Phillip Island Brewer
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Thanks guys ill put a sleeping bag around it tonight when I get home. The missers will love that ey! Watching me tuck my beer into bed haha!!
Frequently Asked Questions For The New Brewer
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Hi all.
I'm pretty new to brewing so forgive me if the question is a bit silly. For those who bottle do you bulk prime straight from the fermenter or do you go to a cooling cube for a few days first? I am just thinking if I bulk prime straight from the fermentor that is one less vessel that could give my beer an infection. Any opinions? Thanks
I'm pretty new to brewing so forgive me if the question is a bit silly. For those who bottle do you bulk prime straight from the fermenter or do you go to a cooling cube for a few days first? I am just thinking if I bulk prime straight from the fermentor that is one less vessel that could give my beer an infection. Any opinions? Thanks
technobabble66
Meat Popsicle
Not sure exactly what you're referring to with the "cooling cube" but the bulk priming thing is pretty straight forward:
Put the correct weight of dex/sugar into the priming bucket (use a priming calculator).
Pour in a few 100mls of hot boiled water & stir to dissolve the sugar.
Using a hose, drain the fermenter into the priming bucket, leaving the trub, etc, behind. Be careful to not splash the beer to minimise oxidising it.
Stir gently to ensure all dex/sugar is mixed in.
Then gradually fill the bottles from the bucket. No time delay required; straight from Fermenter Vessel to Priming Vessel to Bottle.
Obviously easier to use a bucket with a tap, so a large enough cube with an already attached tap could also work.
Technically you can mix your dex/sugar solution straight into the Fermenter, stir carefully, then fill the bottles from there. However i'd suggest you'll stir up too much crud doing it like this; though you'd use one less vessel so less risk of infection, blah, blah.
Are you referring to secondary fermentation, re: using the cooling cube for a few days? If so, depending on what sort of beer you're doing, i wouldn't bother.
Hope that helps.
Put the correct weight of dex/sugar into the priming bucket (use a priming calculator).
Pour in a few 100mls of hot boiled water & stir to dissolve the sugar.
Using a hose, drain the fermenter into the priming bucket, leaving the trub, etc, behind. Be careful to not splash the beer to minimise oxidising it.
Stir gently to ensure all dex/sugar is mixed in.
Then gradually fill the bottles from the bucket. No time delay required; straight from Fermenter Vessel to Priming Vessel to Bottle.
Obviously easier to use a bucket with a tap, so a large enough cube with an already attached tap could also work.
Technically you can mix your dex/sugar solution straight into the Fermenter, stir carefully, then fill the bottles from there. However i'd suggest you'll stir up too much crud doing it like this; though you'd use one less vessel so less risk of infection, blah, blah.
Are you referring to secondary fermentation, re: using the cooling cube for a few days? If so, depending on what sort of beer you're doing, i wouldn't bother.
Hope that helps.
This may be covered in here but I've read the thread and don't remember seeing it when i was first starting off. I've just done a batch of coopers dark, and i ran out of dextrose when filling the fermenter so I'm about 400grms dex and 600grms castor sugar. I've got this weird taste that I'm hoping someone can pick.
It's in most bottles, though there are a minor few where it isn't/i don't taste it. It's a very "tangy" and sharp taste, which is only there when i first pour the beer. I've tried waiting for the head to disappear and that reduces it but it's still there. Once i get a few mouthfuls in it disappears.
What's going on here? It's still drinkable but this sharp taste isn't very nice in the first few gulps.
It's in most bottles, though there are a minor few where it isn't/i don't taste it. It's a very "tangy" and sharp taste, which is only there when i first pour the beer. I've tried waiting for the head to disappear and that reduces it but it's still there. Once i get a few mouthfuls in it disappears.
What's going on here? It's still drinkable but this sharp taste isn't very nice in the first few gulps.
Could be from all that white sugar. Letting them age a bit longer might help but you really want to get away from the sugar. It tends to make beer thin and watery if used in large amounts and can leave the sharpness you describe. When i was doing the kits i found using all malt extract( instead of dex or sugar ) and steeping some choc malt or special b improved the Coopers Dark kits a lot.Kale said:
Lover of Beer
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Hi,
I am new to brewing and just started my first brew on Friday (today is Sunday). I was wondering why my airlock wasn't releasing the gases and bubbling away (for lack of better wording). I read on hear that sometimes the lid doesn't seal properly so the gases might be escaping that way and as long as it's sealed and no nasties can get in then it was ok. However, I found out that I hadn't screwed my tap in as tight as I thought and it was leaking (ever so slowly). I have since tightened and the airlock is working as it should.
I am just worried now that the brew will be ruined because of the small leak. Will the brew still be ok or should I count my loses and start again??? Rookie error I know and one that I most certainly have learned from!!!
Any help would be awesome. Thanks everyone!!!
