Coopers Larger

[macneil29]

Hey guys have had my coopers larger in for over a week now.. and its sitting on 1020 i boiled a kit i got from my HBS and added 500g of brew sugar and 1kg of Light dried malt extract followed up by safale us - 05 yeast

now i have been noticing the temp strip go up to 26dC by itself.. like last sunday i cooked a bbq with the door open (was cold outside) and it went up i guess fermentation..

i took another hydro reading tonight it was at 1020 and has a very fruity flavor wiht a bit of acidity

should i continue with my larger i was thinking about putting the fermenter in a fridge i have for a week to clear it up as it is very pale..

Cheers,
Dion.

 

[manticle]

I think the basic coopers lager is technically an ale (and using an ale yeast makes it so anyway) but 26 is still higher than optimal. That may explain the fruitiness. That doesn't mean you will get a brew that's disgreeable to your palate necessarily.

However 1020 for a kit beer seems a bit high and there's no harm in waiting another week before you cold condition it.

Next time do the same thing but use a lager yeast (maybe saflager), let it sit outside or in an ice bath to get it somewhere between 7 and 12 degrees and note the difference.

The paleness is just the colour of the malt. Did you mean cloudy?

 

[ah_glenno]

if you can somehow put it in the fridge do it now, lagers are supposed to be brewed at around12C, although i heard somewhere that coopers "lager yeast" is actually an ale yeast. Either way you should get it down below 26C, below 20 at least

edit: beaten to it


also, dont stress about the strange taste, i cooked my first coopers lager at 27C (before i found this site) and it tasted like ass when it had been bottled for two weeks, but after 2 months it has lost some of its edge, still wont force it on anyone else though

 

[manticle]

PS: Lager.

Larger is when you brew a beer in a bigger fermenter.

 

[wambesi]

if you can somehow put it in the fridge do it now, lagers are supposed to be brewed at around12C, although i heard somewhere that coopers "lager yeast" is actually an ale yeast. Either way you should get it down below 26C, below 20 at least

If you do have a spare fridge you could throw it in there but DONT run it down below say 18 as you are using US-05 which is an american ale yeast not a lager yeast.
As it's been mentioned 26 is a bit high, ideally you want US-05 around the 18-20 mark.

All the coopers yeasts which with their cans are ale yeasts except for a couple - I can't recall them off the top oh my head, pretty sure a search will reveal them though.
Let it keep fermenting to bring that gravity down, if you can try and cool it down a little too.

 

[manticle]

With the exception of the basic 'coopers lager', most of the other coopers kits that come under the 'lager' category use an appropriate yeast. In this case, since the OP is using non-kit yeast that's probably irrelevant as you can make a lager out of any tin if you use the right yeast and ferment temp.

 

[ah_glenno]

With the exception of the basic 'coopers lager', most of the other coopers kits that come under the 'lager' category use an appropriate yeast. In this case, since the OP is using non-kit yeast that's probably irrelevant as you can make a lager out of any tin if you use the right yeast and ferment temp.

Oh yeh didnt see the part where he said he used the non coopers yeast

definitely get the temperature down though

 

[manticle]

S/he still used an ale yeast though.

Temp should drop from 26 but not to lager temps.

 

[chappo1970]

i boiled a kit

errr??? you boiled the kit? No hops additions? No adjuncts? High temps? Fruity could maybe be cidery, no?

Chappo

 

[paulwolf350]

errr??? you boiled the kit? No hops additions? No adjuncts? High temps? Fruity could maybe be cidery, no?

Chappo

unless boilked for an hour or more, to drive out the hops, it will be fine. However using us 05 at 26 will aquire some strange esters, need to get down to 20

Paul

 

[Eyelusion]

I'm fairly new to all this but why would you boil the kit at all if you were not adding any hops?
Is there a reason for this?

 

[muckey]

I'm fairly new to all this but why would you boil the kit at all if you were not adding any hops?
Is there a reason for this?

You dont need to boil the kit at all if you aren't going to add to it

 

[rclemmett]

I'm fairly new to all this but why would you boil the kit at all if you were not adding any hops?
Is there a reason for this?

You would boil it to sterilize the malt. Obviously the kit shouldn't need this, but there are other things that will come into contact with the malt that may not be properly sanitised... Can opener, stirring spoon etc. I don't boil kits, but I boil everything else as I am not confident in their sanitation. I then add the kit to the boiled extract/sugar at flameout and pasturise it for 10-15 mins.

 

[manticle]

It may also soften the malt inside. I doubt the OP means a 30 or 60 min boil. I could be mistaken. When I did KK I used to bring water to the boil, empty the can inside then fill it with hot water to get the remainder off. The extract would be boiled for a small amount of time while this took place but nowhere near long enough to do much.

 

[The Big Burper]

Evening all,



If you boil a kit, there is a small chance of HWO, Morgans states not to add their cans into water hotter than 70dC, probably for that reason.

Never mind, time will tell. If you get the old cardboard taste, you know what happened.

In the immortal words of J.P.

"You should not aerate when the wort is hot, or even warm. Aeration of hot wort will cause the oxygen to chemically bind to various wort compounds. Over time, these compounds will break down, freeing atomic oxygen back into the beer where it can oxidize the alcohols and hop compounds producing off-flavors and aromas like wet cardboard or sherry-like flavors. The generally accepted temperature cutoff for preventing hot wort oxidation is 80F."


cheers
Dave

 

[rclemmett]

If you boil a kit, there is a small chance of HWO, Morgans states not to add their cans into water hotter than 70dC, probably for that reason.

Boiling drives off oxygen...

 

[manticle]

It seems strange to me too. Wouldn't grain based wort be affected in exactly the same way if that were the case?

Morgan's possibly state that because if you overheat the kit you will change the flavour profile.

 

[AussieJosh]

Copopers kits do not need boiling!!!
Coopers (European Lager) Part of there International series comes with a LAGER YEAST, and should not be fermented above 21c. I have one on atm at 14c
Coopers Original series Lager comes with a ale/lager yeast combo...or just an ale yeast? not sure........anyway you can ferment that one in the 20s.

 

[rclemmett]

It seems strange to me too. Wouldn't grain based wort be affected in exactly the same way if that were the case?

Morgan's possibly state that because if you overheat the kit you will change the flavour profile.

I don't know what temp caramelisation begins but I'd assume it would be well over 100C, as for driving off aroma I thought most commercial beers were pasturised.

I'd hazard a guess that Morgan's advice has no scientific basis.

 

[rclemmett]

Copopers kits do not need boiling!!!
Coopers (European Lager) Part of there International series comes with a LAGER YEAST, and should not be fermented above 21c. I have one on atm at 14c
Coopers Original series Lager comes with a ale/lager yeast combo...or just an ale yeast? not sure........anyway you can ferment that one in the 20s.

You can do whatever you want Josh :icon_cheers: