Dry Malt Amber Ale Recipe

[McCraggen]

A Hoi Hoi,

I have finally decided on a all dry malt recipe, was going to do a pilsner but lost enthausiasm.

Here is my idea for an Amber Ale;

1.5KG LDME
500g Crystal Malt crushed
Brew booster no 20
Wiliamette Hops 75g (bittering)
Amarillo 25G (Aroma)
21L of water

Was going to boil the 1.5KG dry malt with 50g of wiliamette for about 45min, then for 15 min boil the other 25g of wilaimette, then for the last 5-10min of the boil add the amarillo.

And of course probly for the last 10-15 of the boil add the grain, then let it all sit for maybe halfa.

Is this enough time for bittering etc?

My ideal completed product would be a good ballance of hops/malt with a nice aroma not too overwhelming, would this recipe fit the bill any suggestions would be great.

Cheers n Beers,

 

[Supra-Jim]

I wouldn't boil the grain, you'll get some tannins into your brew if you do that. Crystal should be steep around 67-70deg (30 mins).

You could always steep the grains in around 6-7 ltrs of water (as above), then boil this with your hop additions as described above. Then add your dried malts at the end to dissolve.

 

[buttersd70]

I'd get rid of the brewbooster #20. Know whats in it? I don't. But I'll bet its not all malt.

If you don't know what your ingredients are, then the final product is at the whim of the manufacturer of the pack.

 

[Supra-Jim]

Brewboosters are usually a mix of dex and corn syrup with some dried malt sprinkled in there.

Maybe replace it with a 1kg of LDME?

Cheers

SJ

 

[buttersd70]

My thoughts exactly.

As far as the bittering....what is the alpha of your hops, and what will the volume of the boil be? Need to know those to work out the bittering.

 

[Supra-Jim]

The 50g for 45mins might be a bit much if only planing on boiling a small amount of liquid. May cut it back to about 30gms.

Cheers

SJ

 

[McCraggen]

Sweet, cheers guys, planned on just steeping the grains after the boil to give a bit of colour and nuttiness.

As for the volume well i will probly go for 4-8 litres, depending how much water is lost in the boil.

 

[buttersd70]

Any liquor produced by grain will need to be boiled. Grain is full of bugs.

The alpha of hops fluctuates a fair bit, and lately I have seen willamette as low as 4.6 and as high as 7.1....which would make a big whack o difference to the hopping.

If you post up the alpha of the willamette and amarillo you plan to use, we can advise you much better on the bittering.....Otherwise it's all stab in the dark.

 

[bowie in space]

By replacing the brewbooster #20 with 1kg of LDME would that now mean the recipe would contain 2.5kg of LDME?

 

[buttersd70]

yes, 1.5+1 generally = 2.5

 

[McCraggen]

Does anyone think i should add perhaps 500g of dextrose to the 2kg of ldme?

 

[Supra-Jim]

Does anyone think i should add perhaps 500g of dextrose to the 2kg of ldme?

Just leave it all as LDME, the dextrose from memory converts to alcohol only, imparting no flavour or body to the beer.

With your steeped grains and LDME you should have plenty of fermentables to acheive a nice beer.

Cheers

SJ

 

[McCraggen]

Almost forgot, i haven't decided between safale s04 and safale s05, these are the only two at my disposal currently. Does anyone know the finer details of the two?

 

[QIK86]

No reason to add dextrose if you're doing your own hopping. Just use more malt instead.

 

[Supra-Jim]

Use the US-05 yeast for a nice clean crisp finish and you'll have a good american pale ale on your hands.

Cheers

SJ

 

[QIK86]

Almost forgot, i haven't decided between safale s04 and safale s05, these are the only two at my disposal currently. Does anyone know the finer details of the two?

US-05 = American Ale
S-04 = English Ale

I'd stick with US-05 considering the hops you're using. Should give a cleaner finish and allow the hop flavour and aroma to shine.

Edit: Jim beat me to it..

 

[buttersd70]

As quik said. The main differences between the 2 yeasts are that English will flavour the malt more, and has more bi-products formed by the yeast (which is not to be interpreted as a bad thing....some of the bi-products are positive flavours.) US yeasts are 'cleaner', less bi-products (which is not necesarrily a good thing in all styles), and favours the hops more.

So the choice depends on what it is being used in, as to if it will be appropriate. In this case, US05.

 

[McCraggen]

Well the brew is down and in my temp controlled fridge (a few warmer days ahead). I have just got to thinking, what sort of abv and FG should i have?

2.5kg ldme
500g crystal malt
21L

Im guessing around 5.5% and an FG of 1015 but if my guess is drastically off someone pull me up,

oh and p.s. completely forgot to check the SG...

 

[Pennywise]

yeah you're prolly lookin' at an FG around 1015 I reckon, dry malt tends to give a little higher SG. Your OG would have been somewhere around 1052

 

[buttersd70]

I get similar-ish numbers to HB79. If the yeast health was good, and had good aeration, and depending on the fermentability and fan levels of the ldm, it might go as low as 1012, but 1015 is probably more likely. But always confirm with stable fg readings...

assuming 1052/1015, thats 4.85%ABV prior to bottling. Bottle priming will add a bit more, 0.3-0.5% depending on carbonation level.