Coopers RIS three can

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Scorched_Dog

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I found this on the coopers website, do you think there could be any improvements before I have a go? Also I only have a 30 litre fermenter...problem?

1.7kg Coopers Stout
1.7kg Coopers Dark Ale
1.7kg Coopers Lager
1kg Coopers Dextrose (or table sugar)
Coopers Carbonation Drops
A Few Important Points:
- Fermentation activity is “volcanic” so be prepared. Ferment in the DIY Beer Kit vessel or a 40 to 60 litre vessel.
- If not using the DIY Beer kit vessel, a second vessel should be on hand for racking the brew on day 3 of the ferment, this can be a normal 30 litre fermenting vessel.
 
set up a blow off tube....do a search if need be.
 
I tried something very similar to this a few months ago. I used the coopers fermenter vessel which handled things quite well, no problem with foaming over. I didn't do any SG readings just let it ferment out, then bottled and only added one carb drop per bottle in-case fermentation hadn't completed.

I tried a bottle after three weeks and it had minimal carbonation, was quite sweet and syrupy. Some bottles still have minimal carbonation now, and given how sweet and syrupy the stout is I feel as though fermentation may have stalled in the fermenter.

Some of the bottles do seem to have much better pressure now, and after all, it is supposed to be a RIS, better left for years than weeks. Maybe I'll try another bottle tomorrow.

My notes are around somewhere, just cant find the atm, ferment temp would have been 18 to 21C, cans may have been "Irish Stout", "Stout" and "Lager"
 
Is there enough roast and malt character to cover up the "tin twang"?
 
Tropico said:
Some bottles still have minimal carbonation now, and given how sweet and syrupy the stout is I feel as though fermentation may have stalled in the fermenter.
Be careful, bottle bombs in glass are dangerous.
 
Tropico said:
Do you get "tin twang"?
On the lighter cans I can taste it (lagers, lighter ales), less so on the darker kits. I've always thought it's that the heavier/bigger beers disguise it.
 
Scorched_Dog said:
I found this on the coopers website, do you think there could be any improvements before I have a go? Also I only have a 30 litre fermenter...problem?
1.7kg Coopers Stout
1.7kg Coopers Dark Ale
1.7kg Coopers Lager
1kg Coopers Dextrose (or table sugar)
Coopers Carbonation Drops
A Few Important Points:
- Fermentation activity is “volcanic” so be prepared. Ferment in the DIY Beer Kit vessel or a 40 to 60 litre vessel.
- If not using the DIY Beer kit vessel, a second vessel should be on hand for racking the brew on day 3 of the ferment, this can be a normal 30 litre fermenting vessel.
Make sure you have plenty of yeast, and keep it as cool as you can. It'll get very warm once it starts to ferment.
 
Tropico said:
I tried something very similar to this a few months ago. I used the coopers fermenter vessel which handled things quite well, no problem with foaming over. I didn't do any SG readings just let it ferment out, then bottled and only added one carb drop per bottle in-case fermentation hadn't completed.

I tried a bottle after three weeks and it had minimal carbonation, was quite sweet and syrupy. Some bottles still have minimal carbonation now, and given how sweet and syrupy the stout is I feel as though fermentation may have stalled in the fermenter.

Some of the bottles do seem to have much better pressure now, and after all, it is supposed to be a RIS, better left for years than weeks. Maybe I'll try another bottle tomorrow.

My notes are around somewhere, just cant find the atm, ferment temp would have been 18 to 21C, cans may have been "Irish Stout", "Stout" and "Lager"
You don't say what or how much yeast you used.

What was your final gravity reading?
 
I have made this once and once only. Used US-05 in it and ended up with FG of 1.020 it went crazy for the first day or two then settled down.

After 1 month in the bottle tasted bloody horrible after 6 months the same after a year yes you guessed it.

Don't know why made the toucan stout and dark before and that was good.
 
I did this 2 years ago
21 liters
t/c irish stout
t/c heritage lage
dark ale
1.5 dex
3 t/c yeasts
3 coopers yeasts
sg 1.096 @ 21c
fg 1.024 @ 18c
bottled in stubs primed 1/4 teaspoon raw sugar
good drop
 
Well..

Extremely dangerous behaviour that..

Beers like that also could do with a fast ferment test and regular gravity readings.
 
Tropico said:
I rehydrated the three kit yeast packets as per the Coopers recipe on the website.

Didn't do a final gravity.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPzAuI9kRZI
 
I just made this one too. Got the final gravity to 1.020.
 
I'd be adding a 2 sachets of Nottingham in addition to the kit yeast. Ferment at 15 to minimize the krausen explosion. I don't trust the coopers yeast.

Edit. Maybe the Nottingham instead of the kit yeasts
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate your concern about bottle bombs. I had intended to bottle into glass, but as I didn't have any, so I used PET bottles (my bad) which I had on hand.

The first bottle I sampled (3 weeks ago) was still half full in the bar fridge, tasted it, was still good (not sick yet) and still had some carbonation, so today I warmed it up, decarbed it, and did a SG reading: 1025@18C. I guess the validity of this could be debated, but considering I used Irish Stout tin instead of Dark Ale, “Coopers” target FG about 1022, and the RIS style between 1018 and 1030, I think it seems OK.

I am sure that the more experienced brewers out there intuitively know where their fermentations are at, and really only use SG to confirm what they already know/feel.

I might sample another bottle later today.
 
Tropico said:
... so I used PET bottles (my bad) which I had on hand.
So glad to hear you did it in PET. I had images of you picking up a glass bottle and it going off like a grenade in your hand.

I would always do a final gravity reading. Especially if you say it tastes sweet and has stalled.
 
I consider myself reasonably experienced and the only gravity readings I do without fail (and will always do) are those before packaging/deciding to package.

Please don't pretend that not measuring the explosive potential of a brew makes you somehow more at one with your brewing.
Hydros are cheap, reliable and easy to use.
Even PET can explode

No 1025 doesn't seem unreasonable for that brew but for the sake of your eyes, please next time use the instrument you have to check.
 
i'm just a upstart compared to a lot on this site
but the use of a hydrometer whether it is accurate or not gives you a start and finish equals difference
it's too easy if you know roughly where it should finish
as mantle said a hydrometer cost about 12 bucks
its a no brainer
cheers
ken
 
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