Crown urn top return

[thuperman]

I've been designing a recirculating BIAB upgrade to my 40L Crown urn based on many designs including Qld Kev and others.

Originally, I was planning on returning the wort near the bottom of the urn (whirlpool) and also through the lid, but I'm having second thoughts about changing the lid return for a side return near the top of the urn. Main reasons being:

- Can remove lid easier to check the recirc or just keep it off completely.
- Connecting a hose to the wall would be more stable than a lid that isn't tied down.
- There would be no loop in the hose (less hose and no kink potential).
- Most designs I've seen (non-Crown urn) include the top return in the wall.

I designed the top return (below) so that it would include a camlock fitting on the inside so the return arm could be removed to lift out grain / bag / malt pipe. However, I believe the diameter of the urn is ~337mm and a Big W pot is ~305mm. This only leaves me with 32mm for the camlock. A Google search of camlock dimensions from another supplier had them at 38mm - too big.

Does anyone on here have a similar setup? How do you do side return and also fit Big W pot or is it not really possible?

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Meddo]

I use a quick-connect pair rather than camlock for the same reason. The hole I put in the top of my malt pipe is obviously large enough for the female QC to fit through. I've actually got no idea why I bothered with the bulkhead at the top there, could have just gone straight from the male/male QC through the wall and into the female elbow on the outside.

Although effective the QCs are a bloody pain in the rectum - there's nothing quick about connecting/disconnecting them, especially when they've had 70+ degree wort circulating through them. They're two-handed also (at least mine are) unlike camlocks.



Edit: Re-reading your post I think I mis-understood your question. Will ponder further...

 

[Meddo]

Perhaps you could just use this bulkhead to keep the valve permanently attached to the urn as I have, and screw your male camlock in and out as required? It would only need to be hand-tight in the bulkhead, you might get a very minor leak but that won't really harm anything as it'll just drip back into the kettle, might need to clean the female threads when you clean everything else if you do get a leak. You could flick them an email to ask how far it protrudes, from memory it's probably about 25-ish mm.

https://cheekypeakbrewery.com.au/1-2-bspp-male-to-female-new-bulk-head-fitting

 

[thuperman]

You might just be on to something! I agree, hand tight is fine as long as there's a bulkhead keeping the wort in the kettle. In fact, there's probably not much need for the camlocks or QDs at all. I have been trying to avoid QDs based on bad reviews and the fact that most stores in Aus don't seem to stock them (because they get bad feedback).

 

[Meddo]

Yep you can just go a 1/2" BSP male to 1/2" hose barb, screw that into your bulkhead as required and push the hose over the barb and you'll be fine, don't need to clamp it. I did this for a while with a right-angle fitting, worked fine.

One thing I've learned with ball valves / camlocks etc. is it's bloody handy for drainage having your valves angled - I use a 45 deg male-female 1/2" BSP elbow on each bulkhead. This way all the fluid drains through the hose when disconnected at the other end (as long as the valve is open) - if the valves are horizontal you're left with a bit of perched muck which always manages to make a mess when the kettle is tipped or moved.

These were the cheapest that I found, comparable price to most other stainless 1/2" fittings:

http://www.downswater.com.au/index.php/products-services/our-products/fittings/stainless-steel/stainless-steel-elbow-45-mf-detail

Excuse the mess, WIP at the time...

 

[thuperman]

One thing I've learned with ball valves / camlocks etc. is it's bloody handy for drainage having your valves angled - I use a 45 deg male-female 1/2" BSP elbow on each bulkhead. This way all the fluid drains through the hose when disconnected at the other end (as long as the valve is open) - if the valves are horizontal you're left with a bit of perched muck which always manages to make a mess when the kettle is tipped or moved.

That's a really interesting tip (and not one that I've commonly seen in many setups). Cheers!

 

[thuperman]

Actually, do you think there's an advantage to using a 45 instead of just putting a 90 before the ball valve? I know a 90 means that there is still a horizontal part, but the bulk head (or threaded pipe will be hozontal anyway and a 90 won't add much to it..

 

[Meddo]

Only that my top return is directly above my lower whirlpool return so I didn't want the hose hanging down over the bottom tap, and it also means the lower two taps don't foul on the brew stand I'm using. Functionally and drainage-wise there's probably bugger-all difference, just depends what suits your own setup best.

 

[Meddo]

Anyway, I'm only one bloke - many many people are perfectly happy with horizontal taps...

 

[Kingy]

I'm all for recirculating, I won't go into it but.
Plenty of threads around,
it's a wonder Bribie hasn't chimed in here with his view on the subject.

 

[thuperman]

I've definitely read Bribie's opinion on BIAB recirc

 

[breakbeer]

How is your mash temp controlled?

 

[thuperman]

It will be done via a CraftbeerPi.

 

[ridge runner]

I used loc line over the side On lid used. But planning to go through the wall also, good thread.