Direct Heating Mash Tun - Burning

[Dr Gonzo]

Tony,
Nice looking paddle.
What do you use to drive it?

 

[sqyre]

This idea won't change any burning/scorching of the mash though, because the idea is to continuously circulate the wort, and not the grain. The grain itself will still be sitting on the bottom of the mash tun, so it will still be scorching.

True...

but i was thinking along the lines of the mash tun having a false bottom suspending the grain above the direct heating surface with only the circulating wort coming in contact with the base.

The only issue i can think of is the tiny particles that pass through the false bottom and sit on the bottom of the tun. Perhaps a BIAB style bag could be used as a filter/liner to reduce this.



sqyre.. :blink:

 

[Screwtop]

Perhaps a BIAB style bag could be used as a filter/liner to reduce this.



sqyre.. :blink:

Might be onto something there Brucey, will try this as a first fix, Plan B: have a stainless dish made up to go on the burner under the tun, fill this with water to act as a bain maree. Will need to get one made out of SS sheet about 2mm thick, 400mm diam, side wall 120mm with base welded in leaving a 20mm collar below to contain the burner lames. Ie: the dish would be 98mm deep and the tun would sit in that. Have to find a fabricator.

Screwy

 

[sqyre]

If the bottom of your tun is flat, i would firstly try putting a piece of 3-4mm steel plate between the burner and the tun... this should act as a dampener to help disperse the heat evenly. if it makes even contact with the tun bottom it should transfer the heat and not act as heat shield..

bit like a pot on a barbie plate...

That would stop any "hot spots" from from occuring..although it will take a little longer to heat up untill the plate is hot then it should be business as usual..

if it doesnt work just slide the plate out...

worth a try... :huh:

i would use some mild steel plate, stainless may be more likely to act as a heat shield with its shiny surface. Just a thought..

Sqyre...

 

[mika]

Draggin it OT again, I've thought a mini external cylinder for HERMS operation would be a good thing. Something small allowing rapid control of the Heat Exchanger temperature, as Pumpy suggested with an electric element, Mashmate temp controller for easy control without going full P&ID loop control.
I haven't come across an element small enough with enough grunt.

 

[Screwtop]

If the bottom of your tun is flat, i would firstly try putting a piece of 3-4mm steel plate between the burner and the tun... this should act as a dampener to help disperse the heat evenly. if it makes even contact with the tun bottom it should transfer the heat and not act as heat shield..

bit like a pot on a barbie plate...

That would stop any "hot spots" from from occuring..although it will take a little longer to heat up untill the plate is hot then it should be business as usual..

if it doesnt work just slide the plate out...

worth a try... :huh:

i would use some mild steel plate, stainless may be more likely to act as a heat shield with its shiny surface. Just a thought..

Sqyre...

Nah Bruce,

Mash tun has a Keg Style bottom!

 

[ant]

Plan B: have a stainless dish made up to go on the burner under the tun, fill this with water to act as a bain maree. Will need to get one made out of SS sheet about 2mm thick, 400mm diam, side wall 120mm with base welded in leaving a 20mm collar below to contain the burner lames. Ie: the dish would be 98mm deep and the tun would sit in that. Have to find a fabricator.

Screwy

A 20L urn with a copper coil in it sounds cheaper in the long run - and easier for precise temp control? h34r:

 

[Tony M]

Tony,
Nice looking paddle.
What do you use to drive it?

A BBQ spit motor. Its a bit slow for my liking as I can hear the mash starting to simmer when it has been heating for a while. I am about to change this as the controller for our garage door got fried in a storm the other night so I am having to fork out for a retro fitted motor/controller combination. The upside of that being I will be left with a beaut little geared 24V motor. Not bad for $500.00!!!!

 

[Screwtop]

A 20L urn with a copper coil in it sounds cheaper in the long run - and easier for precise temp control? h34r:

Well the dish idea didn't work, scrounged a big SS tub from the tip shop and cut the bottom out, too much energy loss, too slow. Got the shites with the Immersion Heater and attacked it opening up the coils gently using a F/big screwdriver. Now it works a treat! the mash doesn't get lodged in the thing and burn.

Have a 45L urn, got it for a song as it was not working, shouted it a new simmerstat for $23, works well now. Think a HERMS might be the GO, off to the scrap yard for a copper coil from inside an old hot water system. Next a Pump!

