Broken pump head

[mofox1]

So the plastic heads on the keg king pumps are a bit shite:


Not so keen now on having the ball valve connected directly to the pump, opening/closing the valve was what loosened the fitting, tightening up caused it to break.

Options:

• Buy a better pump with a SS head
  Pros: Shiny. More durable.
• Cons: Exy. ($70 vs $200+)

[*]Don't use a ball valve on the pump outlet. Controlling flow shouldn't be an issue as I'll have a ball valve on the herms coil inlet.

• Pros: Cheap. Pumps well enough.
• Cons: Plastic head breaks under strain.

Anything else to consider?

Stupid pumps.

 

[Yob]

Throttling the pump should be at exit not at inlet as I understand it.

 

[QldKev]

The valve at the inlet to the HX would be on the exit side of the pump, so all good.


I don't run any valves at the pump end for the fear of damaging the pump, plus you don't really need them there anyway. I'm pretty sure I read on here somewhere that KegKing sells replacement heads for the pumps.

 

[Tex083]

I only have LBP's as im happy with them and run on 12v so with limited power avilable to run HERMS and HLT (both electric) I find the 12v option the best. I dont need any more flow the FB only has a 9mm outlet so thats the limiting factor.

I throttle the pump for fly sparge and have the ball valve mounted on the side of my MT. That way the pump only has silicone hose attached and doesnt get moved much.
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/kettles-overview%C2 3rd pic is where I got my inspiration from.

 

[mofox1]

Throttling the pump should be at exit not at inlet as I understand it.

The valve at the inlet to the HX would be on the exit side of the pump, so all good.


I don't run any valves at the pump end for the fear of damaging the pump, plus you don't really need them there anyway. I'm pretty sure I read on here somewhere that KegKing sells replacement heads for the pumps.

@Yob - Yep, what Kev said... as usual, brevity is not my friend.

If KK sells replacement heads that would be great - will check during working hours. The idea of not using a valve on the pump is growing on me - after only 4 brews in on this rig, throttling at the pump end (near ground level), is a pain in the beer belly.

Need to swap over a couple of the bits and fittings though.

 

[Maheel]

use those bolts on the pump to make a mount for the valve

some disconnects and silcone hose between pump and valves etc

then it is also easy to remove parts for cleaning etc and keeps your pump away from those sorts of drama

 

[lael]

When I was down in Melbourne a couple of months ago I mentioned this to Kee at kegking. He said they are looking into getting a stainless head made. Might be worth voicing your support for the idea. I said $100 with a stainless head would be awesome.

 

[mofox1]

I only have LBP's as im happy with them and run on 12v so with limited power avilable to run HERMS and HLT (both electric) I find the 12v option the best. I dont need any more flow the FB only has a 9mm outlet so thats the limiting factor.

I throttle the pump for fly sparge and have the ball valve mounted on the side of my MT. That way the pump only has silicone hose attached and doesnt get moved much.
3rd pic is where I got my inspiration from.

Pics or it didn't happen!

Do you leave the hoses connected to the pump when not in use?

BTW (and OT!)- Saw your HLT sightglass in your gallery pics. How is the glass fixed into the SS elbow?

 

[Tex083]

I have updated my gallery to include all my secrets of brewing.
Not really just a pic or 2 of the MT HERMS and the hoses. The pump has 12mm hose tails on it and I take the hose off after each brew and hang them to dry. I only have 1 camlock connection I bought it from Brewhardware when I got my sight glass. They are a great price and the postage was the same as I was making an order anyway.

The sight glass is from brewhardware.com and its the bom! I love the stuff from there and will buy ALL my camlocks form there.

 

[mofox1]

I'm pretty sure I read on here somewhere that KegKing sells replacement heads for the pumps.

Confirmed - $25. Cheers for inspiring me to look, i figured a cheap pump like this would be a throw away unit.

When I was down in Melbourne a couple of months ago I mentioned this to Kee at kegking. He said they are looking into getting a stainless head made. Might be worth voicing your support for the idea. I said $100 with a stainless head would be awesome.

It's still in the "looking into" stage. The guy I spoke to said not until at least next year.

Until I can get a SS head, I'll be throttling at the MT return instead of at the pump so there is no repeat incident.

 

[the_dave]

Try using a two piece ball valve instead of a three piece, they're lighter so will put less stress on the pump.