Crankandstein Choices

[Jez]

6 weeks ago I ordered a 2A Crankandstein direct from Fred and paid him with my credit card using Paypal.

Cost me exactly AUS$200.17 including shipping and turned up 2 weeks later.

I'd be ordering direct from Fred if you're prepared to wait. The Aussie Dollar is still around $0.75, same as it was then, so it will cost $200 from Fred as opposed to $197 from TWOC.

Jez

 

[beer slayer]

Yes lads I tried to go through the guy in W.A sent an email all to no response. I sent one to Fred to explain the situation and he was more than glad to send me one direct counldnt help enough .I ended up going for the 2A. I gave it a crank for the first time this morning on the electric drill and it was awesome. I powered through the grain and gave a great crush. Im just about to mash an amber ale :beer:

My vote 2A :super:

 

[kirem]

Here are the pictures of the 3D with SS rollers and 1/2 inch shaft!

I have an electric motor for it from a circular saw, just need to reduce 4500rpm to approx 200.

I will get a stainless hopper made for it.

 

[beer slayer]

kirem

That is a nice mill could you please supply some pics when your set up. Id like to see the beast in action
:beer:

 

[Rex]

Here are the pictures of the 3D with SS rollers and 1/2 inch shaft!

[post="87217"][/post]​

Looks sweet... I am about to order a 3D myself... Just trying to work out the pros/cons of the 1/2" shaft v std 3/8" shaft???

 

[kirem]

I got it as its bigger!!!! :super:

Nah, I just found more sheaves etc for 1/2inch

Are you going the SS as well?

 

[Rex]

I just found more sheaves etc for 1/2inch

Are you going the SS as well?

[post="87561"][/post]​

Sheaves? Any issues using 1/2" with a drill to start with? Or is it too big?

SS seems like the go, will last forever.

 

[Justin]

Not if you have a drill with a 1/2" chuck.

Most small drills are 3/8", but you can get 1/2" ones cheap as well. I bought a 1/2" chucked drill from Bunnings for about $16 (its a XU1 brand-crap really but I didn't want to burn out a Makita). I nearly burnt it out milling my grain on the weekend. Had smoke coming from the windings :blink: They don't like to be run slow and have no torque at slow speeds. Up to you though, but your drill will burn out eventually if you mill at the proper speeds.

I don't rate drills much for running mills but it's up to you. I have a 12V windscreen wiper motor running mine and it works great. Except I broke my shonky coupling shaft on the weekend-hence the drill. My coupling shaft was just some copper and brass bits soldered together to couple the threaded wiper motor to the 3/8" shaft on the barley crusher. It has worked for 6 months before that. Funny thing was the other night I was looking at it saying how I should make a proper coupling. Now I have a good excuse to fix it properly now I know it works well.

Cheers. JD

 

[kirem]

That ius exactly why I went folr the mill I got and will drive it with the appropriate motor and coupling setup. I don't want brew day failures and I like to do things properly sometimes way over the top.

Without having an extensive knowledge of fitting and turning or similar trade, I would be surprised if I took my mill to a good trade they couldn't make a good copy for a reasonable price.

 

[tangent]

that's what i was thinking
let me know if you get a quote

 

[kirem]

I am lucky to have access to good trades and an extremely well equiped engineering building at work. I will see what I can organise.

I don't want mill in pieces for too long.

K

 

[recharge]

Bump

Has anyone used a ceiling fan motor and dimmer control to power their mill?

Just thinking.

:beer:

 

[yardy]

>>>
Qty: Desc. Price Ext.
1 CGM-2A $99.00
1 CGM-1/2DRV $20.00
Subtotal: $119.00
Shipping: $51
<<<

I was In Melbourne within a week or 2.

Luke

[post="84107"][/post]​

gday fellas,

this seems a pretty reasonable price, has anyone had any issues with this model that would make them want an upgrade ?

btw Lukes, is the above with SS rollers ?

cheers
yardy

 

[manaen]

I am just about to invest in a mill myself .. the TWOC now has pictures and prices of the crankenstein mills.

Can someone please explain the difference of the 2S, 2A and the 2D? is it just the roller size and adjustment method?

Is it worth spending the extra to get the 2A or 2D if all I make is 20L batches?

Hey Kirem, did you end up taking your mill to an engineer?

 

[kirem]

Yep, it is with the guys at work at the moment.

We are in the middle of vintage, so I am not hasseling them at all, although I have seen some work done it.

I have a couple of other projects on the go with them;

Converting a 50L sankey keg to a jacket cooled and thermowrapped conical.

and they are hard plumbing my pilot brewery with SS pipe.

When it is done and priced I will post details.

 

[beer slayer]

I am just about to invest in a mill myself .. the TWOC now has pictures and prices of the crankenstein mills.

Can someone please explain the difference of the 2S, 2A and the 2D? is it just the roller size and adjustment method?

Is it worth spending the extra to get the 2A or 2D if all I make is 20L batches?

Hey Kirem, did you end up taking your mill to an engineer?

[post="111101"][/post]​

manaen
I know people who have the 2s model and I have the 2A model. The 2A model as I understand it is the first model that is adjustable. I hook mine up to a electric drill and it powers through the grain no problem. Cost is the only concern that I can see. The CnS product is great and gives a great crush. Having your own mill is the way to go which ever you choose.

Cheers
BS

 

[bradmcm]

I am just about to invest in a mill myself .. the TWOC now has pictures and prices of the crankenstein mills.

Can someone please explain the difference of the 2S, 2A and the 2D? is it just the roller size and adjustment method?

Is it worth spending the extra to get the 2A or 2D if all I make is 20L batches?

Hey Kirem, did you end up taking your mill to an engineer?

[post="111101"][/post]​

2A
Both ends of the non-driven roller ride in bushings that are offset mounted in an adjustable knob. The knob is held in a fixed position by a set-screw that you can loosen to adjust the mill.

2D
Both ends of the non-driven roller ride in bushings that are offset mounted in an ALL-METAL detent style knob to provide the gap adjustment. The knob is held in a fixed position by a spring loaded ball screw that positively engages each of the detents in the knob.

2S
The idler roller bushings are offset drilled, which allows you to disassemble the mill, press the bushings out and rotate them to set the gap, then press them back in.


Although I rarely adjust the settings on my Barley Crusher, I have had to do it and I would rather not have to fully disassemble the mill. I'd go for the 2A or 2S.

Oh, http://www.crankandstein.com/
for more info

 

[Josh]

I have a 2A and am during a brewday right now. Once I found the best setting on my drill the crankandstein powered through the grain. Adjusting the 2A was hard at first. One of the adjusting knobs didn't want to move. Used my leatherman pliers and got it around to the desired setting.

 

[roach]

i have the 2s and used it straight out of the box, and not adjusted in the 20 months I have had it. Bang for buck 2s is great and produces a top crush. So it works for me, but if you want to be confident about be able to easily adjust the gap to suit your needs, I would go the 2a at the minimum.

But go with what you can afford. the 3 roller top of the range would be brilliant, but personally I reckon if you can stretch to it, go for the 2d with its easier adjusting mechanism. Oh and the 1/2" drive offers the versatility of easily motorising it down the track.

 

[yardy]

some good information fellas, cheers.