ED: Splng

 

[rehnton]

talking scorching does anyone have a magical cure for cleaning burnt on wort from over the side style immersion element?
mine's rogered; was hoping to revive it sufficiently to use in the HLT
tried CLR, elbow grease, even soaked overnight in coke but cant get the inside or between coils clean

 

[Darren]

talking scorching does anyone have a magical cure for cleaning burnt on wort from over the side style immersion element?
mine's rogered; was hoping to revive it sufficiently to use in the HLT
tried CLR, elbow grease, even soaked overnight in coke but cant get the inside or between coils clean

Try hot napisan for a couple of hours.

cheers

Darren

 

[PostModern]

Try hot napisan for a couple of hours.

cheers

Darren

Failing that, try caustic. Nasty stuff, tho so be careful with use, handling, discarding and ingestion by pets, children, etc.

 

[Screwtop]

Haven't tried the hot Napisan but have tried everything else, mild Vinegar to Heavy Caustic. Phosphoric Acid works reasonably well and wont hurt the metal. Go to Bunnings and get a small copper wire brush, a bit like a toothbrush, that and elbow grease works. I spread the coils which seems to stop a lot of that happening the mash doesn't get stuck in between the coils.

 

[Batz]

Have a 45L urn, got it for a song as it was not working, shouted it a new simmerstat for $23, works well now. Think a HERMS might be the GO, off to the scrap yard for a copper coil from inside an old hot water system. Next a Pump!

ED: Splng

Mines a 20lt urn Screwy,but you can see how I did it.
I am really happy with the results,more so since I added a Mashmaster controller to it.




I don't have my system hard plumbed,I like the idea of removing the hoses for a good clean/sanitize.




Batz

 

[Darren]

I ahve always wanted to do that Batz, It raises temps ok?

I have the urn and copper but was sceptical it would work.

cheers

Darren

 

[Batz]

It takes a few minutes to rise in temperture Darren,10C would take 5 minutes or perhaps a bit more.
After a while you learn to factor that in,I wonder if I should had some more coils into the centre of the urn?
I may give it a go soon I have all the gear here I need.

Batz

 

[deckedoutdaz]

Don't let the missus hear i know even the slightest thing about home duties........for cleaning baked on wort and grains.....dip the element into vinegar then liberally cover in bi-carb, it will fizzle and froth, rub off after a couple of minutes with a plastic scourer, if its really baked on you might need to repeat, i believe its the same for cleaning an oven but don't try it or you'll have the job forever.....

 

[AndrewQLD]

It takes a few minutes to rise in temperture Darren,10C would take 5 minutes or perhaps a bit more.
After a while you learn to factor that in,I wonder if I should had some more coils into the centre of the urn?
I may give it a go soon I have all the gear here I need.

Batz

Batz,
I have been looking at going this way, I still have the S/S pot you gave me predrilled for a herms, how about we organise a weekend and you can show me how to build it :lol: . Got a price on 5 mtrs 3/8" copper pipe $53.00 just got to get my head around tooling it up. I've got a keg of heffe we could share as well .

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Screwtop]

Mines a 20lt urn Screwy,but you can see how I did it.
I am really happy with the results,more so since I added a Mashmaster controller to it.

View attachment 13944
I don't have my system hard plumbed,I like the idea of removing the hoses for a good clean/sanitize.

View attachment 13945
Batz

Yeah flexibility is what I want too, will use hoses and probably some brass snap on hose fittings, Bunnings sell one type that seals well, the others are crap. Since it's a big urn I was thinking of making a drop in coil like a chiller, do you think that would work Batz? Or would I need to have the lid on for efficiency. Using the mashmaster do you set the temp of the urn and then recirc to raise the temp to that of the urn (would be a bit lower depending on losses, I guess).

3/4 copper would give more surface area Andrew, was going to use 1/2 in from the scrap yard here.

 

[Batz]

Yeah flexibility is what I want too, will use hoses and probably some brass snap on hose fittings, Bunnings sell one type that seals well, the others are crap. Since it's a big urn I was thinking of making a drop in coil like a chiller, do you think that would work Batz? Or would I need to have the lid on for efficiency. Using the mashmaster do you set the temp of the urn and then recirc to raise the temp to that of the urn (would be a bit lower depending on losses, I guess).

3/4 copper would give more surface area Andrew, was going to use 1/2 in from the scrap yard here.

You could drill the lid I suppose,you need to keep the coil just off the element as well.
I'll go 1/2" tubing for ease of bending and finding fittings.

Andrew
Easy to finish off the project mate,you need a kettle element,few metres of 1/2" copper tube,rest of the gear I may have floating about.Lets get together for a beer and knock it up hey?



Batz