Ever had a beer you thought was infected but turned out great?

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Yep, just having the wheat beer now and I'm 90% certain that's what's happened here. I'm amazed that just trace amounts I guess stuck to the sides of the fermenter can actually make it through to strike again and be so strongly felt (looked clean. Rinsed and sanitized with Star San. Did not soak or scrub though..)

If anyone's wondering, belgian style APA does NOT mix. It's a tipper. Just can't stomach this one

I'm pretty strict with cleaning and sanitising and haven't had a (noticeably) infected brew for about 30 years (I kid you not)

I can't think of any way it could have happened.

Mine wasn't so bad that I couldn't drink the keg dry.

WJ
 
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Hot caustic certainly isn’t overkill and arguably simpler and faster than the fill to the brim and soak overnight or till needed method.

What Matplat forgot to mention is you only need to heat 2-3L of water with a couple desert spoons of caustic and roll it in the fermenter for about a minute or less,
Well, I suppose lagering in the bottle is as good as fermenter? Can't see why not. I'm interested in reusing the yeast, never done it before. How exactly do I go about this?

I'm making another lager the very next day!
Regarding re- using yeast: i time my brews so that i am pitching yeast for a new brew at the same time i am kegging the previous brew. When the new brew is at pitching temp i boil a stainless steel camp mug for 15 minutes. Then i keg the older beer and scoop most of the yeast cake into the new beer. Then hit it with oxygen for a couple of minutes and seal her up. Pretty easy. Otherwise you can collect the yeast in a sterilized container, store in fridge and pitch when ready. Saves money and gives fast clean fermentation
 
Regarding re- using yeast: i time my brews so that i am pitching yeast for a new brew at the same time i am kegging the previous brew. When the new brew is at pitching temp i boil a stainless steel camp mug for 15 minutes. Then i keg the older beer and scoop most of the yeast cake into the new beer. Then hit it with oxygen for a couple of minutes and seal her up. Pretty easy. Otherwise you can collect the yeast in a sterilized container, store in fridge and pitch when ready. Saves money and gives fast clean fermentation

Thanks man.

I'm wondering, my brews usually have some hop matter in the cake aswell, is this a no-no?
 
Question: Can't you simply use boiling water to sanitize? Surely this will kill any bacteria hiding in equipment, thus preventing contamination. Right?

I'm just doing some reading about a few people saying you should throw away old plastic brewing gear vs those who say just clean it well. Sone say 'biofilm' hides bacteria which cleaners can't penetrate. Surely boiling water will just kill them underneath
 
I think just a short contact time of boiling water should be ok. After all, no-chill guys do it all the time into the same rated plastics
 
You stuck the beers or fermenters on the bricks? Sorry man I'm not sure wich one you mean. If it's the beer you should stick one in the fridge and try. Though it would be off by now anyhow. But still, always good to learn first hand

Both....fermenters with beer in, whollus bollus

The beer is covered in mould, and aside from the mould issues they will be completely oxidised and lightstruck

Curious and a little interested, but...

I’ll do something with them, one day
 
Luckily I did scrub this one with the percarbobate. I wanted to be thoroug with it because it's so delicate. 3 days in and it smells and tastes good. Fingers crossed..

Funny thing is, I've been brewing for 20 years now! So not a beginner by any stretch. AG only 18 months or so though

Forgive me for having to do a double take earlier as I thought the post about cleaning was a troll post. If you want to maximise chances or making good beer you have to be a cleaner first, brewer second. Most of my time spent making beer is on cleaning and sanitising equipment.

Everyone has their own preferences and habits but the important thing is that anything exposed to the chilled wort or beer must be CLEAN. Remove all indications of foreign matter and sanitise everything that touches or is exposed to the beer (like a lid or airlock). Anything that's foreign can house something that can cause an infection so it's important to get rid of it. Note though that there will always be some unwanted living organism inside the vessel - it's floating in the air after all - so it's not possible to eliminate the risk completely, but the important thing is to minimise it as much as possible and let the yeast completely outgun anything that wants to compete with it.

My cleaning regime is -
  1. Rinse keg/fermenter thoroughly
  2. Boil a jug of water
  3. Add cap full of sodium percarbonate and freshly boiled water to vessel, shake to buggery
  4. Allow to soak for 30 mins, wipe off any remaining scum with a chux cloth
  5. Empty vessel and rinse/clean
  6. Add jug of boiled water to vessel, shake again
After you're done ensure it's thoroughly dry. Later, before adding beer, sanitise with a product like iodopher or StarSan. Anything that that is used to prepare the beer like stirring spoons, measuring cups, hydrometers etc. should be given a quick douse in sanitiser and left for 30 seconds to 2 mins before use.

And in response to the tread title no, I have never infected a beer and enjoyed the result (intentionally and otherwise).
 
Cheers guys. I've just become lazy after a good run of luck. I think if you get away with something for a while you tend to become blase'. I'll definitely be cleaning now. Just bought me some new cleaners too! So now I have Sodium Carbonate, Sodium Percarbonate, Sodium metabisulfite and bleach. Good to rotate them so I don't breed a superbug (do those things exist in home brew?)

Off the topic question here: I've just heard someone mention that Star San is a yeast nutrient if left in fermenters as no rinse. True, or?
 
