Guide To Keg Forced Carbonation.

[NewtownClown]

The keg itself doesn't need to be cold just the beer....so yes sanitise that first and then transfer and carb.
Good to see Ross is still happy to guide people through this over the phone. I remember stuffing up my first force carb and he was straight on the phone. I over carbed it!!!
Cheers
Steve

You are correct in that the keg needn't be cold, but it sure helps keep the beer close to the temperature it is at already and reduces foaming

 

[rehabs_for_quitters]

you mentioned sometimes my beers have a funky taste, do you use the same CO2 bottle with all brews? I am going to assume you have one CO2 bottle and my guess is CO2 is fine and you have other issues in your process as if the CO2 was bad all kegs would suffer the same symptoms,

Can you decribe the funky taste?

 

[Liam_snorkel]

You are correct in that the keg needn't be cold, but it sure helps keep the beer close to the temperature it is at already and reduces foaming

foaming? my kegs have been rinsed with boiling water immediately prior to transferring (and are quite hot to the touch) and I don't get any foaming at all.

 

[roastinrich]

you mentioned sometimes my beers have a funky taste, do you use the same CO2 bottle with all brews? I am going to assume you have one CO2 bottle and my guess is CO2 is fine and you have other issues in your process as if the CO2 was bad all kegs would suffer the same symptoms,

Can you decribe the funky taste?

It's kind of a bandaid / medicine aroma. Yes I only have the one tank and lately i haven't been getting the funky smell , I thought cos I was priming the keg with a bit of dextrose, instead of force carbing. Still using co2 tank to push it through. Do you think it's more a sanitisation problem?

 

[manticle]

How chlorinated is your water?

Do you use bleach at all in your sanitation?

Band-aid/medicinal is commonly associated with chlorephenols which are caused by chlorine so more likely that than the co2.

However wild yeasts can also create medicinal flavours/smells so contamination is not impossible.

 

[roastinrich]

How chlorinated is your water?

Do you use bleach at all in your sanitation?

Band-aid/medicinal is commonly associated with chlorephenols which are caused by chlorine so more likely that than the co2.

However wild yeasts can also create medicinal flavours/smells so contamination is not impossible.

Not sure how to test chorine level manticle but the water used to top up is run through an underbench carbon filter (culligan). The sanitation process of kegs is PSR in hot water push through with steam pressure then a boiling water rinse then spray with phosphoric acid. Have since changed to starsan.

 

[NewtownClown]

foaming? my kegs have been rinsed with boiling water immediately prior to transferring (and are quite hot to the touch) and I don't get any foaming at all.

Then you must have very little to no co2 in suspension.
Pouring a beer into a hot glass will foam more than when pouring into a chilled glass

 

[431neb]

I'm breaking in a new font and I've had real trouble with foaming.

I have read everything there is on the forums about rogue taps and plutos, warm fonts , leaky seals, o-rings, beer out posts, temperature differentials, sanitizer residue plus the rest and was leaning heavily towards a perforated dip tube ( sounds painful!) but - I am pleased to report that my initial fears were well founded.

I am a retard. It was over carbonated.

It seems the success I have had in the past with my shake if for a bit at 400 kpa was a little unscientific.

**** I'm glad it's working now. I have been testing all afternoon!! / falls down.

 

[cliffybb]

I found that for me the whole shaking of the keg was an inconsistent science, and after talking to one of my customers who happens to be a member of AHB (snow) he told me to just hook it up to the gas at 275 - 300 (depending on how carbed you want your beer) and leave it for 24 hours.

Every one I have done so far has been perfectly carbonated, whereas before I was always over carbonating it.

I'm only new to home brewing and This is how I would like to carb my beer, when you say carb for 24hrs are you meaning the beer is already cold (4 degrees c or so) when you do this. By the way I have 23litre kegs. Should I maybe add a couple more hrs on for the extra litres.?

 

[catcher]

Thank you

 

[Tahoose]

Seeing as I am new to kegging I just wanted to input on this thread, as I'm pretty sure that this have me the idea for my setup.

In my keezer I have 2 regulators, reg 1 runs to a 4-way manifold which holds my main kegs at serving pressure (12 psi) the 2nd reg runs a 2-way manifold, with 1 gas disconnect and one liquid disconnect.

This allows me to run all 5 taps on my system, with optional pressures and when I have a new keg if I wish to carb it a little quicker. I increase the pressure on reg 2 and run it through the liquid disconnect and liquid out post on the keg, this enables me to run the gas down the dip tube and carbonate from the bottom-up.

I generally hit it with a little co2 and then burp the keg to remove oxygen, then attach for a day at 30psi.

 

[Proffs]

In my keezer I have 2 regulators, reg 1 runs to a 4-way manifold which holds my main kegs at serving pressure (12 psi) the 2nd reg runs a 2-way manifold, with 1 gas disconnect and one liquid disconnect.

Nice idea. I wish I had a little more foresight at times. And extra cash. Haha

 

[Tahoose]

Probably cost $120 for the dual reg adapter, reg and manifold.

I only wanted to build one keezer so I have gone for it all at once. Praying I don't need to throw any more money at it.

 

[beercus]

Help please.....

I think this maybe a stupid question.

Trying my hand at force carbing. Followed all the steps, but when I turn the tank off, the gauge does not move, it just stays on 44psi...
I don't get the bit (step 6) where the pressure drops. I have the standard keg king regulator...
Thanks
Beercus

 

[danestead]

Help please.....
I think this maybe a stupid question.
Trying my hand at force carbing. Followed all the steps, but when I turn the tank off, the gauge does not move, it just stays on 44psi...
I don't get the bit (step 6) where the pressure drops. I have the standard keg king regulator...
Thanks
Beercus

You are turning the bottle off at the blttle, not the regulator right? If so, not sure why the pressure isnt dropping.

 

[Tahoose]

Help please.....

I think this maybe a stupid question.

Trying my hand at force carbing. Followed all the steps, but when I turn the tank off, the gauge does not move, it just stays on 44psi...
I don't get the bit (step 6) where the pressure drops. I have the standard keg king regulator...
Thanks
Beercus

After you turn of the bottle there is a pressure valve to vent the excess pressure in the regulator, vent this and it will drop to '0'

 

[beercus]

You are turning the bottle off at the blttle, not the regulator right? If so, not sure why the pressure isnt dropping.

Yep off at the bottle

After you turn of the bottle there is a pressure valve to vent the excess pressure in the regulator, vent this and it will drop to '0'

Yes, Release the valve and it goes to 0,

I have a one valve in the line, could this be why I do not get a reading off the keg

 

[Tahoose]

As far as I know your not going to get a reading from the keg as such. But you are best to look up a kegging chart and see what psi/kpa you need to set your regulator to, in regards to desired volumes of CO2 and knowing the temp of your fridge is a good start also.

Then when you set your regulator it will maintain that pressure.

 

[Kingy]

I take it you are force carbing as in rocking the keg? If you are :
I just turn the pressure off at the regulator then rock the keg untill the pressure steadys around 120-150kpa. (If it's lower than that It needs more pressure and more rocking) leave for about 15mins then vent the pressure at the keg. Set to serving pressure (I use 65-70kpa (ales) it's carbed but still takes a day or 3 to reach equilibrium.

 

[Pirate323i]

Hi all, this was asked by someone earlier, but no response...
I would like to carb my keg at "basement temp" currently about 15*C. I am not in any hurry, can I just set to serving temp and leave for a few weeks? I will be serving through an ice box...