Corny keg beer out disconnect fittings

[Georgedgerton]

For ages now I have been having trouble getting the black beer-out fittings off Corny kegs after a session. I like to take them off after an O ring split during the night, and by the next morning there was a river of beer running through the garage. I have several kegs and even changed disconnects . lately its been almost impossible to get them off. The only common thing in the problem is most of my disconnect (which I have quite a few) were purchased at the same time. Is it possible I have got a suspect batch?

 

[Grok]

Are you putting a bit of lube on the Oring of the post before connecting?
Or maybe they're getting gummed up with old beer?

 

[golfandbrew]

Are they the stainless variety by chance?

 

[Georgedgerton]

Are you putting a bit of lube on the Oring of the post before connecting?
Or maybe they're getting gummed up with old beer?

No, we're talking about disconnects that have been on for a day

 

[Georgedgerton]

Are they the stainless variety by chance?

No, plastic variety. I had several generic varieties plus new old stock Corny connectors. I had also wondered if there was a minor differnce in O Ring size that was causing the grief

 

[raturay]

I have the same issue at times. I've lubed the post which hasn't helped. I had one disconnect where the ball bearings all fell out trying to get it off. I just put it down to the general lack of quality and quality control that's evident in so many things these days. But, perhaps I should pull one apart and have a good look at it.

 

[hotwaterpls]

Usually a little lube on the o-ring (keg and/or disconnect) makes a big difference (not necessarily every time you disconnect / every day, but periodically).

I often have a small amount of spillage when removing a disconnect, so that might be building up on the keg post causing the disconnect to be a little more 'sticky'. Cold temp might also contribute to the issue. I have some newer low profile disconnects and find them quite tough to get off sometimes, though a little twist while lifting seems to help release.

There is an o-ring inside the disconnect (not when you disassemble, but within the bit that goes onto the keg) so might be worth a look there. Could also just be time to replace keg o-rings? I imagine if there's a little nick or something it may catch and make it hard to remove the disconnect (may not be able to see visibly).

As with any troubleshooting, try same disconnect on different keg, try new disconnect on same keg, lube everything, replace o-rings... eliminate variables one by one and see if anything improves.

 

[Georgedgerton]

Usually a little lube on the o-ring (keg and/or disconnect) makes a big difference (not necessarily every time you disconnect / every day, but periodically).

I often have a small amount of spillage when removing a disconnect, so that might be building up on the keg post causing the disconnect to be a little more 'sticky'. Cold temp might also contribute to the issue. I have some newer low profile disconnects and find them quite tough to get off sometimes, though a little twist while lifting seems to help release.

There is an o-ring inside the disconnect (not when you disassemble, but within the bit that goes onto the keg) so might be worth a look there. Could also just be time to replace keg o-rings? I imagine if there's a little nick or something it may catch and make it hard to remove the disconnect (may not be able to see visibly).

As with any troubleshooting, try same disconnect on different keg, try new disconnect on same keg, lube everything, replace o-rings... eliminate variables one by one and see if anything improves.

I have even tried replacing O rings with each new clean and refill, still no good. I'm suspect that temperature also plays a part as I never seem to have issues getting them on or off when trialing with empty kegs that aren't cold. Thank for the response, appreciate it

 

[Georgedgerton]

I have the same issue at times. I've lubed the post which hasn't helped. I had one disconnect where the ball bearings all fell out trying to get it off. I just put it down to the general lack of quality and quality control that's evident in so many things these days. But, perhaps I should pull one apart and have a good look at it.

I also think QC is a potential problem. thanks

 

[Georgedgerton]

Are you putting a bit of lube on the Oring of the post before connecting?
Or maybe they're getting gummed up with old beer?

Putting lube on and definitely not getting gummed up with old beer

Are they the stainless variety by chance?

No plastic, and from what I have heard the stainless don't seem to be any better. But if that's wrong, please let me know

 

[Grok]

Possible temperature contraction difference of the materials involved making things a bit to tight when cold, try a quick hot air blast, or a little hot water over the disconnect before releasing.

 

[Grmblz]

I also think QC is a potential problem. thanks

Spot on, QC is the problem, BUT! so far the assumption appears to be the disconnects are at fault, but what about the posts? Are your kegs old pepsi/coke or the $99 shiny new chinese ones, if the latter then chances are the posts may be to blame, if the former then just get some DECENT! disconnects (German or US) if the latter then get DECENT! posts as well. Good engineering costs money, buy cheap stuff and you might get lucky, or not. I've got old (30yrs) kegs and disconnects from when cornies were used for dispensing soft drink syrups (their original use) and the only time they stick is through absolute neglect. My new cheap stuff proved so unreliable that I sold it on and went with German kegs and couplers. Not for everyone I understand, but if you pay Great Wall prices don't expect Toyota engineering.

 

[Georgedgerton]

Spot on, QC is the problem, BUT! so far the assumption appears to be the disconnects are at fault, but what about the posts? Are your kegs old pepsi/coke or the $99 shiny new chinese ones, if the latter then chances are the posts may be to blame, if the former then just get some DECENT! disconnects (German or US) if the latter then get DECENT! posts as well. Good engineering costs money, buy cheap stuff and you might get lucky, or not. I've got old (30yrs) kegs and disconnects from when cornies were used for dispensing soft drink syrups (their original use) and the only time they stick is through absolute neglect. My new cheap stuff proved so unreliable that I sold it on and went with German kegs and couplers. Not for everyone I understand, but if you pay Great Wall prices don't expect Toyota engineering.

Well put, I think that's the way to go, and yes the kegs are quite new

 

[golfandbrew]

The stainless disconnects are a bit trickier in my experience than the plastic but both work.

I had trouble with a post leaking a while back. Replaced the orings but still leaked. Got some of the German disconnects as well as new post orings from the US.

Tried the disconnect first but still leaked. Then the orings. The orings fixed the leak but were difficult to get off the post. They must be slightly bigger as I could see it was tearing after connecting disconnecting a few times. Eventually I went back to the cheap local orings and they worked just fine.

Likely was just a few bad orings in the beginning. All sorted now.

 

[TONY VAN DER ZANDEN]

You can also try putting Food Grade Grease on your post every few months, you don't need much, prevents O rings from dry out. I use on both the in & out posts. Fittings are easy to remove & replace.

 

[Droopy Brew]

Spot on, QC is the problem, BUT! so far the assumption appears to be the disconnects are at fault, but what about the posts? Are your kegs old pepsi/coke or the $99 shiny new chinese ones, if the latter then chances are the posts may be to blame, if the former then just get some DECENT! disconnects (German or US) if the latter then get DECENT! posts as well. Good engineering costs money, buy cheap stuff and you might get lucky, or not. I've got old (30yrs) kegs and disconnects from when cornies were used for dispensing soft drink syrups (their original use) and the only time they stick is through absolute neglect. My new cheap stuff proved so unreliable that I sold it on and went with German kegs and couplers. Not for everyone I understand, but if you pay Great Wall prices don't expect Toyota engineering.

I think this is on the money.
Have had similar issues with a very old SS disconnect that is faultless on my old Coca cola kegs but have serious issues on my kegland/kegking (can't recall which, not the point) kegmenter fittings. Will take the advice and replace the disconnect.