Braumeister NEXTGEN Build

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yeha i like the look of hte bought ones..... and i could probably afford one, but where is the fun is just buying one?

I have a brewery that makes great beer, and i will use it till the Braumonster is complete.

cheers
 
Hi Guys,

I thought since some of you were looking at having PLC controllers that I would share some info about controllers that are commonly used in my industry.

The Click PLC from automationdirect.

They start at $69AUD for a really basic device, are expandable and as far as I am told, quite reliable.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overvi...rick)/PLC_Units

Let me know if any of you have used them or intend on using them. There is a bunch of info online about using these for PID.
 
Braumonster1152x1728.jpg

I'm thinking some insulation ala beerbelly,
mashtunoutside.gif


Might go down well :), might obscure the shiny tho
 
I can't quite tell if you are using Union Fittings in there already (I think it looks like I can see two? One horizontal and one vertical?). The BM's have these joining the pumps to the base of the pot and I can understand why they are useful.

I found 1/2" union fittings cheap on eBay (not the picture from eBay)


They are 1/2" NPT in 304 SS, $5.98 USD (including postage) from China. Here's the link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NPT-1-2-304-sta...=item1e6c3a6d32

Seppos want $10.35 + $7.12 post USD (obviously a higher grade of casting with the American ones though, they look prettier)


Yeha i like the look of hte bought ones..... and i could probably afford one, but where is the fun is just buying one?
Yeah I DID buy a big one but now want to build a little one for the fun of it! :lol:
 
I just used a camping mat (probaby should have sussed out clark rubber first, but it does the trick). Just remember that at such large volumes, it already takes a fair while for the wort to cool enough for the currents to disappate. Thick insulation will prolong this further. I'm currently trying to figure out how to make mine quicky removable - kind of regret my sight glass now, as that is the only obstacle. If I ever move to multi-vessle, my e-keggle (with sight guage) will become the HLT and my boil pot will NOT have a sight, but then again it probably won't have insulation either haha
 
Hi Guys,

I thought since some of you were looking at having PLC controllers that I would share some info about controllers that are commonly used in my industry.

The Click PLC from automationdirect.

They start at $69AUD for a really basic device, are expandable and as far as I am told, quite reliable.
http://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Overvi...rick)/PLC_Units

Let me know if any of you have used them or intend on using them. There is a bunch of info online about using these for PID.

I have been trolling the net for AB PLC's and working as a Control System Engineer..... i know what they cost. The ones on evilbay from china are well priced but im still up for $800+ for what i want. I have done some thinking and i do want to use PLC. but was going to start a search (having only ever used high end gear) for cheaper PLC's. These sound good.

Do you know what the programing software is like. I have the AB software and know it back to front which is why i wanted to go that way.

I'm thinking some insulation ala beerbelly,

Might go down well :), might obscure the shiny tho

I was thinking i may have some SS sheets cut and folded to make a square lagging box to go around the pot. fill the inside with insulation and it is still all shiney :)

I can't quite tell if you are using Union Fittings in there already (I think it looks like I can see two? One horizontal and one vertical?). The BM's have these joining the pumps to the base of the pot and I can understand why they are useful.

Yeah mate.... it has a SS barrel union at both points of the pump for easy removal. You dont need it often but when you do.... ALL PRAISE THE BARREL UNION :)
f
here is the new "tightarse" dome top for the Braumonster. cost $13 :p

now to find a 4 inch long flanged piece of SS tube about 3 inches dia to make a chimney, and boil efficiency will be improved a lot!

anyone know of a suitible item?

Braumonster_Dome.jpg
 
The star wars nerd in me is screaming for you to paint that up like R2D2.
 
Looks awesome Tony!
 
bahahah browndog I was just searching for an image for r2d2 to post because I thought the same thing


images.jpeg
 
R2D2.....hehe love it.....Buuuuuuuuuuuuut its not going to happen
 
How are you going to ensure the chimney stays put/seals at the outer edes during the boil? It looks as though its balancing there and could easily be knocked off/let steam through the sides.
 
Ahhhhhh you see the Ss mixing bowl is just sitting inside the pots lid at this stage. It will get a gasket and screw down, and will seal as good as the pot lid sits on the pot.

Im not interested in a preasure seal here..... just to close it off a bit to reduce power use.

How many micros have you seen with an open top kettle? you need a lot more power with the lid off.

Spidel wouldnt sell one for the origional unit ($450+) if it didnt work.

cheers

braumeister_50l_copper_hood_2.jpg
 
I'm certainly not disputing the function of a convex chimney! They definitely reduce power loss significantly, meaning a stronger boil for less kw/h. And with minimal condensate return (DMS) too. I was thinking of taking this path with my underpowered ekeggle, but thirstyboy kindly pointed out that floating a pie/cake tin on the surface of the wort achieves the same thing (but with zero condensation). I'd build a chimney still, bit rolling SS sheet would just just mean waiting longer before brewing again. Regarding sealing it, well all I meant was that just sitting there, the vigour of the boil may make it rattle and fall off or let excessive steam escape. A lid style seal bolted on is perfectly adequate as far as I'm concerned! Even not bolted would be fine with a gasket keeping it in place with friction resistance.
 
Back
Top