain is as good a filter.

Do the elements cut in and out during the boil? It seems like they are, is this normal?

 

[Truman42]

Found this on Facebook. I’m surprised he hasn’t sold it yet.
View attachment 115340

So was I when I saw it last weekend. Picked it up on Monday for $300 and used it today. Other than a stuck sparge which I fixed with rice hulls it was a successful brew.

 

[goatchop41]

Do the elements cut in and out during the boil? It seems like they are, is this normal?

Yes. They will cut in and out more if you have it on a lower wattage - it's just the duty cycle, that's how they work when you run it at a lower wattage than the maximum. Eg. if you run it at half power then it will be on half of the time and off half of the time

 

[wide eyed and legless]

Glad it went well before long you will be tweaking and improving the way it works, I wouldnt be worrying about warranties they aŕe a reliable unit the relay which you heard switching on and off is the thermostat relay, these are seeming to be superior to the competitors relays, just look after the unit and you will be brewing on it for years.

 

[devoutharpist]

I've more or less dialled in my 50L now, been hitting my targets pretty much spot on.

So now i reckon i am gonna try and tackle a NEIPA again. The style that caused me a bunch of headaches last time i brewed one (BG - before Guten) with clogged fermenter taps, etc due to the sheer volume of hops.

My main Guten related question is what have people been doing for whirlpool additions/hop stands etc? Looks like i'm going to have about 170g going in after the boil.

Currently while boiling i use the hop spider, then cool using the coil and use the pump to get it into the fermenter. I imagine that doing a hop stand using the spider may not be the best utilisation of the hops and perhaps it would be better to let them roam around the kettle instead? But then i leave myself open to getting all manner of hops into the fermenter and maybe stuck on the coil. Plus then i can't use the pump to transfer and have to use the tap.

Soooo, experiences and techniques please?

 

[Ballaratguy]

So was I when I saw it last weekend. Picked it up on Monday for $300 and used it today. Other than a stuck sparge which I fixed with rice hulls it was a successful brew.

After I pour the grain in I just give them a really good going over with a plastic paddle in the battery drill to break up any grain balls

 

[Truman42]

After I pour the grain in I just give them a really good going over with a plastic paddle in the battery drill to break up any grain balls

I use a paint stirrer on my cordless drill. That wasnt the issue though. It was trying to recirculate which caused the stuck mash.

 

[wide eyed and legless]

I've more or less dialled in my 50L now, been hitting my targets pretty much spot on.

So now i reckon i am gonna try and tackle a NEIPA again. The style that caused me a bunch of headaches last time i brewed one (BG - before Guten) with clogged fermenter taps, etc due to the sheer volume of hops.

My main Guten related question is what have people been doing for whirlpool additions/hop stands etc? Looks like i'm going to have about 170g going in after the boil.

Currently while boiling i use the hop spider, then cool using the coil and use the pump to get it into the fermenter. I imagine that doing a hop stand using the spider may not be the best utilisation of the hops and perhaps it would be better to let them roam around the kettle instead? But then i leave myself open to getting all manner of hops into the fermenter and maybe stuck on the coil. Plus then i can't use the pump to transfer and have to use the tap.

Soooo, experiences and techniques please?

If you are using Irish moss or the like there should be no problem, I am not using no chill anymore and all I do is throw in the flame out/whirlpool hops straight into the Guten, cool the wort, give a final stir and let it settle for 45 mins then gently empty. I have put a 8mm reducer into my pick up tube just so the flow is minimal, everything gets left behind. If I seem to have a litre or 2 of wort left in the kettle I pour it all into a jug, let the trub settle in that then pour off the remaining wort from the top.

 

[devoutharpist]

If you are using Irish moss or the like there should be no problem, I am not using no chill anymore and all I do is throw in the flame out/whirlpool hops straight into the Guten, cool the wort, give a final stir and let it settle for 45 mins then gently empty. I have put a 8mm reducer into my pick up tube just so the flow is minimal, everything gets left behind. If I seem to have a litre or 2 of wort left in the kettle I pour it all into a jug, let the trub settle in that then pour off the remaining wort from the top.

Thanks, i usually chuck a whirlfloc in there so i'll give that a go and see what happens. Do you pull the coil out before you let it settle, or leave that in there as well?

Might be worth getting a reducer, off the top of your head do you know the diameter of the stock tube?