Double Mash

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I'd start with a much more "normal" l:g ratio. Think about your sparges. I'd be aiming for 1 sparge of the first grist, and 2 spurges of the second grist. So you need 4 separate quantities of water. Remember also, that although you will have a normal volume in your pot, you have used an abnormally large amount of grain... So you will have more trub than usual etc.

The way to do it, is to initially plan the brew as though you had a much bigger pot and you were going to do it all at once in there. So calculate water, losses, trub - as if it were all one big arsed batch, then split your volumes to give you what you want.

For instance: say you wanted to start your boil with 38L (you are planning to boil down to your final volume, even though that might take 2 hours)

So given say 10kg of grain, and losing 0.5 L/kg... You will need a total of 48L.

You'll have to mash with at least 22L for 10kg of grain - which leaves you with 26L to use as sparge. And I would be inclined to split that up into 10L to sparge the first grist once & 2 sparges of 8L each for the second grist.

Of course, because you will need a long boil anyway....you can always sparge with more than that and keep it aside to add to the boil as it progresses. Doing that will allow you to mash with a little more water too if you want.

The more your sparge, the more efficient it will be, but the longer the boil will need to be to get down to volume. Eventually you get to the ultimate level of pointlessness, where you could simply have done two separate 5kg mashes, boiled them down to half volume and combined the two worts in the fermenter.

So somewhere in between is a "reasonable" compromise between extract efficiency and time efficiency.. You'll have to decide where it is.

Cheers

TB

Edit - spelling and PS

PS - remember, you don't need to mash the first grist for very long. As long as it's properly hydrated and the starch has been given a chance to gelatinize and dissolve... You are good to stop. You aren't bringing anything to the boil, the enzymes are all still there, they will keep working for the duration of both mashes. If anything, better because you are adding a fresh batch of new enzymes part way through. 15, 20 minutes and get that thing out of there, get your new one in and start sparging the first one, it might be a little starchy... But when you add it back to the mash... The enzymes in there will fix it up. Let your second mash complete properly though. I would mash out the second one to help with efficiency (direct heat, so no need for infusion water) the first one doesn't need it because once again, you will be recombining it's run-off with an enzymatically active second mash anyway.
 
I just mashed 3kg of BB pale and 100g of caraaroma and got 15L of 1.051 (had to top back up to 15L and the boiling water brought it almost straight back up to strike).

No sparging, and there was still quite a bit of sugaz in the grain, but I had to get the bag empty - two bags FTW!

Dumped in another 3kg of malt at 70C strike and that's mashing now. It'll be interesting to see if I get to 1.100...

It's probably going to be some sort of strong lager (~1.065 SG) with buckets of Nelson and Cascade in it - but I'll have to work out volumes when I get the 15L SG. Will know about 4:30.
 
Watching this..

Yeah me too.

In fact, oddly enough this could end up being a way to get more out of stove top brews. I mean it certainly takes longer, which sucks, but if this was to be combined with what I read in an earlier thread about the mash not needing to be 60 minutes if you mash higher, maybe you could pump out a double mash in 60 minutes?
 
Yeah me too.

In fact, oddly enough this could end up being a way to get more out of stove top brews. I mean it certainly takes longer, which sucks, but if this was to be combined with what I read in an earlier thread about the mash not needing to be 60 minutes if you mash higher, maybe you could pump out a double mash in 60 minutes?

I dare say you could quite easily.

Though what I'm seeing is the second mash is not as masharific (technical term) as the first.

After sparging with 4L of water somewhere between 70 and 80C - which I saw was completely needed with all those sugaz - I've now got 16L of 1.087, which is 15L of 1.092. Still pretty respectable (and the bag is still running quite high, so I might get another point or two from it).

So something is happening in the second mash to reduce the efficiency a tad, or there's simply more sugaz left in the grain.

Still - getting 30L of 1.046 from a 19L pot? Heh heh heh. Funny stuff! Me like this technique.

Just calculating my hops now. I think I'll make 20L of 1.069 strong lager with 35 IBUs, half of them from < 20 minute additions.

So 12g of Nelson for 60, 8g for 20 - and 12g of NZ Cascade for 20 as well will get me 35 IBUs.

Gotta love making shit up as you go.
 
Will do. Hope this is cool with Shane - more the merrier I hope.

I think it'll suit my crappy technique nicely.

Be my guest Nick! After all that's why I started the topic, to see if anyone had actually done this! And now someone has.

I'm not as big on "making shit up as you go". So some indicative efficiency values (from the real process) will be great. Plus hopefully it tastes alright too!
 
Be my guest Nick! After all that's why I started the topic, to see if anyone had actually done this! And now someone has.

I'm not as big on "making shit up as you go". So some indicative efficiency values (from the real process) will be great. Plus hopefully it tastes alright too!

Cool. I think the guys have already done this on that other thread linked to up above.

I had to wait for some numbers on the hydrometer before I could work out any hop stuff and in that way I was brewing on the fly.

There will probably be some taste effects from the overgravity boil - but I suspect these could be seen as good, or bad depending on the style.

A 7% lager with Nelson and Cascade sounds ripper to me, but. And the "extra hour" is not really anything but waiting - there's only really 15 minutes of extra effort.

I'm sold. Thanks, Shane!
 
I would use the same amount of whirfloc, its based on your kettle volume not gravity right?

too late now though ;P
 
Hmmmmmmmm, thats a good question. Should the whirflock be calculated by volume of wort or grain used/trub?

Cheers

I assumed grain bill. I've hassled all the Geeks - and WHERE ARE THEY NOW I NEED THEM! :D
 
I've never adjusted my whirlfloc due to gravity. I would assume volume but I'm happy to be wrong.

Never read or heard anything that suggests whirlfoc amounts should be gravity dependent.

Geeks helped you in the past Nick. Look at your current stovetop method - worked out by geeks.
 
I've never adjusted my whirlfloc due to gravity. I would assume volume but I'm happy to be wrong.
Same her Manticle I have never adjusted due to high gravity but all my high gravity beers have been black so I have not had any issues with clarity. I do make sure I keep the ratio corect for volume though, no matter what style of beer.
 
No issues with clarity in the finished product either but you're still trying to leave hot break behind no?

The fact that whirlfoc is operating on removing proteins makes me think that sugar levels are less important than volume of wort. Someone who knows can hopefully steer us in one or another direction but most instructions suggest x tab per y litres regardless of wort gravity. Obviously we all know nstructions can be lacking.
 
No issues with clarity in the finished product either but you're still trying to leave hot break behind no?

The fact that whirlfoc is operating on removing proteins makes me think that sugar levels are less important than volume of wort. Someone who knows can hopefully steer us in one or another direction but most instructions suggest x tab per y litres regardless of wort gravity. Obviously we all know nstructions can be lacking.

The sugars and the protein are both extracted from the grain, logically as you extract more of one you would extract more of the other.

MHB
 
So what's the relationship between whirlfloc amounts and gravity? I know that adding too much whirlfloc can work against the effectiveness so if there's a linear relationship, it's worth knowing. Say an average 20 L final vol of 1050 is 1/2 tab, what's a 20 L 1100 barley wine need?
 
So what's the relationship between whirlfloc amounts and gravity? I know that adding too much whirlfloc can work against the effectiveness so if there's a linear relationship, it's worth knowing. Say an average 20 L final vol of 1050 is 1/2 tab, what's a 20 L 1100 barley wine need?

A healthy liver?
 

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