Ronnie
I am new to brewing and just started my first brew on Friday (today is Sunday). I was wondering why my airlock wasn't releasing the gases and bubbling away (for lack of better wording). I read on hear that sometimes the lid doesn't seal properly so the gases might be escaping that way and as long as it's sealed and no nasties can get in then it was ok. However, I found out that I hadn't screwed my tap in as tight as I thought and it was leaking (ever so slowly). I have since tightened and the airlock is working as it should.
I am just worried now that the brew will be ruined because of the small leak. Will the brew still be ok or should I count my loses and start again??? Rookie error I know and one that I most certainly have learned from!!!
Any help would be awesome. Thanks everyone!!!
Ronnie
spartan2007
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Thanks for all the info guys ,newbie brewer
Hay guys, a newbie question for my first batch - coopers lager can with improver added.
Fermented really well for a few days, seems to have stopped now, been 4 days in fermenter. My question is that the sample I have tasted seems quite bitter, nice aromas and highly carbonated but quite bitter. Will this settle after bottling etc or have I blown it some how? The fermenting temps were around 26-27 deg. for the first couple of days. Thanks in advance
Fermented really well for a few days, seems to have stopped now, been 4 days in fermenter. My question is that the sample I have tasted seems quite bitter, nice aromas and highly carbonated but quite bitter. Will this settle after bottling etc or have I blown it some how? The fermenting temps were around 26-27 deg. for the first couple of days. Thanks in advance
Dont worry. A lot of what you are tasting is hop oils and other compounds that tend to get precipitated out with the yeast. So called green beer always tastes a bit rough but it should be quite different when it's clear and fizzy.
Fermentation temp was way high but would typically give flavours like nail polish, not necessarily bitter.
If you have enough freezer space consider freezing a few 1.25L bottles and wrap fermentor up with them under a beach towel or cheap doonah.
Fermentation temp was way high but would typically give flavours like nail polish, not necessarily bitter.
If you have enough freezer space consider freezing a few 1.25L bottles and wrap fermentor up with them under a beach towel or cheap doonah.
Devhay
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Bit of a beginner question here, I've got a kit and bits pale ale brew down at the moment and primary fermentation is done.. after tasting my FG samples I'm thinking it would benefit from a little dry hop
I'm thinking of transferring to secondary and cold crashing for 2-3 days with a dry hop, would this be long enough to make a noticeable difference?
I'm thinking of transferring to secondary and cold crashing for 2-3 days with a dry hop, would this be long enough to make a noticeable difference?
Lord Raja Goomba I
Prisoner of Sobriety
Yes. All research (IIRC brulosophy did some too) seems to indicate that 2-3 days dry hopping is ideal - all the aroma, whilst minimising grassiness that being left om hops can produce.
Dry hopping cold has a small impact on the effects of the hops. Some people prefer it, some don't.
Generally, shorter and or colder dry hopping will impart slight less aroma than doing it for longer or warmer. If you want maximum aroma, doing it at fermenting temps for at least a week is usually recommended. If you just want a touch of aroma, colder/shorter is fine.
It's quite popular to dry hop in a keg too, using a mesh tube or nylon bag with hops in it placed inside the keg. Bit hard to do this in bottles though obviously.
Generally, shorter and or colder dry hopping will impart slight less aroma than doing it for longer or warmer. If you want maximum aroma, doing it at fermenting temps for at least a week is usually recommended. If you just want a touch of aroma, colder/shorter is fine.
It's quite popular to dry hop in a keg too, using a mesh tube or nylon bag with hops in it placed inside the keg. Bit hard to do this in bottles though obviously.
Bandit24
Well-Known Member
G'day, hoping to get some answers and/or opinions on some beginner temp control & ferment questions I have.
I've been researching for the last couple of months, and these are some small things I still don't have definitive answers on (maybe there are no definitive answers to these, but I'd love to hear some informed opinions)
Thank you to everyone that contributes to this forum, such a great resource
1. Temp control set to 17c or 18c? - For general ale ferment temps. I've got an inkbird with a short probe stuck to the side of plastic fermenter and insulated with bubble wrap. What I read was that if you're aiming for 18c, set the temp at 17c as the inside of the fermenter/beer temp will be slightly warmer than outside.
2. Temp differential on the controller, I've currently got it set to 0.3c for both hot and cold and it seems to be working great that way, however can the differential be set as low as 0.1c ? Are there any potential problems I'm missing here for either 0.3c or 0.1c, as I've read most people set their differential a full 1.0c ? I'm using a fridge, heat belt and inkbird ITC-308.
2. Is there much difference between 2 weeks and 3 weeks in the fermenter for regular ale styles? I’ve had my first two batches in for almost 2 weeks and they are already tasting great, is there much benefit to an extra week? I am planning to dry hop 3-4 days also.
3. Is there much difference between say 3-4 days of cold crashing, compared to say a full week? What exact temp is best for cold crash?
4. What are the major differences between dry hopping methods - pellets thrown straight in vs hop bag etc? I've read that with using lots of hops if you just throw them in it can clog up the tap, but at what point (in grams, roughly) is it starting to get risky for that to happen?