Just bought some bleach and put a half cup in a 30l esky to soak bottles which now seems too much. I'm hoping they'll rinse out ok and not leave any residue, your hands get so slippery after touching the water and it's really hard to get off!
 
We did a Wee Heavy at one of the VIC swaps. 100L went into a whisky barrel that turned out to be...suspicious. Everyone else threw out their allotment, but I kept mine in the keg for a couple years to see what would happen.

Well, it's now the Wee Jobby, a 12% Flanders Red-like *** kicker of a beer, malty as **** with a balancing sour and some brett character.
 
FWIW, It takes 1 minute to kill all pathogens in water over 70 degrees. Though a 1 minute rolling boil is recommended (just in case I guess)
 
Just remembered too that the bad batch had a mishap at pitching. Not sure if this could possibly have anything to do with it but I sat the pack of dried yeast on top of the boiled water glass I used to rehydrate it.

It sat for 10 minutes or so before I realized it's too hot! So decided to pitch half tgat pack and a whole new pack too. Possible that the scaulded yeast was stressed and threw a bunch of off flavors? Maybe

I figured the more the merrier but I'm going to throw that half sachet now just in case
 
Why do you think your lager will take weeks? I've been turning around lagers 2 weeks from grain to brain:

I've been re-pitching a big yeast cake into the next brew - airlock activity and fully formed krausen the next morning after a ~6pm pitch @ ~10 degrees.
After 3 or 4 days the krausen starts to drop and I ramp up to 17 degrees for 3-5 days.
Then crash chill, keg with biofine clear and it's ready for serving 14 days after brew day.

Granted it gets better with time in the keg to lager, but only 10% better. This sort of process seems to be the commercial norm and becoming more and more so for home brewers.

Just had to update

I put a lager in FV 10/2, lagered at 13 degrees for 3 days, slowly ramping up to 19 for the following 3 days. I had a mate's 40th to attend that night so wanted to give him a few brews because he's always interested in my brewing, so I crashed it knowing I'd just made fg at 1.008 for exactly 24hrs at 0.5 degrees.

I made up "Tiber's premium pils 1st place 2013 recipe which is a basic Weyerman pils malt, clean yeast and lots of Hallertau Mittelfrueh hop additions fwiw. The recipe is easily found online though he uses Dabish lager yeast.

Bottling was nice and clear and I was pretty confident everything was in track by taste and aroma at this early point.

Fast forward just 6 days conditioning in hot weather (opposite of lagering, laughs) yesterday day 5 was a bit green still but today it's just edged iver the hill and is a showstopper! An incredible lager by anyone's books. I'd be happy to pasteurise these bad boys and lager now because I know from experience my beer dies between the 4th and 5th week in heat so have to be careful

So mate, spot on with the fast lager method. I'd have no problem throwing this into a comp and would be confident it has every chance of competing with traditional slow lagers. Probably the best beer I've made in 20 odd years brewing. Thanks for chiming in, Cheers!
 
I have a new pale just 3 days young but conditioning in the current heat which is now showing signs in taste, aroma and slick mouthfeel of diacetly or something similar that reminds me of the original thread here..

This time it wasn't present at bottling so really hoping it's just diacetly from early secondary.. God I hope so. I know it's far to early to even make any assumption but it scared me because I've never tasted this in any other beer bar that really bad one. I don't even know for sure if it is diacetly but the slickness leads me to believe it is

Funny thing is I did a hefe in the same fermenter 4 weeks prior but scrubbed it with percarbonate afterward, sat a pot of boiling water in it for half an hour and shook shed out of it, then star sanned and let sit for an hour so really couldn't be that yeast, could it..? I did note that fermentation took off quicker than usual though.. less than 1 day rather than 2 days using M44

Time will tell
 
In the summertime, even with the best sanitation practices, it's possible to pick up an infection from the air while the wort is cooling. I am a sanitation fanatic, and I use an iodophor treatment for my fermenter right before I put the wort into it after chilling it down to just above room temperature. One summer, I picked up a lactobacillus infection in an American lager. I could find nothing wrong with my sanitation and cleaning practices, so I did some research and found that old timers often did not brew in the summer time because their beer would often pick up an infection. I made the same beer later in the year without any problems.

You can buy a product called Lysozyme here in the United States at least that will prevent lactobacillus from getting a hold in your beer. I may get some this year to use for my summer time brewing.

Lactobacillus is probably not what happened to you though because it certainly did not leave a flavor of mushroom in my beer. That is, unless your mushroom flavor is sort of sour.

I've only had infections twice in beers in nearly 40 years of brewing, but I believe both were lactobacillus infections. Both were also in the summertime.
 
Just having another at just 1 week in the bottle and it's still there but I'm thinking it may actually be the galaxy hops with Maris Otter and crystal that just doesn't sit right. It's an extreme combination of malt and hops

The last tipper I started this thread with was all galaxy while this one has more Amarillo than galaxy. While I can barely detect amarillo I still get alot if galaxy and it's horrid at this point. Hope it ages out ok.. galaxy is really a hop used either very sparingly or with a very light malt bill to be star of the show

So I think that's what it is anyway. Will update as time rolls on
 

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