Scooby Tha Newbie
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I love this thread,been wanting to try bry97 for ages. I will of course rehydrate then pitch. Got 60lts to get through first then it's bry time.
dammag said:A mangie old mutt who can't walk anymore :mellow: ?
I had thought something a little more passive agressive than these...manticle said:hamster or guinea pig
yes. in the only time i tried it, with no difference in process to my other brews, it stripped all hop character from the beer (39 IBU tasted like about 20). the beer also felt thin in the mouth. i won't be using it again in a hurrypat86 said:has anyone on AHB done a yeast comparison with a split batch or the same recipe for say US05 / Bry97 and WLP001?
interested to see if people here think the same as the Rebel brewing link who thought Bry97 gave a dryer/ thinner body. I don't think I can brew that consistently to tell the difference between yeasts unless they are polar opposites...
Yes and No.Foster said:Interesting thread.... has anyone pitched BRY 97 into a starter? If so, was still a slow starter when pitched into the fermie?
Cheers, Fozz
Thanks sup, It's been a looong day...have updated my post.verysupple said:I assume Foster can't actually access files from carnie's local HDD, so here's the link to that doc
http://www.danstaryeast.com/system/files/pdfs/tds-bry-97-american-west-coast-yeast-english.pdf?download=1
According to dry yeast manufacturers some dried yeasts dont need oxygen as well but I note that they never seem to list under what circumstances this oxygen is not needed.Foster said:Thanks for the replies guys. Interesting to note the "do not pitch into a starter". I have pitched Safale 04 & 05 into starters 48hours prior to pitching & both work well for me.
It says no such thing?carniebrew said:Foster, see section 4 of the instructions pdf: http://www.danstaryeast.com/system/files/pdfs/tds-bry-97-american-west-coast-yeast-english.pdf
Dry yeasts shouldn't be made up into starters, they're not designed for it. Either re-hydrate with water, or just sprinkle on top of your beer, depending on which deity you worship....
Bit harsh calling that "terrible advice", especially for a Moderator, but it seems yeast discussions evoke a lot of passion around this place.You generally don't want to make a starter for dry yeast. It is usually cheaper and easier to buy more dry yeast than it would be to make a starter. For dry yeasts, just do a proper rehydration in tap water; do not make a starter.
The status of moderator doesn't deny anyone their thoughts or opinions on AHB. They (we) maintain the same posting rights and rules as anyone else.carniebrew said:Bit harsh calling that "terrible advice", especially for a Moderator, but it seems yeast discussions evoke a lot of passion around this place.
Maybe a little harsh.carniebrew said:Bit harsh calling that "terrible advice",
You might be remembering different things and mashing them together. Dr. Cone said that pitching dry yeast (after rehydration) into a starter might not be the best thing for the yeast as they will use the glycogen reserves that they had when they were packaged. If you pitch into a starter they use those reserves and have to build them up again to reproduce in the actual batch of beer. I can't find the reference right now but will update this post if I find it.carniebrew said:The reference I can't find at the moment was about dry yeasts ability to 'bud'. Yeast reproduce asexually by budding, and I recall reading that there's a limit as to how many times they can do so. The thing I was reading was saying that dry yeast is prepared in such a way that a starter would quickly use up that limit, which is why it's recommended to use more re-hydrated dry yeast rather than a starter to increase cell count. I'll keep trying to find where I read that...and of course it could be just someone's opinion I'm regurgitating here.
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