Filtering Beer

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Guysmiley54

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Hello,

I am seriously considering buying a 1 micron filter to get clearer beer. Now I know there is a lot of debate whether this is a worthy goal or if filtering is even the best technique to do this, I have considered many differing opinions and I"m still keen :p

I do have some reservations though...

I have read that filtering through a 1 micron filter will leave enough yeast that it's still practical to bottle carbonate the beer. Does this affect bottle conditioning/maturation? I have always thought that residual yeast is very helpful for improving bottle conditioned beer during maturation, does minimising the residual yeast slow or hinder this process?
 
Hello,

I am seriously considering buying a 1 micron filter to get clearer beer. Now I know there is a lot of debate whether this is a worthy goal or if filtering is even the best technique to do this, I have considered many differing opinions and I"m still keen :p

I do have some reservations though...

I have read that filtering through a 1 micron filter will leave enough yeast that it's still practical to bottle carbonate the beer. Does this affect bottle conditioning/maturation? I have always thought that residual yeast is very helpful for improving bottle conditioned beer during maturation, does minimising the residual yeast slow or hinder this process?

i would be lost without my filter system.
not too sure if bottling is still possible with filter use, i have heard it still works but much better with kegs.
heres a link to a cheap filter
, i might buy a spare one :)
 
I have one of those cheap filters from the same supplier. Does the job.... but there is a technique so you dont get lots of air in the system (I invert the unit so air goes to the top ... which was the bottom). They do work better keg to keg under very low pressure, but being a tight arse I do gravity so as not to waste CO2. Anyway I wouldnt be without mine. Theres lots of advice on the forum regarding best techniques. The only thing I would say is that most people who take the trouble to filter are wanting clear beer fast..... and think it will address the chill haze. The reality is I find it works best if you still crash chilled for a number of days and use gelatin and polyclar to drop yeast and address the chill haze. So it is still worth taking the extra time and patience to get the best out of the filter..... otherwise you will end up with a clogged filter halfway through the process and complain that the beer is hazy despite all the trouble you have gone to.
Eddy
 
Sounds like good advice to me!

I'm still curious if anyone has any experience in regards to maturation. Does the beer take longer to "ripen" with less yeast in the bottle? Do the yeast multiply in order to consume priming sugars? Would the last hypothetical question mean that all the filtering would be a waste of time?

Cheers B)
 
Sounds like good advice to me!

I'm still curious if anyone has any experience in regards to maturation. Does the beer take longer to "ripen" with less yeast in the bottle? Do the yeast multiply in order to consume priming sugars? Would the last hypothetical question mean that all the filtering would be a waste of time?

Cheers B)

Minimal second hand experience is all I have - sorry.

But yes - things that rely on yeast do take longer in a beer that has filtered out almost all of the yeast. Maturation should be too much of an issue, because carbonation will take longer too. About twice as long I seem to recall, so you have extra time. If you keg and you are able to carbonate as fast as you want, then you'll just have to make sure your beer is matured to a level you like before you filter it. Filtered beers still "improve" with a little lagering/maturation, so its not like they are fixed for all time after they pass the filter - but whether thats straight chemical changes or the slow action of very small amounts of yeast I dont know.

Lets put it this way - if you have a major diacetyl or acetaldehyde flaw... there isn't going to be enough yeast left to deal with that in any reasonable timeframe, but our beer will still smooth out and come together a bit in the first month or so anyway.

TB
 
Minimal second hand experience is all I have - sorry.

But yes - things that rely on yeast do take longer in a beer that has filtered out almost all of the yeast. Maturation should be too much of an issue, because carbonation will take longer too. About twice as long I seem to recall, so you have extra time. If you keg and you are able to carbonate as fast as you want, then you'll just have to make sure your beer is matured to a level you like before you filter it. Filtered beers still "improve" with a little lagering/maturation, so its not like they are fixed for all time after they pass the filter - but whether thats straight chemical changes or the slow action of very small amounts of yeast I dont know.

Lets put it this way - if you have a major diacetyl or acetaldehyde flaw... there isn't going to be enough yeast left to deal with that in any reasonable timeframe, but our beer will still smooth out and come together a bit in the first month or so anyway.

TB

Thanks for the feedback Thirsty :)

You know, a lot of what has been said sounds like what I figured would have been common sense. To be honest... the types of beer that I would like to improve clarity in would not particularly suffer from any of the drawbacks to using a filter (except for a longer bottle carbonation period).

Think I might have to give it a go for myself.

