Continuing Rant Thread - Get it Off Ya Chest here

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Checked mine against 2 different GPS systems. Out by maybe 2%. Quality German engineering...

But furthermore. I really don't care anyway.

The max allowable error is only 10% and it has to be on the low side. Someone is going to tailgate me for 10%? Really? Because I might be doing 100 instead of 110? And your 6% - at 110 that might mean a difference of 6.6 (on the low side). OMG! I might only be doing 103.4! I'm losing 3.6 whole minutes every hour! Panic! Floor it!

Really?
 
hehe no, I was just playing devil's advocate. I don't tailgate or flash my lights (I commute in a Honda Jazz, it wouldn't get the desired effect.. haha) I just drive so my speedo reads 116-117 in 110 zones...
 
shaunous said:
I service my diesel engine every 5k. and stick to the logbook with the rest of the vehicle.

Never worked on a jeep, but i know they do seem to love there sensors everywhere, cant help you out on that one P-Fool. If your paying someoen else to service your car, well yeh I can understand why you dont wanna do it so often. If you have the mechincal knowledge to homebrew you should be able to do a basic service on a jeep.
Yeah, I like figuring the thing out, at least the non-electronic bits. Getting to terms with wires too. Have been lacking a garage for years though, be nice to have one again and figure out how to service some of the stuff, at least the jeep is made fairly easy to pull apart.

Camo6 said:
If your cruise drops out, especially over bumps, I'd be having a look at your brake light switch or a fault in your trailer brake wiring or even globes. Does pressing 'resume' reinstate it or do you have to press the 'on' button again?
Agree the Toyo 4.2l is indestructable and best engine they ever made.
Most modern diesels are serviced every 15000kms now and while not ideal its a selling point I guess. But you don't see them doing 500,000 on original engines thats for sure.
Biggest killer on common rails is water in fuel. Kills the pump and injectors quickly and costs a small fortune to replace.
Crap, I did the trailer socket wiring recently :( all circuits tested fine. I basically bought an American hitch off amazon which came with American wiring loom, then I followed d-tec's wiring loom instructions to modify the loom to Australian wiring by also splicing the other side's signal in and another couple if small things. I'm confident I made good electrical connections. However I did choose the left turn/indicator to use the factory plug on rather than the right because of the space available on that side. ****. I'm gonna hate having to redo all that. Well, pita anyway. The cruise trips both while and while not towing a trailer.

Water traps hey. I'd have to look into it. Got a bad batch of fuel a couple of years ago from shell and it gave me no end of grief. ****** sensors in these things like to go off a LOT. Caltex and BP for diesel for me from here thanks.
 
I suppose I could test that by turning off the esp and see if cruise holds then!? Will try today.
 
Airgead said:
Checked mine against 2 different GPS systems. Out by maybe 2%. Quality German engineering...

But furthermore. I really don't care anyway.

The max allowable error is only 10% and it has to be on the low side. Someone is going to tailgate me for 10%? Really? Because I might be doing 100 instead of 110? And your 6% - at 110 that might mean a difference of 6.6 (on the low side). OMG! I might only be doing 103.4! I'm losing 3.6 whole minutes every hour! Panic! Floor it!

Really?
Quite friggin annoying when you keep having to drop cruise control again and again and again behind people... Yea, I'm spoilt.
 
If you can selftest it good chance there'll be a dtc to point you in the right direction. If it happens without a trailer your wiring should be ok. If you've got esp it must be relatively recent model yeah? The cruise will likely be electronically actuated through ECM so it should prompt a dtc if it faults. Tyre change shouldnt affect the cruise though if you put different sized tyres on and didnt change the vehicle parameters this can throw your speedo out. Not familiar with Jeeps but just throwing some ideas out there.
 
Ahh..the old Toyota v Nissan. Interesting. Toyota generally regarded as a better motor with 4.2 but Nissan had a better driveline. Toyato boxes are notorious for stripping the output shaft splines.

The Nussan 4.2 was good......but the 3.0.... Well you wouldnt even use it as a boat anchor.

Any....so I know a bloke with a series I Landrover....
 
Will do, didn't upgrade the tyres, didn't have the cash for new wheels and tyres so just got the same with a bit more tread left on em...

It's a 2011 model, just after they changed the bigger steering out for the smaller one and a bunch other plastics inside. Some under the hood changes too. To tell the truth this thing was a royal pita when I first bought it but I've managed to loosen every nut and bolt that could be worked loose off road and claimed warranty on a heap of stuff. It's only the electrical type things that bother me nowadays.
 
see if there is anything here that could be helpful: http://www.jeepproblems.com/

Related: one of SWMBO's clients has been battling jeep for a couple of years, it had electrical problems as soon as it left the showroom, it even lost power while on the highway a couple of times.
 
I really hate it when two cars have a bingle and have a combined damage bill of $12, but stick on the hazard lights to discuss the incident and examine the damage while the traffic is banked up for 3kms.

Move off the road morons.
 
pcmfisher said:
I really hate it when two cars have a bingle and have a combined damage bill of $12, but stick on the hazard lights to discuss the incident and examine the damage while the traffic is banked up for 3kms.

Move off the road morons.
Or here in Melbourne if there is an accident outbound on the freeway everyone inbound will slow down for a gawk which brings the traffic to a standstill for miles and miles. As soon as you pass the accident your back up to 100 kph.
 
I reckon driving for 18hrs a day & only eating from servo hotboxes would do it :D

doesn't quite explain the beard though.. hmm.. no good shaving mirrors at servos?
 
Liam_snorkel said:
see if there is anything here that could be helpful: http://www.jeepproblems.com/Related: one of SWMBO's clients has been battling jeep for a couple of years, it had electrical problems as soon as it left the showroom, it even lost power while on the highway a couple of times.
That's a great site! Thanks.

Googled it, people on the Internet reckon I should honk the horn! lol
 
Sounds like they might have dodgey clock springs then. That'll do it.
(Mods please feel free to remove sensitive material from my post)
 
Liam_snorkel said:
I reckon driving for 18hrs a day & only eating from servo hotboxes would do it :D

doesn't quite explain the beard though.. hmm.. no good shaving mirrors at servos?
Haven't been in a servo bathroom then...
 
shaunous said:
That is what heavy tailgating with the horn applied is for, in daytime. Nighttime my HID spotlights give them sunburn... I also hate dimwits who do this, driving between goldy and brissie for many years daily, you quickly stereotype, this one comes in hard with stupid frontbums...
I can be a little aggressive too if the driver in far right lane is just there because he enjoys driving in the right lane, sitting at the same speed as the guy to his left and "wont bloody move for anyone". BUT... If I'm doing 103 in the right lane because the other lanes are sitting on or below 100 and someone tailgates me like this because they don't have the patience to wait a minute or two until I've got an opportunity to merge back into the left lane, I simply take my foot off the accelerator. Because the left lane is generally so congested, I'm sometimes down to 40k or less before the tailgater has a chance to get around me. Makes my drive far more enjoyable because I know the guy behind is probably so enraged that their intimidation has no effect on me! If it's dark, I just flip my rear view mirror up and carry on.
 

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