Cheers
I've been researching for the last couple of months, and these are some small things I still don't have definitive answers on (maybe there are no definitive answers to these, but I'd love to hear some informed opinions)
Thank you to everyone that contributes to this forum, such a great resource
1. Temp control set to 17c or 18c? - For general ale ferment temps. I've got an inkbird with a short probe stuck to the side of plastic fermenter and insulated with bubble wrap. What I read was that if you're aiming for 18c, set the temp at 17c as the inside of the fermenter/beer temp will be slightly warmer than outside.
2. Temp differential on the controller, I've currently got it set to 0.3c for both hot and cold and it seems to be working great that way, however can the differential be set as low as 0.1c ? Are there any potential problems I'm missing here for either 0.3c or 0.1c, as I've read most people set their differential a full 1.0c ? I'm using a fridge, heat belt and inkbird ITC-308.
2. Is there much difference between 2 weeks and 3 weeks in the fermenter for regular ale styles? I’ve had my first two batches in for almost 2 weeks and they are already tasting great, is there much benefit to an extra week? I am planning to dry hop 3-4 days also.
3. Is there much difference between say 3-4 days of cold crashing, compared to say a full week? What exact temp is best for cold crash?
4. What are the major differences between dry hopping methods - pellets thrown straight in vs hop bag etc? I've read that with using lots of hops if you just throw them in it can clog up the tap, but at what point (in grams, roughly) is it starting to get risky for that to happen?
Cheers
2nd 2 - If the correct amount of (ale) yeast is pitched then the beer should generally have finished fermenting in 5 days or less so 2 weeks should be plenty. Although you should still taste it to see if diacetyl is present. If so leave it for longer.G'day, hoping to get some answers and/or opinions on some beginner temp control & ferment questions I have.
I've been researching for the last couple of months, and these are some small things I still don't have definitive answers on (maybe there are no definitive answers to these, but I'd love to hear some informed opinions)
Thank you to everyone that contributes to this forum, such a great resource
1. Temp control set to 17c or 18c? - For general ale ferment temps. I've got an inkbird with a short probe stuck to the side of plastic fermenter and insulated with bubble wrap. What I read was that if you're aiming for 18c, set the temp at 17c as the inside of the fermenter/beer temp will be slightly warmer than outside.
2. Temp differential on the controller, I've currently got it set to 0.3c for both hot and cold and it seems to be working great that way, however can the differential be set as low as 0.1c ? Are there any potential problems I'm missing here for either 0.3c or 0.1c, as I've read most people set their differential a full 1.0c ? I'm using a fridge, heat belt and inkbird ITC-308.
2. Is there much difference between 2 weeks and 3 weeks in the fermenter for regular ale styles? I’ve had my first two batches in for almost 2 weeks and they are already tasting great, is there much benefit to an extra week? I am planning to dry hop 3-4 days also.
3. Is there much difference between say 3-4 days of cold crashing, compared to say a full week? What exact temp is best for cold crash?
4. What are the major differences between dry hopping methods - pellets thrown straight in vs hop bag etc? I've read that with using lots of hops if you just throw them in it can clog up the tap, but at what point (in grams, roughly) is it starting to get risky for that to happen?
Cheers
3 - 3 days, a week , wont make much difference. Crash as close to 0 as possible. You can go lower, as alcohol has a lower freezing point but 0 is a safe bet without the risk of freezing.
4 - Allow your hops to swim free, unless your using a ****-ton, then a bag is the go ( or if you want to reuse the yeast). The amount you can use without a bag before they cause a blocking problem, depends on how much space there is below your tap.
laxation
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1. Anyone else can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm fairly sure 1 degree at these temperatures isn't going to make THAT much of a difference. Either is fine.
2. I think this is mainly for cooling, so your fridge doesn't shut on and off rapidly. That's why I do it, anyway. I set my heat at 0.3 I think, with cooling at 1.
3. Once it has finished fermenting, that's enough. For some reason a few days in a primary and then 2-3 weeks in a secondary is huge in the US, but not so much, if at all in Australia. I find it strange... but they also hate fermenters with taps...
4. I'm far from an expert at this, but 2-3 of days at 1 degree has been good for me. I'm just making apas/ipas, so I'm not looking for crystal clear lagers.
5. You might get more out of your hops if they aren't in anything, but as long as they aren't too restricted (i.e. really small bag) the bag is fine.
2. I think this is mainly for cooling, so your fridge doesn't shut on and off rapidly. That's why I do it, anyway. I set my heat at 0.3 I think, with cooling at 1.
3. Once it has finished fermenting, that's enough. For some reason a few days in a primary and then 2-3 weeks in a secondary is huge in the US, but not so much, if at all in Australia. I find it strange... but they also hate fermenters with taps...
4. I'm far from an expert at this, but 2-3 of days at 1 degree has been good for me. I'm just making apas/ipas, so I'm not looking for crystal clear lagers.
5. You might get more out of your hops if they aren't in anything, but as long as they aren't too restricted (i.e. really small bag) the bag is fine.
