Copper Coil

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Yep as per Jake compression fittings but I use the copper olive inserts as shown. Plumber mate recommended them as being better to stand up to the heat and for food grade stuffs. Also they pull down for easy cleaning and repair IMO.

gallery_9761_435_22949.jpg


And one ready to go. You have to buy the copper inserts/olives separately only $0.50 or so. Not a big outlay in the scheme of things really.

gallery_9761_435_12057.jpg
 
SB they are really easy you just need 2 adjustable spanners to tighten them and some plumbers tape to seal the threads. They come in T sections, elbows, terminations basically what ever config you might need. Also the 20mm ball valves screw right in without any need for reducers etc.
 
SB they are really easy you just need 2 adjustable spanners to tighten them and some plumbers tape to seal the threads. They come in T sections, elbows, terminations basically what ever config you might need. Also the 20mm ball valves screw right in without any need for reducers etc.
Actually Ive used them before repairing hydraulics on trucks, but a looooong time back.
The brain cells storing this information have long since died... its like bloody deja vu looking at them now.
I had forgotten entirely they existed!
Damn rectal alien probe mind erasing devices! <_<
 
...brain cells storing this information have long since died... its like bloody deja vu looking at them now.
I had forgotten entirely they existed!
Damn rectal alien probe mind erasing devices! <_<

:lol:

EDIT: SB sorry if I was tad overly condecending you just never know what skills/experence ppl have on these forums.
 
This is what I used. It's a flare fitting from Reece with a hose connector from Bunnings screwed into it. Very neat.

2 x Reece part # 604060 - Comp Union Flared 6fi x 10c = $12.38 ea.

This is for a 3/8" pipe.

Then take these to Bunnings and look in the hose connector section, you'll find the other parts. Use brass ones, not plastic. About $2 ea.

A good flare tool will make things easy. I stuffed around for ages trying to flare the pipe with screwdrivers etc and then gave in and bought one.

flare_fitting.jpg
 
SB sorry if I was tad overly condecending you just never know what skills/experence ppl have on these forums.
Not at all... i came here looking for advice... happy to be taught how to suck eggs :icon_cheers:
 
Another question sorry crew do you use the soft or hard copper?
Do you just bring the other end up the middle or weld a elbow on & bring it up that way?cheers
 
Another question sorry crew do you use the soft or hard copper?
Do you just bring the other end up the middle or weld a elbow on & bring it up that way?cheers

Ok soft and hard refer to the method that the tube is formed or drawn from a die. I think what your asking is you want annealed copper, it's easier to work with bend etc. Err? I not sure what your asking in regards to welding/brazing elbow but compression/olive fittings require no brazing at all and seal incredibly well in any domestic application IMO.

Give more information on what your trying to do I will see if I can help ya! ;)
 
Another question sorry crew do you use the soft or hard copper?
Do you just bring the other end up the middle or weld a elbow on & bring it up that way?cheers
Yep, just bring it up and out the middle. Best not to have any joins inside the kettle at all..
 
This is what I used. It's a flare fitting from Reece with a hose connector from Bunnings screwed into it. Very neat.

2 x Reece part # 604060 - Comp Union Flared 6fi x 10c = $12.38 ea.

This is for a 3/8" pipe.

Then take these to Bunnings and look in the hose connector section, you'll find the other parts. Use brass ones, not plastic. About $2 ea.

A good flare tool will make things easy. I stuffed around for ages trying to flare the pipe with screwdrivers etc and then gave in and bought one.

Looks expensive

You could just get a double ended (click on type) hose joiner for $2, hacksaw it in half and silver solder the pieces directly on the ends of the pipe.

Easier to clean too :)
 
SB they are really easy you just need 2 adjustable spanners to tighten them and some plumbers tape to seal the threads. They come in T sections, elbows, terminations basically what ever config you might need. Also the 20mm ball valves screw right in without any need for reducers etc.


With compression fittings, you don't use any tape. If it is leaking, it hasn't been done up tight enough.

When you do it up properly, the olive will sort of bind with the tube. The nut will back off, but the olive will be firmly squeezed onto the tube and you can still undo the fitting :)
 
With compression fittings, you don't use any tape. If it is leaking, it hasn't been done up tight enough.

When you do it up properly, the olive will sort of bind with the tube. The nut will back off, but the olive will be firmly squeezed onto the tube and you can still undo the fitting :)

Meh!
Your right but just some extra insurance which usually floats my boat. It's easily removed when you do a major clean and tidy. Mainly use the tape when connecting the ball valves to the threaded rod thru the manifold as shown.

gallery_9761_435_45322.jpg
 
Now here is a thought for dicussion, when I initially posted this I was thinking about a dual system with one coil running through ice water and then speed chilling the wort.

I am now thinking that by the time I buy two coils and associated bits, garden hose etc, Craft brewers plate chiller @ $129.50 is startng to look good.

Thoughts??
 
Now here is a thought for dicussion, when I initially posted this I was thinking about a dual system with one coil running through ice water and then speed chilling the wort.

I am now thinking that by the time I buy two coils and associated bits, garden hose etc, Craft brewers plate chiller @ $129.50 is startng to look good.

Thoughts??

Plate chiller hands down NO contest. I got one myself and I do my hair in it's shineyness every morning. Seriously it's simple and no fuss, I can drop 22lt of 98C wort to 27C (tap water temp) in less than 15 mins. I just have a patience issue with getting the wort to 18C and or 10C so I can pitch.
 
Plate chiller hands down NO contest. I got one myself and I do my hair in it's shineyness every morning. Seriously it's simple and no fuss, I can drop 22lt of 98C wort to 27C (tap water temp) in less than 15 mins. I just have a patience issue with getting the wort to 18C and or 10C so I can pitch.


I use a plate chiller and can get 40lt work down to 30degrees in bout half hour. I then run through my HERMS which is filled with ice water and drop to 15.c. Works great

KHB
 
*puts on yoda voice again*
Hmmm.....the force....yes....strong in this one it is......
use the chiller plate O Beer One Kenobi......
and you can defeat the evil forces of Mega swill
:icon_cheers:
 

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