Cheers
 
Problem with that one is that there is no bracket, no connections and no filter. Yet after delivery it is still $40.

Don't see that as much of a bargain at all really.

You could normally expect to pay $60 to $80 for the complete setup.
A 1 micron filter absolute is worth that alone. Let alone qd's, john guests, tubing, housing, etc

matt
 
I may be able to hook you guys up with a filter with a 1 micron cartridge and jg fittings for around the $100 mark posted.
 
I paid $80 for the filter and 1 micron cartridge with dodgy fittings on it from my LHBS. I cost me another $20 in KG fittings, so a total of $100.

The exact same setup that I bought for $80 can be purchased for $50 from this months major sponsor (it apears on every page). They are also selling replacement filters for less than $20.

If somebody had told me I could get the results I am getting for the $100 I paid I would have done it years ago. That being said if I was told I could buy what I just did for $50 instead of $100 then I could have my beer and drink it too.

Brewjohno.
 
I paid $80 for the filter and 1 micron cartridge with dodgy fittings on it from my LHBS. I cost me another $20 in KG fittings, so a total of $100.

The exact same setup that I bought for $80 can be purchased for $50 from this months major sponsor (it apears on every page). They are also selling replacement filters for less than $20.

If somebody had told me I could get the results I am getting for the $100 I paid I would have done it years ago. That being said if I was told I could buy what I just did for $50 instead of $100 then I could have my beer and drink it too.

Brewjohno.

+1

Although they have no stock until Boxing Day... Must be patient!

(BTW I am very impatient, that's one of the reasons I brew beer not wine :p )
 
Hey Brewjohno, did you completely replace the barb fittings or did you just add fittings to it? Which JG fittings did you need? Also, do you have any leakage at all with that filter?

Cheers,
Florian
 
I think, that that is not the filter set-up that i would buy. Fittings less than optimal, no details about what the cartridge is made of, and the cage thing around the filter means that you can't properly access the surface of the filter to either clean it or see if it has been properly cleaned.

I have been using the same "expensive" filter for nearly 2 years... Prior to that i had thrown away 3 less expensive filters in the orevious 18 months that were troublesome to filter with, and which tore under cleaning. NOT the filters from the afore mentioned sponsor i must add, they might be perfectly good, but no matter what their quaility, i wouldn't have one because of the cage.
 
Hey Brewjohno, did you completely replace the barb fittings or did you just add fittings to it? Which JG fittings did you need? Also, do you have any leakage at all with that filter?

Cheers,
Florian

I got rid of the barbs completely and changed them over.

2 x Brass Reducing Bush 1/2" for $3.81ea
2 x John Guest Straight Adapter 8mm for $6.37ea

There is a link to some pictures earlier here.

The only leaking that I had was when I first put the new reducer and pushfit on. I thought I could get away without any thread tape but I was wrong.

Since putting on the thread tape I have had no leaks at all.

I also invert the filters to assist the process as well.

Brewjohno.
 
I think, that that is not the filter set-up that i would buy. Fittings less than optimal, no details about what the cartridge is made of, and the cage thing around the filter means that you can't properly access the surface of the filter to either clean it or see if it has been properly cleaned.

I have been using the same "expensive" filter for nearly 2 years... Prior to that i had thrown away 3 less expensive filters in the orevious 18 months that were troublesome to filter with, and which tore under cleaning. NOT the filters from the afore mentioned sponsor i must add, they might be perfectly good, but no matter what their quaility, i wouldn't have one because of the cage.

The old saying Thirsty "You get what you pay for"!! I would rather spend the extra cash and get something thats quality.
 
I agree, I really don't like the idea of that plastic cage around the filter. Another member on here says that he regularly has to soak the filter up to 4 times in a row to get all the gunk out, and even then I wouldn't be sure as you can't really see inside. Had a few conversations about different models of cheaper filters and they always go like "yes, it works quite well, but..."
The fact that I have not heard one single bad word about the expensive filter says it all and is my decision maker.
 
I agree, I really don't like the idea of that plastic cage around the filter. Another member on here says that he regularly has to soak the filter up to 4 times in a row to get all the gunk out, and even then I wouldn't be sure as you can't really see inside. Had a few conversations about different models of cheaper filters and they always go like "yes, it works quite well, but..."
The fact that I have not heard one single bad word about the expensive filter says it all and is my decision maker.

+1 for "expensive" filter... diamond bright every time and never had a leak... IMO when it works hassle free every time... it no longer is regarded as expensive.

Here's a link to where i got mine
 
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